Download "Высоковольтный блок питания размером с ладонь, сборка, устройство и всё это в корпусе от повербанка."

Загрузка на два бока. Националки. Развод с «платным» паркингом.

Загрузка на два бока. Националки. Развод с «платным» паркингом.

Channel: Вова из Польши

ХИТРЫЙ КУДРЯВЫЙ БОБ! (ПРОХОЖДЕНИЕ GTA 3 #3)

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Channel: Bulkin

Линейный Лабораторный блок питания. Своими руками

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Channel: Treicer100 Электроника без МК

ВПЕРВЫЕ ЗАПУСТИЛИ НОВЫЙ COUNTER STRIKE 2! МЫ В ШОКЕ ОТ SOURCE 2!

ВПЕРВЫЕ ЗАПУСТИЛИ НОВЫЙ COUNTER STRIKE 2! МЫ В ШОКЕ ОТ SOURCE 2!

Channel: Bulkin

Высокоэффективный линейный стабилизатор для литиевого аккумулятора с падением напряжения до 0 вольт

Высокоэффективный линейный стабилизатор для литиевого аккумулятора с падением напряжения до 0 вольт

Channel: Виктор Сочи

💥 НОВИНКА 2021 👉 70Mai DASH CAM M300 👈 ПОТОМОК ЛЕГЕНДАРНОГО 70Mai SMART DASH CAM 1S

💥 НОВИНКА 2021 👉 70Mai DASH CAM M300 👈 ПОТОМОК ЛЕГЕНДАРНОГО 70Mai SMART DASH CAM 1S

Channel: Китай в SHOPe

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00:00:02

ready; all that remains is to place the case; for

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this, we’ll take the case of the bank’s products and

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place the hole for the voltmeter and

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ammeter; we’ve already marked the stop and

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regulators for this;

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also from the sides,

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so we remove the square hole,

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the world is ready, we make another attachment, we make

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round holes for

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current and voltage regulators, like standing variable

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resistors,

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so we need to go a little more and

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also in the center we will do this, there will be a button

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for checking the voltage on the battery

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so you can look here the button is

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also suitable, I’ll do this turning it off and

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on for the power supply, I’ve

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already placed everything like this,

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then the voltmeter and

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ammeter are located, we check the anise comes in, and

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the ammeter is slightly redone with a protective

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LED so that the voltage does not

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exceed on the microcircuit, so I’ve connected it

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here, the signal goes through the resistance for

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measurements the idiot will absorb excessively high

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voltage up to 2 full volts,

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so we glue the device there, we

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decided to place the perimeter there, look for it diagonally,

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I correct it so that it is level,

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in general, this will be the arrangement of the

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devices and also the voltmeter and we glue it

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so that they look even, but we

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add them for a more durable installation.

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cube,

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now they will hold the stalinski

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firmly in the crypt, they carried out everything, everything turned out

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exactly like this, the thermo-glue is not needed yet,

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we remove its glue protrusions, cut off the glue protrusions with a knife and the

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glue came out, well, that’s how it turned out, let’s

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continue assembling the battery will

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stand here,

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the payment

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boosters will stand here, so

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the hole

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was made incorrectly and will have to I

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also

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modified the step-up converter and removed the trimming

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resistor, then how I brought it to the high-voltage

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part, the voltage regulation added

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a capacitance to avoid relay mode

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at the moment of current limitation, I [ __ ]

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the resistance in parallel with this,

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your 2 kilo-ohms, well, that’s a small one, and I

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added a kilo-ohm of ours to increase the

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output voltage, more details

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will be available look at the diagram for the

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Gini index at the link in the description, we will

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continue to sign for reference to

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make it easier, we will remove the old ends so that

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they do not interfere, we will add a resistance of 10

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kilo-ohms, which will limit the

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minimum voltage on the voltmeter,

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we soldered it and also added a diode

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from which the signal will come

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when limited current, we'll solder the end

