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Table of contents
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Table of contents

0:00
Вступление
0:33
Отличие технологий FDM и SLA
1:55
Рекомендуемый: Ender-3 S1
4:37
Kingroon KP3S
5:26
Flying Bear Ghost 6
7:12
Филамент (пластик)
8:40
Сопла
10:25
Термобарьеры
11:20
Трубка PTFE
12:03
Термистор
13:03
Необходимые инструменты
14:31
Чего стоит избегать
19:30
Что делать дальше?
Video tags
|

Video tags

3д принтер
3д печать
3d printer
3d printing
3d принтер
3d печать
diy
Соркин
Сорокин
Дмитрий Соркин
Дмитрий Сорокин
какой принтер
купить принтер
обзор принтера
лучший принтер
лучшие принтеры
лучший 3d принтер
креалити
creality
ender-3
ender 3
ender3
эндер
эндер3
эндер-3
ender-3s1
ender-3 s1
kingroon
kingron
кингрун
кп3с
kp3s
kingroon kp3s
flyingbear
flying bear
flyingbear ghost 6
flying bear ghost 6
призрак летающего медведя
медведь шесть
Subtitles
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Subtitles

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  • ruRussian
Download
00:00:00
Hello everyone, this year the market for 3D
00:00:02
printers and upgrades for them has
00:00:04
changed a lot compared to the
00:00:06
previous one, so today I will try to
00:00:08
give as much information as possible in the shortest possible manner
00:00:10
about which 3D
00:00:12
printer parts and consumables are
00:00:14
generally worth buying and which ones, on the contrary, are not
00:00:16
worth spending your money on finances this will be a
00:00:18
significant part of this video the
00:00:20
sponsor of the video is a Russian manufacturer of
00:00:23
3D printers 3D diy.ru on their YouTube
00:00:26
channel you can find not only
00:00:27
good videos about 3D printing but also an
00:00:30
interesting interview, including with
00:00:31
me link in the description let's start with choosing a
00:00:35
3D printer in At home,
00:00:37
in principle, two technologies are used:
00:00:39
FD It is also FF and sla, if very
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briefly, for fdm materials their
00:00:45
characteristics are better than those of similar
00:00:47
photopolymer resins, the variety of properties
00:00:50
is wider and the cost is lower. Well, most
00:00:52
materials for FD are toxic, in contrast to
00:00:55
this, sala printers provide such
00:00:57
detail which VDM cannot even come close to
00:00:59
repeating, but at the same time,
00:01:01
most materials are either not very good in terms of
00:01:03
mechanical properties, are either expensive
00:01:05
or toxic, or generally a combination of
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any of these as a result for
00:01:10
technical equipment and large-scale art, the best VDM
00:01:12
for small-scale art. Well, like, for example,
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Wargame of bench modeling and so
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on, the best sat next, I wo
00:01:18
n’t talk about photopolymers at all,
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since even though they periodically print
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on them, well,
00:01:24
I haven’t tested current models; all the printers are old.
