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  • ruRussian
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00:00:00
Hello everyone, Olya and my sewing channel
00:00:03
Today I want to show you the construction of a
00:00:06
basic pattern for the base with a one-piece
00:00:08
sleeve and darts, this is my personal
00:00:11
Development and I developed it only
00:00:14
because I do not have a standard figure
00:00:17
and standard formulas, the standard
00:00:19
construction does not fit my figure
00:00:23
the pattern is suitable for any type of figure
00:00:26
except for apple figures, however, if you have an
00:00:29
apple figure,
00:00:30
if you have a tummy and waist girth
00:00:32
greater than chest girth or hip girth,
00:00:36
my video on adjusting the
00:00:39
pattern for big girls will help you,
00:00:42
you will find it and much more in my paid
00:00:45
teleg channel sewing extension link
00:00:48
I will, of course, leave it in the description under
00:00:51
this video, this pattern will be the same
00:00:54
basic as I
00:00:58
drew before modifying modeling and sewing
00:01:01
various types of clothes dresses, blouses, sundresses,
00:01:05
sweatshirts, turtlenecks, sweatshirts and
00:01:08
even jackets, cardigans, coats and jackets.
00:01:12
So let's start, I will use a marker, I
00:01:15
advise you take a well-sharpened
00:01:17
pencil so that the lines and all the data are
00:01:21
more accurate. Please note if you
00:01:24
see my pencil lines, the back and
00:01:27
shelf are located in this way,
00:01:31
I save my paper. Well, my
00:01:33
paper is
00:01:35
not very wide.
00:01:37
Unfortunately, I didn’t find it in the store here
00:01:40
for the shelf, I had to
00:01:42
glue a little bit more piece so that
00:01:45
the shelf would fit in so that it would be a little
00:01:47
lower than the hips.
00:01:50
So, to
00:01:53
begin with, I draw a
00:01:56
horizontal arbitrary line, I
00:01:59
advise you to put it aside if you have enough
00:02:01
wide paper, I will now tell you what
00:02:05
width I have, I have 61 cm wide, that is here is
00:02:09
the width, the length I have there is 80 m in a roll, I was
00:02:12
just very lucky, very good
00:02:15
quality, the paper is really pure white without
00:02:18
cells. That is, it’s not graph paper, but
00:02:20
I don’t regret it. So, to begin with, I draw a
00:02:25
horizontal vertical line,
00:02:27
I advise you, of course, to at least
00:02:29
step back a little from the edge of the sheet like this I draw
00:02:32
arbitrary lines, that is, step back from the
00:02:36
edge of the sheet, just for
00:02:38
convenience, for my own convenience of
00:02:41
construction, I draw a repeated
00:02:44
vertical line, a horizontal line,
00:02:46
and here the intersection points I put the
00:02:48
point Zero from the Zero point horizontally,
00:02:52
I set aside 7 cm for my size,
00:02:57
I calculated this value like this,
00:03:00
about 6 P 1 cm How to correctly take your own
00:03:04
measurements yourself there is a separate
00:03:07
video in the same Telegram channel sewing
00:03:09
extension which I already mentioned
00:03:11
earlier there everything is shown and explained in detail,
00:03:19
they go deeper for me it’s 7 cm I divide by three
00:03:22
I get 2.3 Well 2.3 I just have a
00:03:26
thick marker, so for sure I’m more
00:03:30
unlikely to succeed. Now
00:03:32
look, I’m drawing a parallel line to the
00:03:36
top line. That’s how I
00:03:38
do it with a dotted line. Well, this is just for the beauty of the lines and
00:03:42
from the width of the neck, also like this, with a
00:03:45
dotted line, and now I’m drawing a corner like this,
00:03:49
that is corner,
00:03:58
wrap up
00:04:00
with the drawings, it doesn’t work out If someone is not
00:04:03
friendly, let’s say with a pencil, now from the
00:04:06
same point zero I set aside half the
00:04:09
width of the shoulders, for me this is 19 cm from this
00:04:14
point down, I set aside 2.5 cm, insert a
00:04:18
