1:31
What Is a through Dovetail
10:40
Measure My Tail Board
36:03
Remember if You Don't Have that Plane or You Can't Do another Table Saw You Can Always Clamp that in Place and It Would Serve the Same Purpose It Would Give You that Little Wall That Helps To Reference those Two Pieces Set Your Cutter There Slide It Over and Then Hold It Right There Now if You Look over Here You'Ve Got You Should Have Twenty-Four Thousandths of an Inch of Material Right Here on this Side I'M GonNa Hold that Firm and We Use My Dovetail Marking Knife Now We Made this Knife Specifically for this New Technique
37:30
Putting the Saw the Sawtooth Blade Down into that Kerf It's Shaped like this So I Can Reach Right into that Back So I Go In Drop It Down Hold It Level and Then Pull It Out and the Reason I Do that Is if You Pick It Through like this There's a Chance You'Re GonNa Pull Pieces off the Front of Your Pin Board if You Lay It Flat So All the Teeth Engaged that Tends Not To Happen As Much
37:39
It Down Hold It Level and Then Pull It Out and the Reason I Do that Is if You Pick It Through like this There's a Chance You'Re GonNa Pull Pieces off the Front of Your Pin Board if You Lay It Flat So All the Teeth Engaged that Tends Not To Happen As Much Now I'M Doing the Third Tale the Same Way Don't Be Afraid To Do Multiple Passes the Deeper That Saw Kerf That We'Re Starting in the Pinboard Is the Easier It Will Be for the Next Procedure Alright So I Did the Right Side of each Tail Now To Do the Left Side What I Need To Do Is Move My Tail Board to My Right
38:25
Gauge on the Cutter on the Side of the Pin Board Don't Want It Wonky It's Got To Be Right On but It's Got To Be Low Enough so that the Tail Board Doesn't Bump It Now When I Slide this Over until It Engages the Head It Will Now Be Overhanging the Pin Board by One Saw Kerf Hold It Firmly and that's Going To Allow Me To Go to the Left Side Remember if We Move the Tail Board to the Right We Go to the Left Side of each Tail
38:44
Hold It Firmly and that's Going To Allow Me To Go to the Left Side Remember if We Move the Tail Board to the Right We Go to the Left Side of each Tail When We Move the Tail Board to the Left We Go to the Right Side of each Tail So Now I'M Going to the Left Side Reach Down or I Should Say Drop into the Corner and Then Lower It so that I'M Pulling It Parallel to the Top of the Pin Board Go to the Second One Notice Also That I Hold Up Close so that I'Ve Got a Little More Control You Can See by the Marks on My Jaw
39:45
Okay Now You'Ll Notice Also That I Have Not Removed the Waste yet that's Critical that It Stayed There because that Kerf Being the Exact Same as this Blade Prevents that from any Lateral Movement Now When We Take the Tail Board Off Instead of Lines To Try To Follow We Actually Have Saw Curves that the Saw Will Fit Right Down into this Makes It So Precise all We Need To Do Is Continue those Cuts from Where They Are and As Long as We Make Them Plumb this Joint Is Going To Work Perfectly but I'M Not Going To Do Anything to the Tail Board Just Yet Process this First Now I'M Going To Use My Dovetail Marker I'M Going To Turn It like this To Make It More of a Square and I'M Just Going To Draw Lines Down to My Gauge Line That Could Be a Little Bit Darker Try That Again Okay Now I'Ll Identify with an X or Something the Waste Portion Put this Back in the Vise
43:45
Because the Blade Is Twisted About Thirty Degrees a Horizontal Cut Keeps the Frame Up Here so You'Re Not Restricted At All So When You'Re Putting the Blade Down in the Kerf You'Ve Got To Bend It Over until It Drops Go to the Bottom Kind of Use that as a Way of Finding Level Come Up Just off the Bottom if You Turn Back this Way It'Ll Now Lock the Blade so It Doesn't Move Up and down It Allows You To Get It Started with a Little More Control I Always Try To Saw As Close to the Gauge