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So, what fdm printers to take,
00:01:29
unlike last year, a
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lot of changes in 3D printing actually happened this year
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events and a lot have appeared. Well,
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printers that are almost completely ready for use,
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so I won’t recommend models
00:01:40
that come purely as preparation for
00:01:42
some kind of upgrade. We’ll leave that to experienced
00:01:45
guys who, even without me, are muttering about
00:01:47
what to buy and how to
00:01:48
modify it later. I will
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only recommend those printers from which in principle,
00:01:53
it’s worth starting, in my opinion, the most
00:01:56
optimal printer for beginners this
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year is Ender. 31
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years before that, we manually modified the
00:02:02
excellent unpretentious mechanics of the old
00:02:05
Ender with all sorts of different Direct
00:02:07
extruder boards with quiet drivers
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and the like, and for years we waited for the
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Chinese to finally... they will admit that
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all this needs to be done Just from the factory just
00:02:16
like that, Ender 3s1 is just that, a
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normally modified
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Ender mechanic from the factory, in principle, ideal for a
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beginner, since although it does not print very
00:02:25
quickly, it is of high quality Quiet and most
00:02:28
importantly it is very difficult to break and very
00:02:30
easy and cheap to repair the extruder here it is
00:02:32
worth to the reality of Sprite a very cool
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extruder that prints with any
00:02:36
materials including the softest
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lastomeres Electronics after updating the
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Marlin firmware to version 2.1 acquired
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all the necessary algorithms and in general
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they work well there are the same
00:02:48
quiet ones driver additional ports you
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don’t need to change it, plus there is an attachment of
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sensors of the same level, a filament presence sensor, an
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adapter board on the head, and
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so on, the printer has three versions of NT, it’s
00:03:00
very simple, without additions, this is the
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optimal printer for beginners
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that I just talked about Ender
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3s1 Plus It’s also a good printer, it costs
00:03:09
more. But the print area is no longer 235 by
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235, but 300 by 300. If you need a
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large-sized printer, then in
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principle you can take it. But the Ender 3s1 Pro is a
00:03:20
scam, the pro version costs
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$100 more than the usual one, and
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only the really useful parts differ one that
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costs 10 dollars which can be
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bought separately, everything else is
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useless garbage, not a single professional
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will buy this. And accordingly, I do
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n’t advise you to fall for this scam for
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upgrades; in principle, there’s nothing special to say
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since the printer is almost
00:03:44
completely ready for use.
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The only thing that definitely needs to be
00:03:47
done to reflash it, it doesn’t require
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any additional hardware, you just
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put the firmware file on a flash drive and
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everything is free; from what is not mandatory but
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improves the quality of life, I can
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recommend a bimetallic thermal barrier
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for 10 bucks, it will make it possible to heat the
00:04:02
hatend above 260 degrees. That is,
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print a large amount of materials,
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by the way, this particular thermal barrier and
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is the only significant difference between the
00:04:09
pro version and the regular one; it would also be nice to
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take a hardened steel nozzle coupled
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with a bimetallic neck, it will make it
00:04:16
possible to print with composite
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materials. Well, the cooling system of the
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model with two 50 15 fans is
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inexpensive and easy to install, but allows you not to
00:04:26
experience a lack of airflow in
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principle any printing modes available to
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this printer, I repeat, this is all not
00:04:33
necessary, but most likely, once you start
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printing, you will want to buy everything in addition. If you
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really don’t have enough money and one is missing for VAT,
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then the normal option would be to buy a
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kangarung p3s printer, it’s really very
00:04:44
cheap without discounts, about 12 thousand
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rubles, and with sometimes you can get it at discounts of less than
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a dozen, but of course its
00:04:51
quality is not ideal, you
00:04:52
will have to put a little effort
00:04:55
here and there, but overall this is a clear
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model for the money, it does not have
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mechanics, it is capable of printing with good
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quality and is not particularly noisy; the
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Direct extruder is solid. It prints
00:05:06
perfectly with materials, but for flexible ones it will need
00:05:08
a little modification. The electronics in general are not
00:05:10
bad; everything basic works as it should
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and will not have to be changed over time, that is,
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in general, this is a quite functional
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unit that is well suited for a beginner to
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master 3D printing and even for experienced
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guys like some for example, an
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auxiliary printer works
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fine Well, I know that they will ask,
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I’ll tell you about Flynberg Voice 6
00:05:30
behind me, unfortunately this option is
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more likely to be a deep modification than
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for use in its original form,
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I’ll talk about this in detail in the review
00:05:39
that will be in a couple of weeks
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Subscribe so you don't miss it And
00:05:43
now just briefly Electronics
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compared to Ender 3s1 plus minus
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equally normal
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no mechanics stand out from the printers the bear is better
00:05:51
but not very much if the
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Sander extruders were the same then the Bear would
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be about 10-15 percent higher faster
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The problem is that the bear’s extruder is
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not even close to the same as Ender’s, it’s
00:06:04
right on the verge of acceptable and with lastomeres,
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unlike Endra, Bear
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can’t print stands at all because the gaps
00:06:10
will burn, plus they are very long, which means
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long rollbacks and, as a result, Bear is in circles
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not faster than Ender at almost the
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same price, worse configuration, smaller
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print area and the inability to
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print with elastomers, I don’t want to say
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that Bear 6 is some kind of really bad
00:06:28
choice, that you should never
00:06:29
buy it, no, you
00:06:31
can’t buy it. learn and print with
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parts made from hard materials, but the
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real meaning in it appears only
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when the extruder is completely replaced and when
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transferred to advanced firmware clipper.