point 2.5 cm - this is standard value
00:04:22
if you have sloping shoulders, quite
00:04:25
low set aside 3 cm no more if
00:04:29
you have more straightened shoulders set aside 2
00:04:32
cm no less But still, I advise you to take
00:04:36
this average figure of 2.5 cm and when trying on
00:04:40
the layout When you take a sample for yourself you
00:04:44
you will understand what is where and how to change Well,
00:04:47
then Change Now look, I
00:04:50
draw through this point from the highest point of the
00:04:56
shoulder, I draw a straight line,
00:05:04
I draw a fairly long line
00:05:06
because this is like a continuation
00:05:08
of my sleeve, look here from the highest
00:05:10
point of the shoulder to the extreme point of the shoulder 12 cm
00:05:15
this is the width of my shoulder of one, I
00:05:18
transfer it to this new line, here it is, I have
00:05:23
a marking card, I’ll immediately set aside my 58 cm, this is
00:05:27
my length,
00:05:32
that is, here it is, I have a dot that
00:05:36
draws the length of the arm all at once
00:05:38
and now from the highest point of the shoulder down
00:05:43
I set aside the length of the back to the waist I don’t get
00:05:47
tired of repeating I have a very short
00:05:50
back 37 cm from the highest point of
00:05:53
the shoulder if I measure from the seventh
00:05:56
cervical vertebra I get a back of
00:05:59
34 cm I draw an arbitrary
00:06:03
horizontal waist line for now I want to dwell a little
00:06:07
on this point, that is, at the
00:06:10
length of the back at the waist if resort to the
00:06:14
advice of professionals, then my
00:06:17
waistline will drop much lower, that is, I won’t
00:06:20
have it here, but 6 cm lower. And
00:06:24
if, as the professionals advise,
00:06:27
my height is 160 cm divided by four, then
00:06:31
it will turn out from the seventh cervical vertebra, I
00:06:34
should measure 40 cm Well, let’s like this, the
00:06:37
seventh cervical vertebra is 3 cm from
00:06:40
point Zero, here is the point from this point, I
00:06:44
measure and my waist line goes
00:06:47
right here, that is, by how much 6
00:06:51
cm 6 cm and if I now build the
00:06:56
waist line right here, I will build all the darts
00:06:58
here, that is all the fit will be here
00:07:02
then when sewing some kind of
00:07:04
fitted jacket, for example, my waist will
00:07:07
spontaneously jump up to where it
00:07:09
belongs, the result will be either
00:07:12
a bag along the back or gathers here there
00:07:15
will be gathers because Well, in any
00:07:17
case, automatically my waist will jump
00:07:20
up so be careful this
00:07:23
the measurement is very important So you and I
00:07:27
have now found the waist line, the distance from above the
00:07:30
shoulder point to the waist line, I divide it exactly
00:07:33
in half, I get 18.5
00:07:36
cm, I draw the chest line Well, that is, this is not an
00:07:41
accurate 100% chest line for us It
00:07:45
will be needed for some calculations the
00:07:48
approximate chest line was also drawn
00:07:51
arbitrarily further from the waist line down.
00:07:55
I have already said that my
00:07:57
hip line is too short, that is, the
00:08:00
height of the hips is very small, but when
00:08:03
constructing a pattern, I never
00:08:05
measure the hips, here you need to
00:08:08
cheat a little, I
00:08:11
measure and never suffer from it
00:08:15
17 cm and again
00:08:20
I put it in the free
00:08:22
[music]
00:08:23
horizontal because I measure the
00:08:26
hips not 7-8 cm as I have a pofa and 17 cm
00:08:31
the pattern does not suffer and what it
00:08:35
covers sits on the figure as it should,
00:08:39
thereby also correcting my
00:08:41
non-standard figure Pay attention
00:08:44
to these two measurements, the length of the back to the waist and the
00:08:48
height of the hips. That is, if the length of the back
00:08:51
to the waist should be accurate, then the
00:08:53
height of the hips, we can always adjust the height of the hips.