48:47
So You Want To Be Able To Apply that Force but It Has To Be Remain under Control I Always Work Front To Back if You Happen To Go Crazy At Least It's Going To Damage Something on the Inside Instead of the Immediate Show Side To Make Sure that There's no Debris Right in the Corners Make Sure that Socket or the Bottom of that Socket Is Flat It Can Be Slightly Undercut but no Bump and Depending on How Good of a Job You Do on Angling Your Chisel To Follow the Slope of the Pin Sometimes all of this Work Can Be Eliminated That's about the Only One That I Got About 95 %
51:22
You Got To Live with It So I'M GonNa Come In Here and Just in the Waste Using My Chisel Remember I Said Make this Marking Gauge Line Really Deep and that's the Primary Reason because What that Now Allows When I Come In with My Dovetail Saw I Can Set It Down against that Little Wall and I Can Tell because Right Now I Can Tell My Saw Is Not Perpendicular because I See a Gap at the Front Gap at the Back Get that in There so It Lays There Nice and Tight the Only Thing You'Re Left Doing Is Estimating Your Plumb Instead of Having To Do Two Things Which Is Start It Perpendicular
51:51
At the Back Get that in There so It Lays There Nice and Tight the Only Thing You'Re Left Doing Is Estimating Your Plumb Instead of Having To Do Two Things Which Is Start It Perpendicular and Make a Plumb Cut this Little Wall Does One of Them for You Again Lots of Back Pressure with My Opposite Hand so that while I'M Pushing It's under Control Set It in There Let It Find Its Sweet Spot Go for One Process Meaning Don't Purposely Cut Away from the Line and Then Have To Come Back In with a Chisel Aim
52:27
For One Process Meaning Don't Purposely Cut Away from the Line and Then Have To Come Back In with a Chisel Aim To Get It Right from the Saw Now I Cut into an Angled Corner Saw Cuts Square on the Bottom so if You Try To Get all of It Out with a Saw Cut You'Re GonNa End Up Cutting into Your Tail so There's Always Going To Be Just a Little Bit of Material Right There That Needs To Be Removed Always Best To Have Two Hands behind the Chisel Edge and Again It Allows Me To Anchor the Chisel with My Opposite Hand Up against the Piece I'M Working on
52:55
And Again It Allows Me To Anchor the Chisel with My Opposite Hand Up against the Piece I'M Working on Now Will Remove that Little Bit of Waste I'M Going To Use a Quarter Inch Chisel Starting on the Inside Always Holding It So I See Plumb Okay Get Rid of that Now Here You Really Don't Need To Do It I Do It More out of Habit I'Ve Already Got that Nice Wall That Was Created with this Skew Block Plane Which Would Give Plenty of Support to the Chisel
54:06
And that with the Chisel in the Scribe Line by the Time I Started To Encounter the Resistance from that Extra Waste I'Ve Got Enough Support over Here That I Don't Have To Worry about the Chisel Getting Pushed Back Now You'Re Going To Meet that Other Cut Somewhere in the Middle So Just Back Off with Your Taps as You Get Close You Don't Need To Go Blowing Out through the Bottom and Accidentally Take Out a Piece Now We'Re Getting Rid of Move the Waste Choke Ups You Have Lots of Control and Just Push Out that Waste and You Can Do this by Hand Holding It like this You Can Put It in the Vise
56:54
Now My One Exception to My Rule of Not Doing End Grain Is Right Over Here on these End Grain Shoulders Then Put that in Position Always Best To Start It by Hand First so that You'Re Not Pounding and It's Not Lined Up Then You Can Take Your Mallet Do It Evenly Meaning Don't Put One Side Together First You'Ve Got To Do It at the Same Time so that It Doesn't Split Now Just To Prevent that Glue from Splashing and if You Needed to You Can Come In with Your Block