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Download "Как писать (рисовать) портрет как старые мастера? Уильям Бугро."

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  • ruRussian
Download
00:00:02
on my channel again, which means that we
00:00:05
will talk about a portrait,
00:00:07
this will be a slightly unusual lesson, the fact is
00:00:10
that today I will show you how to paint a
00:00:12
copy from a portrait of the famous French
00:00:14
artist William Bugrov, the full version
00:00:18
of this lesson, which lasts 3 hours is already
00:00:20
available for downloading my site in the
00:00:23
full version, I'm starting to rock by
00:00:25
showing how to stretch a canvas onto a
00:00:27
stretcher, now we'll see the
00:00:29
short version there, I start with a drawing,
00:00:33
then move on to the underpainting and finish the
00:00:35
work in sand, of course, don't forget
00:00:38
that copying is a very important part
00:00:40
of learning process without copying it will be
00:00:43
impossible to master realistic
00:00:45
painting, portraits and also drawing,
00:00:47
be sure to subscribe to my channel,
00:00:49
share this video on social networks,
00:00:52
comment and of course download the
00:00:54
full version of this lesson,
00:00:56
it’s interesting, so let’s begin the first part of
00:01:00
this video lesson is devoted to drawing, we
00:01:05
perform the preparatory drawing for painting in the usual way
00:01:08
charcoal, it is very easy to wipe off with a rag,
00:01:11
you can make some changes in the
00:01:13
process without using an eraser, the
00:01:15
main task now is composition and
00:01:19
proportion, remember that the head should
00:01:22
be too large or too small,
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otherwise it will either protrude from the canvas
00:01:26
visually or simply sink into the empty
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space of the profile in the image
00:01:32
it is better to place it close to the center;
00:01:36
first we start with light lines;
00:01:39
we outline the composition; a large silhouette
00:01:41
of the head;
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over large forms,
00:02:00
as a base we use canvas
00:02:03
stretched on a stretcher, the size is small
00:02:06
30 by 30 centimeters, the canvas is
00:02:10
Belgian linen from the MS class company
00:02:12
with a very smooth and even texture,
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which is ideal for portraits,
00:02:17
for copies, and in general for detailed
00:02:20
painting and in the first part of the full video
00:02:23
lesson I’m showing you how to
00:02:25
stretch canvas onto a stretcher yourself, I’m talking about
00:02:28
all the nuances,
00:02:31
you can also
00:02:32
stretch canvas onto a stretcher yourself, you can
00:02:35
buy a ready-made one,
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but I think that an artist, especially a
00:02:38
professional artist, needs to be able to
00:02:40
stretch a canvas onto a
00:02:42
stretcher on his own and understand a little about the
00:02:44
features of the canvas, so you see
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what... then the changes can be made very
00:02:49
easily using just a rag to brush off
00:02:52
the coal and then we continue to draw,
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clarifying the proportions, similarity, character of
00:02:59
the form, and so on, now we can
00:03:02
devote a little more time to
00:03:04
the details, but still I remind you that this is more of a
00:03:07
sketch for painting, this is not an
00:03:09
independent drawing, there
00:03:11
will be no tonal analysis here
00:03:13
according to us, we just have to correctly
00:03:15
compose this drawing, this is a portrait, and
00:03:18
only then move on to the next stage,
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working on the light and simply clarifying
00:03:23
this drawing,
00:03:24
but if now at the first stage you
00:03:26
have errors in the composition in proportions,
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then later it will be very difficult
00:03:30
to correct them,
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especially since concerns the composition, so
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now we are trying to outline the portrait very
00:03:37
precisely, we are trying to leave enough
00:03:40
empty space around, although not
00:03:43
too much,
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I remind you that the camera shoots from above and
00:03:48
from the side, so you see the portrait with
00:03:51
some perspective distortions,
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proportional distortions, of course,
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when you draw it yourself, then
00:03:58
base it primarily on the original,
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this is the first a copy
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from a series of lessons dedicated to copying, there are
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two more lessons on painting hillocks ahead
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and we are starting from simple to complex,
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this is a fairly simple
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profile portrait in the next lessons we will
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perform more complex copies with more
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details and a greater degree of
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completeness, the
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first lesson will be quite simple
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[music]
00:04:45
and so you gradually finish the sketch
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and the next stage after completing
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the sketch is fixing the charcoal, if we
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just write on the charcoal, a crowd of first we
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will knock down this drawing and secondly the charcoal
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will mix with the paint creating
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dirt, so you need to fix