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that will go to the control

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of the microcircuit, we'll also add one

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resistance of one kilo-ohm to

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reduce the signal coming from the

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current limit, so we'll solder this

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part, we'll figure it out, we'll cut off the extra ends

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that stick out and put it all down so

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that it doesn't get in the way

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here below it won’t interfere at all

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and will lie tightly, so we’ll continue so that

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high voltage will come

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from, but here’s the red high-voltage

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regulator that will then go to the

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microcircuits through it, we also solder

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the ammeter

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and the question is the second signal will go there around

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the perimeter, we’ll bite off the adjusting

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part, we can say it’s assembled

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so now the ends are extra,

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one voltmeter and an ammeter and I’ll cut them to the

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required length and start the fact that they are white, they don’t

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appear well, now you can connect

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the board, I’m also preparing for

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installation, so

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we’ll prepare the ends, we’ll cut and tin

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everything there, now I’ll connect it better, this is how it’s

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positioned, we’ll probably correct

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the end -the high-voltage end, that is, the

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signal to control the board as well, the

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voltmeter +

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and more Dmitry ammeter minus also

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the device is powered from the output from the

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standard output of the converter,

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having checked the power supply, we will make

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the minus output and also solder the plus,

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take the red wire, this is

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the high-voltage meter and

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from here output, well, all the main parts of the

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power supply have been made, now you can

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check

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in advance whether everything works, how

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the adjustment works and all the parameters,

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now let's check we'll supply 3 volts of

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current, call the section,

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we'll supply power from the turn on

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so 300 volts at the output 300 370 rpm is

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regulated at zero, practically the

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devices do not light up because the

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boost converter is not working

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okay, let's check under load now how

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everything works,

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turn it on, now the current is regulated, this is a new

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milliamp up to 33 milliamps and you can

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go out and add in general, the check was

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successful, everything is fine, the

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voltage and current are regulated now

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you can continue to refine it, so now let's run the

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conversation wire through

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the switch through a button that will

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show the voltage on the battery,

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if desired, we clean it, we cut off the low

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positions, we strip the wires, we set the

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buttons on fire, the voltage of the battery, like this, the

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second end of the button, we will apply

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voltage from the battery, and so on, with

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a pick, you can glue the board itself to its

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permanent location using hot glue,

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we align it

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so that the battery fits

00:09:02

so we wait until the glue cools down, all the glue has

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frozen, now we cut it high so that it is

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even, carefully cut it off noticeably and

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it turned out okay, but in reality there are a lot of

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holes with the help of a Dremel, here the button

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will be here to

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turn it on and off by doing the holes, we will

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also make two holes at once for the

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protective LEDs, that’s it 2 pieces

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because the voltage for someone will be

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42 volts when charged and one will do, it

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may not be enough 1 so they make a reserve, so we

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insert the blades, in principle it even

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holds without fastening and 2 then then

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100

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is ready now with fire the legs

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will not be connected in series and to the positive

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power will go through it, so we

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sing them in series and also bending them into

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plastic that held up better, then the input and

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output are

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now soldered high-voltage, the end

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goes to one diode and comes out

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from the second, so loading the leg of 2

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powerful diodes 025 with cotton wool, they

00:11:14

will calmly withstand the passing the current is 40

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milliamps of the mother, the wire can be laid

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under the regulator so that it doesn’t get in the way, like this

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we solder the negative data

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to the other side here on the minus of the output into

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one common one,

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but it’s more convenient just closer to the minus

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of the battery, now we put the switch, we

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leave it convenient, we clamp

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everything works when it’s the end of things

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plus, but to connect the battery to the other end to the

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bot, it will also be necessary to

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supply power to the power bank from plus 100 is

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suitable, so wire 2 is of course a button

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that will show the voltage on

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the battery, since now we will solder

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the minus where the cook of the bank from this side

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comes like this, minus now we will solder the

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positive end that goes to the

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battery switch battery from

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the minus plus minus to the cook cans