00:08:56
Why do I take 17 cm? Well,
00:08:59
because I believe that, in my experience,
00:09:03
15 cm - this is the minimum height of the
00:09:06
hips
00:09:07
and it is well suited for those who are
00:09:12
short, that is, well, for those who are,
00:09:14
say, 150 tall 152 155 I am 160
00:09:19
tall and in my experience 17 cm is
00:09:23
the most optimal br height for me So let’s
00:09:27
complete our horizontal
00:09:29
line lines bottom, but I don’t seem to have the opportunity here
00:09:33
to extend the bottom line below Well, you can
00:09:37
take Here I have a maximum of 6.5 cm and it
00:09:40
will be at the edge of the sheet, I’ll take about 6
00:09:43
cm and I have somewhere around 0.5 like this
00:09:46
from the
00:09:47
bottom there will be my bottom line, that is, from the
00:09:50
edge of the sheet, my bottom line is also drawn
00:09:53
arbitrarily, it’s better, of course, to take a little
00:09:55
more Well, 10 cm 12 cm will be the most
00:10:01
Now you and I must decide what kind of
00:10:03
increase in freedom of fit We want I
00:10:07
always add 6 cm to the base in my opinion In
00:10:11
my opinion, this is the most optimal increase,
00:10:14
which in the future, when working with a pattern,
00:10:17
can easily be both reduced and increased. So
00:10:21
to the chest girth I add 6 cm by 4
00:10:24
since this is my pattern
00:10:28
1/4 example 98 cm I add
00:10:32
6 divided by four and I get 26 cm, that is,
00:10:36
from the center of the back along the chest line, I
00:10:39
set aside 26 cm, put
00:10:44
a dot, and so on I do the same with the
00:10:48
line of the hips; my hip circumference is 96 cm. I
00:10:52
already said less than the chest circumference by
00:10:54
2 cm, I add 6, divide otherwise I get 25
00:11:00
and 5, that is passing the waist line until we
00:11:03
touch it I
00:11:05
measure 25 and 5 I put
00:11:10
a dot now I need to Connect these two
00:11:14
points with a dotted
00:11:24
line Here you must understand that if
00:11:27
you have a difference between the chest girth and the
00:11:30
hip girth let's say you get it So
00:11:33
yes you have this line the
00:11:34
dotted line goes then it’s better for you to
00:11:38
draw a dotted line at a right angle from the chest line like this
00:11:42
and then fit it from this
00:11:45
line. Well, I
00:11:49
literally have a difference of 1 in half a
00:11:52
centimeter, even 1/4 in half a centimeter,
00:11:55
so for me it’s practically straight and
00:11:57
I will attach to do from this point How to
00:12:00
calculate how much to take for a
00:12:03
fitted on a waist dart for each
00:12:07
this value will be different for some the
00:12:09
difference will be up to 10 CMT for some up to
00:12:12
20 for some up to 30 for some even more
00:12:17
According my observations to
00:12:19
fit 10% of the total difference between the
00:12:24
chest circumference and waist circumference, let’s say
00:12:28
if this difference is 25 cm,
00:12:31
then to fit I take 2.5 cm from
00:12:36
this line along the waist line, I set aside
00:12:38
2.5 cm, I put a dot and I can feel free to
00:12:44
connect this point with the line of the hips with a
00:12:46
straight line and draw this line in a
00:12:50
straight line at a right angle like this
00:12:55
down from this point through the point This
00:12:59
one along the chest through this point I
00:13:02
again draw a temporary dotted line for now
00:13:06
why dotted Well, first of all, for so
00:13:08
that it is visible to you and secondly, so
00:13:11
that it does not bother me in the future.