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Which requires additional hardware
00:06:44
that you will have to buy
00:06:45
naturally with your own money, then and
00:06:47
only then it will print faster.
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Similarly, the truth is A in stock or in a not
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very deeply upgraded form, it is
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worse and is worse for beginners,
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however, if you still decide not to
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listen to me, take that flying
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bear ghost, then do it. It’s only from a
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Russian warehouse from China that the printer
00:07:05
took three months to get to the sale.
00:07:07
For example, it took me three months, and during
00:07:09
a sale it can all happen even longer.
00:07:12
Okay with the choice of printers. I hope everything
00:07:15
is clear, but besides them, you still need to buy
00:07:17
consumables and basic spare parts for
00:07:19
servicing the printer. Don’t be afraid
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to cheat you out of money; no one is
00:07:23
going to recommend it; I’ll only recommend that
00:07:25
what do you really need first filament let's
00:07:28
start with it a common mistake is to buy a
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ton of material at once and then realize that
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you don’t need most of all different types
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in principle, so for
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beginners I advise you to buy no more than two
00:07:40
spools of 5G plastic and not touch the
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other types this the filament costs little,
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has good strength characteristics
00:07:46
and is easy to print. So in general, this is an
00:07:49
excellent option both for learning and
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then for printing working parts from it.
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If your hands are really itching to buy
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several types, try different ones, then I
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recommend buying another spool of
00:07:59
some kind Composite and ABS type carbon
00:08:01
15 fdp layer it costs little
00:08:04
heat resistance high printing is easy
00:08:06
Just don’t forget that composites require a
00:08:09
bimetallic or all-metal
00:08:10
neck and a hardened steel nozzle Well,
00:08:13
we’ll talk about that a little later Regarding
00:08:15
filament manufacturers Here, each
00:08:17
printer has his own preferences, but
00:08:19
Personally, I print mostly with plastic from
00:08:21
Autoplast because they are cheap, the
00:08:23
quality is normal. Well, if I want to make a splash, then
00:08:25
I take plastic esan composites, mostly
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I take lunar Print, these are not the only
00:08:30
good manufacturers, there are a lot of
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others, but I personally like these ones
00:08:36
and for myself I buy mostly plastics from
00:08:39
these companies also One consumable
00:08:41
that you must buy for your printer
00:08:43
will be the nozzle, here there is also a typical
00:08:45
mistake among beginners: they buy a set of
00:08:47
all diameters at once so that they don’t hurt their pockets,
00:08:50
they take the cheapest ones, some kind of
00:08:51
shitty ones, you don’t need to do this through a
00:08:54
0.4 mm nozzle, you can easily print lines with a
00:08:57
width of 0, 3 mm without significant effects
00:09:00
Therefore, it is better to buy one high-quality
00:09:02
nozzle 04 or 0.5 mm than a scattering of the
00:09:06
cheapest material [ __ ] for conventional
00:09:08
filaments: brass for composites,
00:09:10
hardened steel, other materials, in
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particular, for example, Titanium, non-hardened
00:09:16
steel, stainless steel, some nickel-plated
00:09:18
copper, and so on. definitely not
00:09:20
needed, even if you really want it, it’s
00:09:22
still not needed due to wear. Brass when
00:09:24
printing with non-composite materials lasts
00:09:26
about two years during normal use.