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it on the canvas,
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you can do this in different ways
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for example, buy a fixative varnish, some people
00:05:09
just use hairspray,
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but the easiest way is to outline the
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main lines with oil paint, so
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we add paint to the palette, add
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a little odorless pinero firm in chains,
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I will use two colors, this is the paint from the
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company Michael h1 burnt umber
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and another paint from the company old holland
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which is very similar to Mars
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orange transparent Mars brown
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transparency with such a reddish tint
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we dilute the paint very thinly on
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the palette, take a thin brush, you can use a
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synthetic one and outline the main lines of the
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construction line, we don’t need it, we outline it
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very thinly on the pinin pinin, it will dry
00:06:01
very quickly and the next day we
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will be able to work on the underpainting and we
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will also be able to remove the remaining
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coal with a rag simply by swiping to the left
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when in the
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sun someone somewhere can and clarify it if
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you see any inaccuracies then of course
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make the necessary corrections,
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this is enough, you see that we have
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fixed the main lines of the
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silhouette of the head and the coals can be
00:06:31
simply brushed off with a rag and rubbed even with your finger,
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but first let’s leave it to dry the
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next day ihnen the paint will be
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dry, it will dry and we can proceed to the
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next stage, which is called
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underpainting; we will also do it with the
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same paints from the company Old Holland &
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Michael h 1 underpainting You can do it
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in different ways using one paint with two or all
00:06:57
paints from the palette, we’ll talk about this
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a little later. We’ll
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use Belt Light thinners from the company
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com as a thinner. Damn, it dries quickly, in general, you can
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use regular pinin,
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it also dries quite quickly, but
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I took a different thinner because it
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it won’t collapse very much,
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you see that we have the main lines
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fixed, but there is some charcoal left
00:07:28
on the canvas, it will disturb us a little,
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so you can take a rag and just
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brush it off with light movements without
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any effort on my part, if you were
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using a graphite pencil, then this
00:07:42
would be done it didn’t work, so we remove
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this coal and we are left with a very clean
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image, a
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clean canvas and a few basic lines,
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we take flat bristles, a little thinner
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and on the palette I mix such a fairly
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dense hair color, we use two
00:08:02
paints, you can use one paint, but
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in my opinion, adding such a transparent
00:08:08
shade of reddish shade we make
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our pie more interesting and picturesque it is best to
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work in stages like this
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showing especially when you are working
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on copies and that’s when we start
00:08:23
working on the underpainting mta we work
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starting with large 57 a large spot is for
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example a spot of hair if you look
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at the original in a portrait photograph abu
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grotto you will see that there is a large
00:08:36
spot there, a dark spot of hair and a light spot,
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this is the portrait itself, we of course have a
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section of the background,
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it starts better with dark spots, it’s