00:13:14
That is, if it is dotted, then it is
00:13:16
temporary for me, then if necessary,
00:13:19
that is, again depending on the
00:13:20
difference between chest circumference and
00:13:23
waist circumference, and I remind you of this 25 cm,
00:13:26
if necessary, we can make an
00:13:29
additional inflow in the middle of the
00:13:32
back We can take 05 like this from
00:13:35
the middle of the back 1 cm by cm Well, half a cm
00:13:40
I think that this is the maximum value
00:13:43
Because if you take, say, 2
00:13:45
cm, then you will already have just ugly
00:13:48
pattern I connect this point with the
00:13:50
so-called bust line and with the hip line,
00:13:56
that is, the tide along the back
00:13:59
is ready. Now we need to determine
00:14:01
the location of our darts. I just
00:14:04
take now from the waist to go
00:14:20
through the center of my waist
00:14:24
dart. I
00:14:26
draw a
00:14:29
straight line through this point from the
00:14:32
hip line. up and a little higher I rise the
00:14:37
chest line for the upper top of the dart from the
00:14:40
waist line I put it up 22 cm I
00:14:45
put
00:14:47
a dot but depending on the height The upper
00:14:51
top of the dart can be from 20 to 24
00:14:56
cm I advise you to take the average number the same
00:15:00
as I do 22 cm and then When you again
00:15:04
sew a mock-up dart for yourself, you can
00:15:07
raise and lower the size of the bottom
00:15:10
top of the dart - this is very
00:15:12
individual, according to professionals.
00:15:14
The bottom top of the dart along the back should
00:15:17
be much lower than at the front, however, I do
00:15:20
n’t agree with this; for many figures,
00:15:23
this arrangement is really suitable But
00:15:25
not for mine. And if in fact the height of the hips is
00:15:29
within 10 cm or less, then the dart
00:15:34
should not exceed this height, I
00:15:37
set aside exactly 10
00:15:41
cm for myself, that is, look if I have the
00:15:45
widest place on the hips at 7-8 cm
00:15:51
Well, imagine I just add
00:15:53
2-3 cm for the dart, here it’s already on
00:15:57
the decline, that is, here it won’t hurt us, it won’t
00:15:59
steal anything, No, it won’t
00:16:02
raise anything, that is, here it wo
00:16:04
n’t hurt us, this dart is just the
00:16:07
most optimal And on the back I don’t
00:16:11
recommend making smaller darts, that
00:16:14
is, less of this value, but
00:16:18
it can be lower here. I’ve already said it
00:16:20
depends on the figure. The lower the hip line
00:16:23
is in fact, not exactly as you
00:16:26
draw on the drawing, but precisely in fact.
00:16:29
The lower. the line of the hips, the lower the dart is.
00:16:32
If your hips are high enough,
00:16:34
for example 20-25 cm, then of course
00:16:37
the dart along the back will be longer than along the
00:16:39
front. The lower peak of the dart along the back is
00:16:43
on average 12-16 cm. But it can
00:16:47
reach up to 18 cm, again when
00:16:50
trying on of your layout, you will understand whether
00:16:53
to increase your dart or shorten it.
00:16:56
Now I measure the remainder to my waist,
00:17:00
I get 22 cm. I have already measured it,
00:17:03
multiply it by four because I have 1/4 of
00:17:06
the pattern. And I get
00:17:08
88. I wrote down this number, then
00:17:12
I add 6 to the actual waist circumference.