00:09:28
Good hardened steel
00:09:30
hardly wears out when printing with composites, so
00:09:33
take several nozzles at once and think
00:09:35
that they will be there they will often wear out, they
00:09:36
will need to be constantly changed, it is not worth the
00:09:39
form factor for the Ender 3s1 of any version
00:09:42
and for the Bear 6 Mark 8 nozzles are suitable,
00:09:45
they can be thicker or thinner but
00:09:47
the thread and length are the same So they are
00:09:49
interchangeable for the kengunka PTS in stock they
00:09:52
also come with the same Nori nozzles I don’t recommend
00:09:55
taking it. The thing is that they’ve
00:09:57
generally screwed up the hatend, so I
00:10:00
recommend that you either sit out on stock
00:10:02
completely. If you don’t have any money at all, or
00:10:04
replace the entire hatend with normal
00:10:07
3D V6 nozzles, of course, they will also become e3d
00:10:10
V6 in terms of form factor and quality, there are two the
00:10:13
normal manufacturer from whom everyone
00:10:15
takes nozzles is Triangle Lab and chalk from
00:10:17
other manufacturers is not recommended
00:10:20
because the savings in money are insignificant and the
00:10:22
quality will either be simply worse or
00:10:24
even worse regarding thermal barriers at the
00:10:27
beginning of the video, I recommended a bimetallic
00:10:29
thermal barrier for Ender 3s-1 and so for
00:10:32
other printers this advice remains
00:10:33
relevant since this type of throat
00:10:35
allows their shade to be heated as much as desired
00:10:37
and reduces rollbacks, that is, makes
00:10:40
printing a little faster in terms of form factor.
00:10:42
There are many options and general
00:10:44
recommendations will be clarified with
00:10:46
someone who knows which throat goes to
00:10:48
which hotend. do it
00:10:49
for example in my Telegram chat But for the
00:10:52
printers recommended in this video,
00:10:54
I will still give information for the Ender 3 C1,
00:10:57
as well as for other printers using the
00:10:59
Reality Sprite extra, it has its own
00:11:01
throat that is not suitable for other printers;
00:11:03
for a bear, the throat of the Chimera type is suitable.
00:11:06
Don’t look at how it’s a little shorter than
00:11:08
the stock one is still attached with
00:11:09
set screws at any height.
00:11:11
Which one will you need for the kengunka PTS
00:11:14
as I already said, the only point is to
00:11:16
replace the entire hotendo with an e3d V6
00:11:19
Well, in conclusion, it is advisable to
00:11:21
buy a couple of useful little things for the printer
00:11:23
that can save a fairly large
00:11:25
the amount of time, in principle, for any
00:11:27
printer it is worth buying two or three meters of a
00:11:30
regular PTFE tube 2 by 4 mm costs It costs
00:11:33
100 rubles per meter, that is, it
00:11:36
will not hit the family budget at all, but at the same time
00:11:38
it is very often needed Well, for example, for
00:11:41
all those recommended in In this video of
00:11:42
stock printers, just
00:11:45
such a tube is used inside the extruder, and if
00:11:48
you mess up the standard piece of tube. And
00:11:50
beginners do this very often, then they
00:11:52
will need a replacement, plus the tube can
00:11:55
be used to collect filament from a
00:11:57
spool or dryer, for example, and therefore
00:12:00
it is better to buy it all at once with the printer
00:12:01
let it lie, fortunately it costs a penny, a spare
00:12:04
thermistor of the form actually has two and a
00:12:07
half pieces of glass in the sleeve and a piece of glass
00:12:09
in the pseudo-kilde, you definitely need to
00:12:12
take a spare piece of glass, they often die, especially for
00:12:15
beginners. Of the recommended printers, this type of thermistor
00:12:17
is only available in the
00:12:19
PTS kangaroo, but I repeat for the third time
00:12:22
there I recommend replacing it completely haten and
00:12:25
putting a hitblock under the thermistor in the
00:12:27
sleeve is not difficult, but it will immediately solve a
00:12:29
bunch of problems. Actually, the thermistors in the
00:12:32
sleeve rarely die and you do
00:12:34
n’t have to take a spare one, for example it’s on the
00:12:37
Ender 3s1, there’s no need to buy anything in addition.
