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Download "This will Revolutionize my Shop Cabinets"

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  • ruRussian
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in this video I'm going to show you how
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I changed this cabinet from opening like
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this to opening like
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this this cabinet is my most used
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cabinet in the workshop and that's
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because it's got my Corless drills all
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my drill bits drivers and my most used
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Fasteners I like keeping those things in
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this cabinet because this is kind of the
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central part of my workshop and I spend
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most of my time in this area more often
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than not I find this cabinet door is
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open and that means I'm always running
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into it here it's in the way of the
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miter saw and when I want to close it
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usually there's stuff in the way here
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that I have to move it's just annoying
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all
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around now there's probably a lot of
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solutions to this problem like just
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moving my most used tools to a different
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location something more accessible or
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removing the cabinet door but that
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wouldn't be a very fun project and not a
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very interesting video so instead I've
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designed designed an overly engineered
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cabinet door that lifts vertically
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instead of swings horizontally like most
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cabinets I have a few goals for this
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project first the door needs to not be
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in the way when it's open to solve my
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main complaint it also needs to minimize
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impact to the storage inside the cabinet
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so I can still put stuff in
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there it needs to be easy to open and
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close because if it's not convenient
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then it'll be worse than it is now and
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lastly I want it to be able to revert to
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the original hinged door my shop is
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always evolving and I may end up moving
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this cabinet in the future so anything I
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add to the cabinet needs to be easily
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removable step one clear out everything
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in this
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cabinet
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[Music]
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[Music]
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[Music]
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I'm going to be using my CNC router to
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cut out the majority of the parts for
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this project a project like this one
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that has complex motion is best worked
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out on the computer first that means I
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have all the necessary files to also cut
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out the parts on the
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CNC these parts have lots of Curves and
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holes which make them perfect for
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cutting cutting out with the CNC
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router I've been trying out different
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ways to film cutting out Parts on the
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CNC and I am quite surprised that how
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well this dust shoe still works with a
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large section of the brush
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missing this dust shoe was originally
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just going to be used while filming but
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I've been using it all the time now
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because it's nice to keep an eye on
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what's happening at the
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bit
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[Music]
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[Music]
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to keep the Parts held down on the CNC I
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used tabs which I cleaned up using a
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handsaw and then on the router table
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with a flush trim
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[Applause]
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bit this is the first base plate for the
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lift mechanism and it's got the two
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pivot Points for the four bar linkage
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and the cut out where the gas spring is
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going to live and that fits inside the
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cabinet like this except I forgot to
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account for this strip of plywood and
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this strip of plywood in the back of the
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cabinet so it doesn't quite fit yet but
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I can knock those off on Vans
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saw nice I also cut out the left side
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which is just an exact mirror image of
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the
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right
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the link arms are also cut out with the
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CNC but for these parts I'm using nicer
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Baltic birch plywood I want these arms
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to be as strong as possible so I think
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this is the best choice for these parts
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without going to
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metal
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[Music]
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[Music]
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[Music]
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I finished cutting out all of the
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linkages on the CNC machine and now
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we're can start to see how this is going
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to come together we've got a lower link
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arm here a upper link arm that goes here
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and this link
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will attach to the cabinet door and
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connect these two arms and that'll
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create the four bar linkage and allow
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the cabinet door to open parallel to the
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cabinet to make these linkages work we
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need a axle at each one of these pivot
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Points and the first thing that comes to
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mind is using a t- nut and a shoulder
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bolt and by mounting the tnut to the
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back side of this base plate we can
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secure a shoulder bolt through it and
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that could provide an axle however these
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t-nuts are fairly small and they just
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pound in from the back and I don't think
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that that's going to be secure enough to
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stand up over time with this cabinet
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door opening and closing and so I want
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to make a larger version of a teut out
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of some 38 aluminum and here's an
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example of one that I've already made
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it's got the same threaded hole in the
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center but it's got three holes around
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the outside side and a larger footprint
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that will make fastening this to the
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base plate much more
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secure this is the first time that I've
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cut aluminum using the CNC router
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drilling holes is not too difficult but
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cutting is a different
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story you can see here that I used a v
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bit to Mark the outline of each te- nut
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so I can cut them down on the miter sawt
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first from the little little cutting
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I've done so far I've learned that it's
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a lot easier to cut around the perimeter
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of a part instead of plowing right
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through the middle so for these I'll cut
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them out individually before putting
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them back on the CNC to cut the outside
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shape this has been working really well
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for me and with each part I'm getting
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better and learning
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more
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[Music]
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[Music]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Applause]
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oh yeah he going to be way better than
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those little te-
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nuts
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look at
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that that works really well to help open
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and close the cabinet door with this
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linkage I'm going to be using this gas
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spring and that means I need a couple of
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mounting points here and here and I
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decided to make those out of aluminum as
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well just because there's going to be a
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lot of load on them and I want those to
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hold up especially with threads these
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are the ones that I cut out on the CNC
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already and they have a threaded hole at
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the end of them for the ball socket to
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thread on to and that attaches to the
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gas spring and then there's a couple of
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mounting holes for each one one of them
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goes on the lower arm and the other one
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will be mounted to the base plate and
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between those two points the gas spring
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can
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attach