00:17:15
cm increase, that is, for freedom I get
00:17:19
79 88, I take away 79 and I have
00:17:24
nine left, this is the remainder from the
00:17:27
fitted, divided into darts, for
00:17:30
myself, for darts on the back, I take 70% on the
00:17:33
shelf 30% That is, 9 centimeters I
00:17:38
multiply by 70%, I get
00:17:40
6, 3 I divide in half because I have two
00:17:43
halves of the back and I divide in half again
00:17:48
because I have two sides of the dart and the
00:17:50
result is
00:17:53
1.6 that is
00:17:55
1.6 I put 1.6 here and 1 on both sides of the center of the
00:18:00
dart ,6
00:18:08
here, by the way, the maximum full
00:18:11
dart solution is up to 4 cm, that is, from the edge
00:18:15
of the dart to the edge of the dart. Yes, this is
00:18:17
the size. This is the maximum
00:18:20
desirable distance to leave 4 cm. Well, if
00:18:23
let’s say 4.1 4.2, then it’s already allowed. But
00:18:26
if it’s more, then it’s desirable build a second
00:18:29
dart, your second dart will go
00:18:31
next to each other, let’s say from
00:18:34
this point from this point from the edge of the dart 3-4
00:18:38
cm if you have Depends on how much it
00:18:40
allows here Yes, the space and at this level we are already
00:18:44
building an additional dart, but
00:18:46
the additional dart We should have
00:18:48
less in solution and less That is, it
00:18:51
should be shorter in height and that is, both
00:18:54
at the top and at the bottom it should be smaller
00:18:57
on all sides, I have a dart, as I already
00:18:59
said, 315, that is, about 1.6 on
00:19:03
each side, I leave it That is, I
00:19:07
connect the drawn lines with the
00:19:22
tops, my dart is ready. By the way,
00:19:26
I want to add that
00:19:28
not for every figure you need to divide the
00:19:31
darts into 70 and 30%; for strongly overbending
00:19:35
figures, you can divide them into 80 and 20; for more
00:19:39
restrained figures, you can divide them
00:19:42
into 60 and 40; again, you will understand this and
00:19:47
be able to adjust when trying on
00:19:50
your layout So with the darts, everything
00:19:53
is clear, we move on to the sleeve, measure the
00:19:57
girth of the arm in its widest place, make the
00:20:00
desired increases and divide in half That
00:20:02
is, we have 1 second sleeve from this line.
00:20:07
You see, we have a dotted line
00:20:09
that goes from the fit line,
00:20:28
I add 6 cm just like for all the
00:20:32
girths, I divide in half I get 18, which means
00:20:35
along the dotted line down I set aside 18,
00:20:39
here is my point. She remembered her
00:20:42
cross and put the length of the arm. You and I have
00:20:45
already
00:20:47
measured it.
00:20:48
Now look from the bottom of the sleeve, this is where
00:20:51
I have. Bottom line of the sleeve. Bottom point.
00:20:56
Well, approximately at a right angle
00:20:58
I should measure the girth of the wrist, again
00:21:02
plus 6 cm, I make a 6 cm increase everywhere
00:21:06
by 2, I get 16 P 6 de 2 11 cm
00:21:13
That is, I put this point
00:21:14
approximately at an angle, I put it
00:21:16
approximately at a right
00:21:18
angle, you can do it like this
00:21:27
ruler, I put a dot. So now
00:21:30
I connect this point with this point where
00:21:32
we have the width, that is, the girth of the arm in
00:21:35
its widest part with an increase. Yes, I
00:21:39
also connect the bottom line. I need to
00:21:42
connect these lines in such a way
00:21:44
that my angles are as
00:21:47
equal as possible. maybe one
00:21:50
angle A is obtuse and the other is acute, or one
00:21:54
angle is straight and the other one will
00:21:57
turn out to be acute or obtuse, that is, they
00:22:00
should be visually as
00:22:02
identical as possible, again, when trying on the layout,
00:22:04
you can align all this now, you ca
00:22:07
n’t count down to a millimeter here
00:22:09
Well, Now we are completing our
00:22:12
back, in this
00:22:18
corner, from
00:22:26
the corner you can set aside 3 cm, I
00:22:29
set aside 2 cm, this is just the
00:22:32
minimum figure, the minimum value, and
00:22:35
from this point I
00:22:38
draw a smooth line to the sleeve to the sleeve line and to the Side line, and I draw a
00:22:43
concave line and the side line
00:22:46
completely ready, that is, from the bottom of the
00:22:48
sleeve through the armpit, the waist line, the
00:22:51
Peter line, and down, that is, the
00:22:53
side line is completely ready and, in principle,
00:22:56
the back We also have my back ready, the
00:23:01
main lines that are already final, I
00:23:03
just outlined bolder and
00:23:06
brighter with a marker, I hope you Apparently I
00:23:09
advise you too If you did it the same way
00:23:12
as I did with a marker or felt-tip pen, not a
00:23:14
pencil, then of course it’s better to
00:23:16
make it brighter. And in general, if you built a
00:23:20
pattern with a pencil, then it’s also better, of
00:23:23
course, to outline it with a thin marker so that the
00:23:25
pencil doesn’t wear off because
00:23:28
you will be using the pattern
00:23:30
constantly, the pencil can
00:23:32
wear off and of course, when you
00:23:34
copy this base even through tracing paper,
00:23:36
you will need the lines to be bright.