00:12:39
Well, there are pseudo-sleeve
00:12:42
options like on bear with a pole when
00:12:44
just an ordinary piece of glass is inserted into a
00:12:46
metal sleeve with pliers and
00:12:47
squeezed near the base. This option
00:12:50
dies no less often than glass pieces, so in
00:12:53
general it’s worth taking a normal thermistor in reserve.
00:12:55
But not the same
00:12:57
pseudo-sleeve, but a normal
00:12:58
sleeved one, and when the pseudo-sleeve
00:13:01
of the stand fails then only I
00:13:03
also recommend getting
00:13:05
some tools that will
00:13:07
greatly help in operating the
00:13:08
printer, maintaining the printer, spatulas, wire cutters
00:13:11
are included with almost every
00:13:13
model, so you don’t need to buy them in advance,
00:13:15
but you should definitely buy
00:13:18
tweezers to remove the plastic spools. From the
00:13:21
hot nozzle before printing, you also need to
00:13:24
buy two nuts key
00:13:26
first This is in order to unscrew
00:13:29
the nozzle, at least you need to have one
00:13:32
spanner for convenience, you can also take the head for the
00:13:34
screwdriver in size for a thin
00:13:37
nozzle Mark 86 mm for a Thick nozzle 8 mm and for an
00:13:41
E3 dv6 or a volcano 7 mm The second is to
00:13:45
hold the red-hot hitblock during the
00:13:47
change nozzles, it would be best to buy a
00:13:49
small adjustable wrench, this can be used to
00:13:51
grab any hitblock Yes, and in general, a
00:13:54
useful thing in the household quite often
00:13:55
comes in handy, you can buy it all at any
00:13:58
construction or store or at the
00:14:01
construction market near your
00:14:02
home with AliExpress, you don’t need to buy anything
00:14:04
like that It’s worth it there take another
00:14:07
bottle of solvent to wipe
00:14:09
the table and Litol 24 lubricant from vendors, it is
00:14:12
used to lubricate the lead screws on the Z axis And in the
00:14:14
bear and kangaroons, both screws and
00:14:17
guides Well, if you are going to have at
00:14:19
least minimal contact with
00:14:21
technical modeling, then you
00:14:22
should definitely buy a caliper, an
00:14:25
absolutely irreplaceable thing in the household
00:14:27
Personally, I have several booms from the
00:14:29
Shah company in terms of accuracy,
00:14:32
everything with a minimum set is more than satisfactory. We’ve
00:14:35
finished, it’s time to tell you what
00:14:37
you shouldn’t buy and why, firstly,
00:14:39
if you take any of the recommended
00:14:41
printers, then you don’t need to buy
00:14:43
any additional coverings for the
00:14:46
table no adhesives on all modern
00:14:48
printers from the factory the tables come with
00:14:51
some kind of adhesive coatings which will be
00:14:53
enough for the first few months for
00:14:56
sure and then you yourself will figure out
00:14:58
which layers if you are most interested in
00:15:00
printing and which coating or glue will
00:15:03
suit you best secondly In
00:15:06
many places they will tell you
00:15:08
that an auto level sensor like
00:15:11
Touch or crtouch is a must on
00:15:13
any printer, supposedly without it it was
00:15:16
impossible to print at all and men
00:15:18
won’t respect even the code in their slippers and they’ll
00:15:20
start [ __ ], so in reality these sensors
00:15:22
are needed only in two cases. The first is
00:15:25
if there is a need to constantly change the
00:15:27
table covering, like one plastic
00:15:28
is printed on glass with such glue, a
00:15:30
second plastic is printed on glass with another glue, a
00:15:32
third on a sheet of textolite glass,
00:15:34
a fourth on some other sheet, and
00:15:36
so on. In general, this practice really
00:15:38
needed, well, at most one out of a thousand, all the
00:15:41
rest just buy glue to
00:15:43
which all the filaments stick and the circus
00:15:45
performance stops. The second case
00:15:48
is if the table is really crooked then Yes,
00:15:51