00:08:46
easier to take them with the eye, it’s better to see the dark
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spots and just flat until at first it’s
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quite flat, we paint over such a
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dark spot of hair gradually we begin
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to clarify the character of the silhouette, we highlight the
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light there, we highlight the shadow too much on the
00:09:07
volume, we don’t work on the volume, the thing is that this
00:09:10
will be the subject of the next part of the first
00:09:12
registration and 2nd registration, the main task in
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underpainting is to establish tonal
00:09:17
relationships,
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again I repeat that it was possible to perform the
00:09:21
roller in different ways and with different degree of
00:09:23
completeness, some make it very
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detailed,
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some simply tint the canvas and sometimes
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highlight the light
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in this situation, I would use
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only 2 paints goes under the paint,
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quite roughly simple,
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again, I will repeat this is the first copy of a
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series of copies, so we will not complicate
00:09:43
our task from the very beginning, it is made
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quite simple and clear underpainting
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highlight the light and shadow
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about the wings the spot of hair we move on to the shadows
00:09:55
on the face I work first with the shadows within a
00:09:59
fairly large shadow of our own shadow
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on the forehead on the front area of ​​the face of
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the eye socket and we just work on these
00:10:10
shadows compare the darkest spot
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is the hair and the shadows on the hair remember that
00:10:16
they will not be different, they will not be the same in
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tons, somewhere they will be light, somewhere they
00:10:22
will be darker, but they will always be
00:10:24
denser than the light, this is a very basic
00:10:26
rule, remember it, it is always
00:10:28
applicable to painting and in drawing,
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after working on the shadows, we move on to dense
00:10:35
the floor is very liquid, we just
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warm up these planes,
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especially there is no point in drawing now
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to reveal the volume we will have for this
00:10:48
next part, in
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other words, underpainting, we must
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figure out for ourselves where the light will be, the
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money will be the lightest part, where the
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darkest the lightest is
00:11:02
exactly the area of ​​the cheekbone and somewhere the bright colors
00:11:06
on the tip of the nose of the neck
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will be denser; the forehead will be denser,
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that is, the shape, as it moves away from the
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light source, will become
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denser in tone; darker;
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very easy to connect the background; you will see that
00:11:25
the background is not completely recorded, but only a piece of
00:11:29
the background in front of the head; the rest of the background
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leave it white for now, after
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doing the underpainting, let it
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dry for one day, we used a
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quick-drying thinner, the
00:11:42
paint will dry in thin layers without hitting
00:11:44
very quickly and move on to registration
00:11:47
registration is the first part and we will
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work with color using the entire palette
00:11:51
I will use Michael Hayden paints
00:11:54
you can use those that you
00:11:55
are used to, do not forget to check the list of
00:11:58
materials,
00:11:59
it is given in the description for this video lesson
00:12:01
and a complete list is also attached in the
00:12:03
full video tutorials,
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we take a brush, we use the same
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bristles
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and synthetics, the brushes are all small in size
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because you have a small sketch,
00:12:18
we add the same the thinnest
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oil can
00:12:32
[music]
00:12:33
and then let's add some paints
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to the palette a little white, use
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titanium white then add a little
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yellow I use a paint
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called yellow lake but you can
00:12:51
use the yellow you
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are used to, maybe cadmium yellow
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medium Komi lemon from trance new this is
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unprincipled more o'hara this is