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baked plus which will also go

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to the battery here is one end soldered

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to the switch 2 you will go to the battery

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now the output end from the power supply

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is a plus and will not give 100 diodes and -1

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regulator just which end now we

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solder the ends of the bank and the power supply together, forget

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to connect the battery, before

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inserting the battery you need to

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fully check everything to make sure everything worked

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properly, for this we’ll connect

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the power supply again, let’s see how everything is

00:13:53

regulated, characteristics, at the same time

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we connect, we supply power, so it works, we’ll

00:14:06

turn down the voltage a little, we’ll connect

00:14:09

the load on the light bulbs, the current is adjusted, the shooting range raises the

00:14:18

voltage, the current also increases to

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thirty-five milliamps, the corpse turns on,

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the corpse is regulated, now

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let's try to change the

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supply voltage, we raise this is how a

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charged battery is made, 4 2

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tenths of a volt

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will work, the coat of arms will work, we reduce it, it works

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stably, T2 full volts, in general, it will

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discharge the battery,

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which is all well and good connect

00:15:01

the battery, disconnect minus this

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terrible battery has

00:15:07

been lying around for about three years, I think it will fit, checked it, it's

00:15:11

charging more than half, so I

00:15:12

decided to use it here,

00:15:17

now we're laying out the wires so as not to let them

00:15:19

stick out so that we can

00:15:21

close the lid, it looks

00:15:28

like it's fine, nothing really sticks out,

00:15:32

so let's check it larger for now don’t

00:15:38

close it turns on up by faith 5 usb

00:15:45

charging voltage is 43 on

00:15:50

the battery you show it so now

00:15:56

we’ll check then actually what

00:15:58

voltage

00:15:59

we press the device for an accurate measurement and

00:16:04

measure it

00:16:06

so it’s not too close here it’s up to 3.9

00:16:13

good here 4 2 now we’ll set it up exactly

00:16:19

what was shown there are adjustments on

00:16:22

the voltmeter it

00:16:27

shows 3.9, everything is fine, it

00:16:35

shows ninety-one percent of the charge,

00:16:39

so a man makes a cutout for the wires,

00:16:43

for example, here we do it for one and

00:16:50

for the second wire,

00:16:55

we close everything, we correct the wires, so there is

00:17:04

nothing interfering with the progress, it’s

00:17:08

ready, but you can also put on the ends of the wires

00:17:12

connect crocodiles for ease of

00:17:14

use and the device will be completely

00:17:17

ready before use and you can

00:17:20

check 100 diode matrices

00:17:22

transistors capacitors semiconductors,

00:17:25

or rather, find out the maximum permissible

00:17:28

voltage in which they can operate,

00:17:31

but more on this in the next video links

00:17:34

to purchasing such factory-

00:17:38

made devices in in China

00:17:40

there will also be links to other

00:17:42

components in the description, but for today, thanks for

00:17:45

watching

Description:

Собираем на основе преобразователя MT3608 с выходом до 500 вольт и током до 30 мА Купить вольтметры можно тут http://alii.pub/5nllf0 Корпус от повербанка - http://ali.pub/5hmlmc Преобразователь MT3608 - http://ali.pub/qn9wy Тестер, прибор TKDMR 0-330 - http://ali.pub/5fvb5b Видео с начальной доработкой- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjvyid3m2TY Схема доработанного преобразователя с регулировкой тока - https://zen.me/5msfa Пожалуйста присоединяйтесь к партнёрской программе, будем зарабатывать вместе https://epn.bz/ru - Вступайте в мою группу ВК - https://vk.com/club160760765 и телеграм канал - https://t.me/Viktorsoch - Все мои видео - https://www.youtube.com/user/viktor150368/videos?view=0&sort=dd&view_as=subscriber&flow=grid - Спасибо за просмотр, если остались вопросы, или есть дополнения, то пишите в комментариях, мне очень интересно ваше мнение. Подписывайтесь, буду рад новым зрителям!

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