indeed, with the help of sensors like a
00:15:52
touch, it will be possible to programmatically correct
00:15:54
this curvature But this is at most a couple of
00:15:57
percent cases and It seems to me a more
00:16:00
logical course of action to first
00:16:02
get the printer to see if
00:16:05
its table is crooked or not, try to fix it, and
00:16:07
only if it is no longer possible to make the table
00:16:10
physically level, then the program
00:16:13
will compensate for this curvature; they will immediately
00:16:15
spend money, effort and time on installing
00:16:17
all sorts of different sensors in- third
00:16:19
touch screens such as MKS TFT BT and
00:16:23
the like. At first glance, they may
00:16:25
seem convenient since the touch
00:16:27
interface of a USB flash drive is sometimes even wi-fi;
00:16:29
in fact, due to the implementation curve on the
00:16:32
Marlin firmware, these screens in many
00:16:34
cases cause a decrease in
00:16:36
print speed, sometimes down to lags that
00:16:38
lead to visible defects on models,
00:16:40
they can also negatively affect
00:16:43
safety, and on other firmware these
00:16:45
screens are not needed because they have a
00:16:48
convenient interface. Yes, and you can
00:16:50
install completely different screens there, much
00:16:52
better, so don’t waste money on this
00:16:54
touch-sensitive nonsense sit on the stock
00:16:57
screen and then if you really want something
00:17:00
like that, then you will switch to more
00:17:01
advanced firmware where, again, these
00:17:04
screens are not needed on the same topic, you can also
00:17:06
say that now on most
00:17:07
printers there is no need to replace the motherboard or
00:17:09
drivers. The fact is that until
00:17:12
the end of the summer of 2022, a
00:17:15
very important
00:17:16
algorithm called linear
00:17:18
Advance did not work on some drivers. Therefore, if such drivers were
00:17:21
hard wired, they often advised to
00:17:22
simply replace the board with one with no
00:17:24
bugs. But if they weren’t
00:17:26
wired, then only the drivers were changed, so there’s
00:17:28
no need to do this anymore. The tank
00:17:31
has been fixed and
00:17:33
all the necessary algorithms work on all quiet drivers on
00:17:35
all the printers recommended in this video,
00:17:37
at least at the time of the
00:17:38
release of this video, the boards do not need to be changed,
00:17:41
if the situation changes, I will
00:17:43
definitely write what and how has changed
00:17:45
in the comment attached under this video,
00:17:46
well, since If we started talking about
00:17:49
boards, I would immediately recommend that beginners do not
00:17:51
buy hardware right away to install the
00:17:53
clipper firmware, the firmware is
00:17:56
not that bad. On the contrary, it is very
00:17:58
really good, really cool, which
00:18:01
allows many printers to achieve
00:18:02
significantly better speed
00:18:04
results than on the same marlin
00:18:06
that is installed everywhere stock The problem
00:18:08
is that beginners often watch enough
00:18:10
videos on YouTube, or after listening to
00:18:12
enthusiastic reviews there in
00:18:14
various chats, I think that this firmware magically
00:18:16
solves all existing
00:18:19
printing problems, such as that their printer is
00:18:21
dying there, but here we will add a
00:18:23
Plantain in the form of a clipper and that’s it
00:18:26
printing defects will pass unfortunately they will not pass
00:18:28
in fact in terms of print quality Marlin,
00:18:31
which I repeat is everywhere in stock, and
00:18:33
Clipper differ only in one
00:18:35
algorithm that allows you to increase the
00:18:36
print speed by one and a half to two times
00:18:39
depending on the printer and everything else is
00:18:41
more or less the same between
00:18:43
firmwares So for beginning I
00:18:45
recommend not wasting money and time on
00:18:48
installing a clipper because it’s not as quick