00:23:39
Well, let’s move on to our shelf in order
00:23:42
to calculate where we will have the center of
00:23:45
the shelf so that the sleeve does not interfere with us so that the pattern lays
00:23:48
down beautifully with the jack from the
00:23:51
edge of the sleeve. I’ll set aside about 5-10 cm. Well,
00:23:54
that is, again, how much
00:23:56
paper you have, set aside 3-4 cm, that’s up to
00:24:00
you, then from this point we
00:24:03
set aside our maximum girth from the
00:24:05
increase in work to 4. Well, add another
00:24:08
centimeter for convenience. Here’s an example
00:24:11
I start at a distance of 32 cm from the sleeve,
00:24:16
my hip circumference is 25 cm 25.5 Well, at
00:24:22
this level from the sleeve 22 32 cm, I draw a
00:24:31
vertical line and
00:24:47
bring the backs as close as possible, we just
00:24:49
drew it and we will build a shelf with
00:24:52
its help according to memory or we can always
00:24:55
turn to the drawing it is at hand,
00:24:58
that is, we have it On the same sheet
00:25:01
So the neck I
00:25:05
measure the same value 7 cm
00:25:09
I put a point A in depth to these 7 estimates I
00:25:13
add 2 cm I put a dot approximately
00:25:17
divide angle in half That is, I have 9
00:25:20
cm here. I roughly divide the angle in half and
00:25:22
set aside the same 9 cm. This is in order to
00:25:26
beautifully draw a
00:25:28
smooth line
00:25:31
of the neck, that is, this is how you can of course
00:25:33
here It was not de but 8 from to or 8 cm and
00:25:37
draw but for me I wanted it just
00:25:40
like on the back from point zero, I
00:25:43
set aside 19 cm, I put a dot and point
00:25:47
zero By the way, we have it here, where
00:25:49
these
00:25:51
main horizontal and vertical lines intersect,
00:25:54
here we have a Point But from this point down,
00:25:56
I immediately set aside 2 C5
00:25:59
cm while you put aside the same amount
00:26:02
as you put aside along
00:26:04
the back further through this
00:26:08
point I draw a dotted
00:26:14
line from above the point of the shoulder through this
00:26:18
point that I just put
00:26:20
while I draw a dotted
00:26:26
line
00:26:32
So now from the highest point of the shoulder down I
00:26:36
find the length of the shelf to the waist for me it’s
00:26:40
45
00:26:41
cm, I draw an arbitrary
00:26:47
line from the waist line down I set aside
00:26:51
17 cm for the hip line and
00:27:00
also draw an arbitrary line Well, here I’m
00:27:03
missing a little to the bottom line.
00:27:06
Maybe later I’ll glue a piece, a
00:27:08
small piece I glued, there’s not enough for
00:27:10
me there, on my back, in my opinion, 6
00:27:14
cm Yes, 6 cm and here I
00:27:17
only have 2
00:27:19
cm left. I think that it’s not so scary
00:27:22
either then I’ll add this piece or
00:27:25
I’ll
00:27:26
come when I work with this
00:27:28
pattern, I’ll extend it further on
00:27:31
tracing paper, now I’ll use my
00:27:34
back and
00:27:36
measure from above the point of the shoulder to the
00:27:40
chest line I get 18.5
00:27:43
cm OTR Here, in the same way, along the shelf from the
00:27:46
highest point of the shoulder down, mark 18 s to and
00:27:51
this will be my
00:27:55
chest line so
00:27:58
along the chest line I’m already
00:28:00
putting 26 cm from memory here for you
00:28:04
I put my number on the line of the hips, the same thing.