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all right now if I designed everything
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in the computer right this in theory
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should
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retract hey look at
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that
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nice so the way I drew everything in the
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computer is that at the full extension
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the gas spring is almost all the way
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extended with a little bit more to go so
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that there is nice tension at the top
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the two linkages bottom out on each
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other at the top and that's what
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prevents it from going too far and on
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the
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retraction the gas spring actually over
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centers and starts extending the other
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way and that will help keep the cabinet
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door shut as now there's always a
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constant tension on it in the closed
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Direction One Thing I just noticed after
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assembling this is that the heads of
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these screws actually run into the edge
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of my base plate here and they prevent
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it from retracting AC ing all the way as
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you can see right there it hits but in
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reality the arm needs to go in a little
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bit further but that's not too bad of a
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fix I'll just drill out with a forcer
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bit at the drill press some clearance
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for the head of that
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screw
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I need to add spacers to The Backs side
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of each lift
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mechanism this will space the base plate
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away from the inside of the cabinet so
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that the link arms will clear the face
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frame of the
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[Applause]
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cabinet
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[Music]
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[Music]
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nice
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[Music]
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now that I've got both lift arms
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attached to the cabinet I've been
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thinking about how to mount the door and
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this is what I've come up with to make
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sure the arms are parallel and the
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correct distance from each other
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I'm going to tape some washers
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underneath the ends of the link arm arms
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and this is the same washer that is used
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at each pivot point and that'll ensure
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that these arms are parallel and being
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held away from the base plate the same
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distance
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I've also put a screw in on each side
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and that just allows me to open these
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lift arms just a little bit without them
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going all the way to the
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top these two arms are what's going to
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attach to the cabinet and I'm going to
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space them out with some wedges and
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that'll make sure that they're sticking
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out past the face frame of the cabinet
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so that I can line up
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the cabinet door to
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these okay after messing with some shim
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pieces you can see that this arm is
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sticking out just past the face frame of
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the
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cabinet to help position the cabinet I
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cut these two spacers and I'm going to
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tape these to the underside of the
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cabinet and that'll give me a reference
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point so that I can hang the cabinet on
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these and it'll be sitting in the
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correct
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height I've also already put pieces of
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tape here on the corners and that'll
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help me line up the cabinet left to
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right now that I've got the lift arms in
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place I'm going to use a method that's
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often used for hanging drawer fronts on
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drawers
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and that's using some blue tape on both
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the link arm and the back of the cabinet
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door with the blue tape here I can now
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go ahead and apply some super glue to to
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the link arms and then some accelerator
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to the cabinet door and then I'll press
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them in place and hold it until the uh
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super glue kicks
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over
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to make sure I don't poke out the front
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of the cabinet door with these screws I
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cut them to the right length as you can
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see here's the screw I started with and
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here's the one I cut so this one won't
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poke through the front and the other
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benefit of this screw is that I got rid
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of the first like four threads that
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don't really uh engage much wood anyway
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and since I'm only going in through 3/4
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of an inch of wood here it's nice that
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I'll have full threads into that 3/4
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inch thick and that should hold pretty
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good
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[Music]
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yes it
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works it
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works
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look at
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that it works great but it definitely
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needs a handle so I cut out a simple one
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out of some scrap Maple and I screwed it
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to the underside of the cabinet
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door I took it all apart again and
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painted the link arms red to match the
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rest of my shop projects and sprayed
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clear lacquer on the handle and some of
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the other wood parts and I even added a
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little graphic on the side just for
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fun it's always really cool to see an
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idea come to life and I'm really excited
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to start using this I think it's going
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to help solve my original problems plus
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it's just so fun to open and close I'm
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sure I'm going to enjoy using it if I
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were going to build this system again
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there's a couple of things I would do
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differently and one of those would be to
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address the amount of slop in the
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mechanism towards the bottom especially
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there's a little bit of wiggle room and
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that causes the arms to rub on the sides
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a little bit and it's just not as stiff
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as it could be I did my best using
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bushings and and accurately cut Parts
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but I might just be at the limit of the
00:23:02
wooden components I initially thought
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about adding cross members between these
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link arms but any crossmember here is
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just going to get in the way of stuff in
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the cabinet so I'd have to come up with
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something else there the other thing I
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would do and I probably still will in
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the future is to add a soft clothes on
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the bottom you can get uh cabinet
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plungers for retrofitting on two normal
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hinge cabinet doors that dampen the
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closing and I think that would help to
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um make this closing experience a little
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bit
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nicer I'm sure someone would point out
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how I've reduced the amount of space in
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my cabinet by adding these mechanisms
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and I have lost about 2 in on either
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side due to the mechanism uh but if you
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remember from the original shots in the
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beginning this cabinet wasn't terribly
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organized to begin with and there was a
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lot of wasted space so I'm going to take
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the opportunity now to build new
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organizers that fill this cabinet out
00:24:01
better and will actually be able to put
00:24:02
more stuff in than before even though I
00:24:05
have these lift mechanisms my basic
00:24:07
thought on how to do that is just to add
00:24:09
in some new side panels right next to
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the lift mechanisms and I'll be able to
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then build shelves and different
00:24:17
organizers off of the those new
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sidewalls but that'll have to be a
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project for another
00:24:26
time
00:24:29
thanks so much for watching and I'll
00:24:30
catch you in the next
00:24:34
project

Description:

In this video I over-engineer a solution to a problem I have with my shop cabinets. More info on my website: https://www.justindepewdesign.com/ Follow me on Instagram for more frequent project updates: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser

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