00:18:50
and easy as they often say, it can
00:18:52
actually take a very long amount of
00:18:53
time and there’s a lot of things that
00:18:55
need to be done, it’s better to spend your energy
00:18:58
on learning how to work with a filter and slicer
00:19:00
on marlin and only when you can
00:19:02
print well and have a desire
00:19:04
to move on, then you should switch
00:19:06
to a clipper. The only exception to
00:19:08
this rule, as I already said, is the
00:19:10
sixth Bear, it makes little sense in
00:19:13
stock in general, and by stock I mean including the
00:19:15
Marlin firmware. So for
00:19:17
the bear on the contrary, I recommend immediately
00:19:19
buying one carpenter Orange P3 lts
00:19:22
power supply 5 Volt there is 35 amperes or
00:19:25
similarly a step down with 24 volts and a
00:19:27
microSD card fast 16 gigs is
00:19:29
enough Okay, we figured out what to buy or not to
00:19:32
buy. I hope my advice
00:19:35
will help you spend your
00:19:37
hard-earned finances on a really good
00:19:39
printer and not some unnecessary
00:19:41
flash drive dates But what to do until it
00:19:43
arrives, firstly, especially for
00:19:45
beginners, I have a playlist on my channel
00:19:47
where to start. Where videos are collected that
00:19:49
allow you to learn how to make basic
00:19:51
settings and calibrate the printer, I highly
00:19:53
recommend watching you will have
00:19:55
an understanding of what to do with the printer after
00:19:57
receiving it,
00:19:59
soon I plan to make a video about
00:20:00
setting up the printer from scratch, if you have already done so,
00:20:02
now a hint will be displayed in the corner of the screen,
00:20:04
you can go and look. And
00:20:07
if it is not displayed, then you need to
00:20:09
subscribe and wait a little,
00:20:11
secondly, almost everything the movement of messages
00:20:13
occurs in Telegram chats. So I
00:20:15
recommend joining the 3D chat,
00:20:17
since it is the largest and they
00:20:19
don’t bully newcomers there, so you can calmly
00:20:21
ask your questions as they appear.
00:20:23
And thirdly, I recommend starting
00:20:26
training in modeling, since without it
00:20:28
3D printing very limited
00:20:29
capabilities, on my channel there is a series
00:20:32
of three training videos on the 3D compass,
00:20:33
for many this generally helps to start
00:20:35
modeling, but this is very basic
00:20:37
training, it would be better to watch
00:20:39
training videos on some specialized channels. I
00:20:41
remind you that all the
00:20:44
mentioned products have links to resources in
00:20:47
the description for the video I will not refuse an
00:20:49
odd number of likes and subscription
00:20:51
to the channel Thank you very much for watching and
00:20:54
good luck to you

Description:

Какой принтер купить новичку в 2022? Что кроме принтера нужно для того, чтобы печатать? Ответы на все вопросы я дам в этом видео Это видео устарело. Актуальное видео тут: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSuckcWgY2g Актуальные рекомендации принтеров и деталей на сайте: https://k3d.tech/part-navi/printers/ ------------------------ Поддержать канал ------------------------ YooMoney: https://yoomoney.ru/to/410017801570057 Boosty (ранний доступ к видео): https://boosty.to/dmitrysorkin ------------------------ Соцсети ------------------------ Личный канал Telegram: https://t.me/dsorkin Общий чат telegram: https://t.me/K_3_D VK: https://vk.com/dmitrysorkin Instagram: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser ------------------------ 00:00 - Вступление 00:33 - Отличие технологий FDM и SLA 01:55 - Рекомендуемый: Ender-3 S1 04:37 - Kingroon KP3S 05:26 - Flying Bear Ghost 6 07:12 - Филамент (пластик) 08:40 - Сопла 10:25 - Термобарьеры 11:20 - Трубка PTFE 12:03 - Термистор 13:03 - Необходимые инструменты 14:31 - Чего стоит избегать 19:30 - Что делать дальше?

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