00:28:08
I have 25.5 cm, I put a dot, that is, I
00:28:12
repeat the chest girth plus the increase in size,
00:28:15
otherwise the girth of the hips plus the increase in size by 4,
00:28:20
then I connect these two points with a dotted line
00:28:26
while I
00:28:30
make the tide 2 according to the measurement. along the back 2 and
00:28:37
a half this point I immediately connect with the
00:28:40
line of the hips with a straight
00:28:43
line and continue to draw down, that is, as far
00:28:47
as you have there. I
00:28:49
only have 2 cm, then from this point through the
00:28:53
point of the
00:28:56
chest I draw a dotted
00:28:59
line until the very top to the very
00:29:03
top line of the temporary line of the sleeve
00:29:06
now
00:29:07
And along this dotted line like this from the
00:29:11
top line I set aside 1/4 of the difference
00:29:15
between the length of the back to the waist and the length of
00:29:17
the front to the waist I have a difference of 8 cm 1/4
00:29:21
is 2 cm Now through this point from above the
00:29:26
shoulder point that is, I connect this point
00:29:29
with a straight line to the highest point of the shoulder. And
00:29:33
by the way, we need to transfer the width of the
00:29:35
shoulders to this line, I have 12 cm here, I’m
00:29:39
transferring 12 cm and from this line I already
00:29:45
measure 58 cm, that is, from this point I
00:29:51
measure it is my
00:29:53
point And now I draw this point to the
00:29:58
bottom of the sleeve, again with a final straight
00:30:01
line
00:30:06
So we made a balance along the
00:30:09
shelf for a better fit, now I
00:30:12
remember the width of the arm Here I have
00:30:15
18 cm with an increase, that is, the girth of the arm at the
00:30:19
widest point plus an increase of
00:30:22
two for me it’s 18 cm. I’m not putting off
00:30:26
from the top dotted line, but from this
00:30:28
point I’m putting off 18 cm. This is my
00:30:33
point and then along the bottom of the sleeve from the bottom
00:30:39
point. From the length of the sleeve like this at a right
00:30:42
angle, I’m putting off 11 of my
00:30:45
centimeters, now I’m connecting two these
00:30:48
points are already a straight
00:30:51
line, so now it’s inconvenient to hold and
00:30:56
draw like this, I connect with a straight line and
00:30:59
at the bottom I draw And the connecting line like this
00:31:04
Well, that is, the bottom line and I roughly make it
00:31:06
so that my angles are
00:31:08
approximately the
00:31:10
same
00:31:12
further Also from the angle This is the angle I
00:31:15
get from the corner I set aside 2 cm,
00:31:18
connect it to this straight smooth line
00:31:21
and bring it to this dotted line
00:31:24
fitted like this, smoothly
00:31:29
draw this line like this, well, here, of course,
00:31:32
everything is more beautiful. Then I correct all this;
00:31:39
the most interesting construction of the bust
00:31:42
darts; for this, I will measure the segment according to
00:31:46
on the back from where my
00:31:50
sleeve width ends Here it is to the Waist Line along the
00:31:52
back I have 15
00:31:54
cm I measure the same segment here
00:31:58
I end with the sleeve width and to the
00:32:01
Waist Line I get 21 which as a
00:32:05
result we have that is look 21
00:32:08
subtract 15 we get 6 cm difference between the
00:32:14
length of the back to the waist and the length of the shelf
00:32:16
to the waist I have 8 cm 2 cm out of these eight
00:32:20
I have already put aside here for balance and
00:32:23
of course I have six left, that is, in
00:32:26
this way you can check yourself
00:32:29
whether you are calculating yours correctly
00:32:31
dart That is, I now need
00:32:33
to lay a chest dart of 6 cm for
00:32:37
convenience, you can from the waist line up Well, before
00:32:41
the curve, I
00:32:44
can measure about 16 cm like this,
00:32:48
approximately I will subtract 1
00:32:51
estimate so that my dart does not
00:32:54
fall right into the curve For a more
00:32:56
beautiful
00:32:58
and here it is, the beginning of the tuck Yes, here is
00:33:00
the point, then look, I set aside 6 cm the
00:33:05
tuck solution itself, I get
00:33:07
9 cm from the waist line, the dart begins, here it is,
00:33:10
my dart solution is 6 cm, that is, 6 cm
00:33:14
here 2 cm here in total
00:33:17
I have a difference of 8 see check yourself again
00:33:21
now from the highest point of the shoulder I find the
00:33:24
highest point of the chest I have it
00:33:27
just like that, it’s just
00:33:38
drawn in a separate
00:33:42
video on the Telegram channel sewing
00:33:45
extension, in principle, you don’t have
00:33:47
to use my video on the
00:33:49
Internet there are a lot of different videos on how to
00:33:51
take your measurements So Now you and I
00:33:54
can draw our dart. That is, I am
00:33:57
now connecting the center of this top of the
00:34:01
dart. I have just found the center, the center of
00:34:03
the chest, I am
00:34:05
connecting my own dart solution and
00:34:09
be sure to. I need to measure the
00:34:13
length of the dart solution. That is, I have
00:34:16
16 cm here, like this I’m checking here I’m
00:34:20
missing literally 0.5, I’m extending it here
00:34:23
and I’m just moving this semicircular line
00:34:26
smoothly here, this is what
00:34:29
I’ll glue later, maybe even now right away, I’ll
00:34:33
glue it up not for myself, but for
00:34:35
you so that you understand Yes, what in
00:34:38
general There should be a line here, I’ll
00:34:41
now remove these
00:34:44
points here so
00:34:48
that you can understand
00:34:51
Which Which line how everything is here in general
00:34:54
This is lined up what happens
00:34:59
so now draw
00:35:03
it out for me here it’s clear Yes
00:35:08
now, that is, these sides should
00:35:10
be identical Well, now we move on to the
00:35:13
waist darts along the front of many figures; the
00:35:17
waist dart on the shelf is, in principle, not
00:35:20
needed, but it’s up to you to decide. I have
00:35:23
2.7 left from the distribution of darts, that
00:35:26
is, from 9 cm
00:35:29
30% it will be 2.7 2.7 I divide by two
00:35:33
because I have two halves of the shelf
00:35:35
And I get 135 And I divide by two again
00:35:40
I get 07 But in order to draw
00:35:43
the dart, I draw the middle one from the center like this, directly
00:35:46
parallel to the line of the center of the shelf.
00:35:51
Well, I
00:35:53
’ll draw a dotted line like this because oh, the felt-tip pen is
00:35:55
very thick, I draw the central
00:35:58
line of the dart and now from the center in one
00:36:02
direction and the other I put it aside, well,
00:36:04
I got about 07 like this,
00:36:07
without without a measuring tape, it
00:36:11
will work out better this way, so I connect these
00:36:14
points to the top with the top top of my
00:36:18
dart and as for the bottom top
00:36:22
for the bottom top of the dart in front of the hips,
00:36:25
that is, not in fact, but according to the drawing.
00:36:30
That is, if I have 17
00:36:33
cm hip height according to the drawing, I divide by
00:36:36
five and I get approximately 3.5 cm
00:36:40
from the hip line up, I set aside 3 with
00:36:43
pono I will have this The lower top
00:36:45
of the dart I am finishing my
00:36:50
dart
00:36:55
are drawn
00:36:59
I will now glue this here I want to
00:37:02
remove it straight away to make beautiful lines
00:37:05
here a beautiful
00:37:06
connecting
00:37:08
point here in the center
00:37:12
So by the way, I purposefully do not deviate
00:37:15
from the Central point of the chest either down or
00:37:19
I bring the darts to the side strictly to this
00:37:23
point in order to make it more convenient to
00:37:26
further model the pattern and
00:37:28
transfer the darts to any point of our
00:37:31
pattern. By the way, I transferred my pattern
00:37:34
to a Blank Sheet. This is how it
00:37:35
looks for me. Now everything is neat
00:37:37
and tidy and now you can
00:37:39
use model add
00:37:41
change as I already said,
00:37:43
sew a lot, a lot of different interesting things Well, I
00:37:47
really hope that my construction and
00:37:49
explanation was clear to you And of
00:37:52
course useful Bye to everyone
00:37:55
See you again

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