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yellow ocher under ondulin red this is
00:13:03
scarlett lake you can use
00:13:06
some other red cadmium red
00:13:08
dark if purple and add some
00:13:11
dark paints this is to remove the wives and
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ultramarine I recommend adding
00:13:16
be sure to add
00:13:19
not a lot of paint this is a copy of the work
00:13:23
it is carried out quite restrainedly without any
00:13:25
pasty strokes, you see that the
00:13:28
underpainting is completely dry, you can
00:13:31
check it with your hand using pinin, it will
00:13:33
also dry very quickly, let's
00:13:37
pick up a paint like this for the dense
00:13:39
platone on the forehead, take a lot of yellow
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red ultramarine and white
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mix this quite a cool
00:13:49
shade in reality in fact, you can start
00:13:52
from essentially any area, since we already have
00:13:54
the underpainting, we have already figured out where the
00:13:57
light and dark shades will be,
00:13:59
I recommend starting either on the wall and
00:14:02
either just with halftones that are very
00:14:05
dense, approximately somewhere on the forehead, in my
00:14:10
opinion there is no point in starting now wall
00:14:11
because we took almost full
00:14:13
force to the underpainting and we can just
00:14:17
temporarily leave them as they are
00:14:19
[music]
00:14:21
if you look at the original of the
00:14:23
grotto boo there are a lot of cold shades
00:14:26
and in general the painting of the hillock is different in
00:14:28
that there are a lot small
00:14:30
coolish pinkish purple
00:14:33
shades somewhere, so let's add a little
00:14:35
ultramarine and a little yellow, we'll
00:14:38
get a fairly dense,
00:14:39
slightly olive undertone and let's
00:14:43
put this point where it is
00:14:45
needed, look at the original, we'll see a
00:14:49
dense undertone and put this
00:14:51
coolish greenish undertone then into
00:14:54
it we will fuse in lighter
00:14:56
cold shades,
00:15:10
let's add a little white, a little red, it
00:15:12
turns out to be such a cold pink and
00:15:15
now we add its light part of
00:15:18
the portrait, the area of ​​the cheekbones avi, we
00:15:21
clarify this is a cold pluto, we work
00:15:24
while using
00:15:25
synthetics we outline the main spots and
00:15:30
also until we think about completeness,
00:15:33
the main thing is to outline the main
00:15:34
colors spots we work along the entire
00:15:38
plane of the canvas we connect the neck and do not
00:15:40
forget about the shoulder girdle we
00:15:45
also outline the light on our mind it is very light and
00:15:48
cold although it is a little further
00:15:51
from the light source most likely the
00:15:54
strongest lights will be our necklace
00:16:01
until we think about completeness and just
00:16:04
go through everything over the entire plane of the canvas,
00:16:08
trying not to think about the details
00:16:21
[music]
00:16:30
when you paint the nose, don’t forget that there
00:16:32
is both light and shadow, you see now that
00:16:35
there is a fairly thin narrow area of
00:16:37
shadow on the back of the nose and it is very necessary
00:16:41
to show highlight,
00:16:42
otherwise the nose will be flat, as if
00:16:44
cut out this shadow will help us with nifty
00:16:47
kisses and show that it wraps up
00:16:49
and continues even where we don’t see
00:16:51
the form
00:16:58
now at this stage we will
00:17:01
establish great color
00:17:03
relationships and then we will send the work to
00:17:06
dry after which we will move on to the second
00:17:09
registration where we will finish
00:17:11
the work and talk about details
00:17:15
about some nuances now, after all, we are
00:17:18
working on large masses, remember the
00:17:21
light source is cold, so all
00:17:25
the planes that are turned towards the light
00:17:27
will be quite cold, the shadows will be
00:17:29
warmer,
00:17:40
we wrote a little on the head, move on to the neck,
00:17:43
outline a dense pluto and shadow there I remember
00:17:48
that they will not always be darker than the saint and
00:17:50
somewhere we even connect a tight bolt, it’s
00:17:53
on the shoulder girdle
00:18:00
when we have established approximately the general
00:18:04
and tonal color relationships, you can
00:18:06
take a harder brush, for example bristles,
00:18:08
and load the colors somewhere I remind you that
00:18:12
the neck will be generally denser than the portrait
00:18:14
of the head
00:18:15
but nevertheless, it is in a fairly
00:18:17
strong light, even of course there will be Nabokov’s scientific
00:18:20
council, the charms of the head in the area of ​​​​the cheekbones of
00:18:23
her cheeks,
00:18:24
so we add quite
00:18:26
large impasto masks there,
00:18:30
I recommend doing as much as possible
00:18:33
during the first registration, working even
00:18:37
a little with details so that later when we
00:18:40
send this work to dry, we could
00:18:43
simply return to the registration and finish the
00:18:46
details without making big changes
00:18:48
to the portrait itself, so now we are trying to
00:18:51
do as much as possible in one session
00:19:04
[music] we
00:19:16
begin to work a little on the similarity,
00:19:19
we clarify the nature of the shape, we look at the length of the
00:19:22
nose, the tilt of the head as a whole and forget
00:19:26
that all the details will also tilt
00:19:28
along with the head, this also applies to the eyes and
00:19:32
lips and nostrils
00:19:37
when we are working on a portrait and
00:19:40
still think not only about color but also about the
00:19:42
overall similarity of the design, proportions and so
00:19:45
on, although of course we did
00:19:47
the thanking or drawing first parts and
00:19:50
have already worked on the proportions,
00:19:53
however, in the process the proportions often get
00:19:54
confused, especially when we write when the
00:19:57
process becomes a little more
00:19:58
emotional, so sometimes
00:20:01
we return to the proportions of a large
00:20:03
silhouette and check now the work may
00:20:09
look a little more picturesque, it
00:20:11
may be some random shades,
00:20:13
it’s not It’s scary even the advantages of
00:20:17
working in the initial stages, then in
00:20:19
the process
00:20:20
it will all be described softened and is
00:20:23
already as close as possible to the original.
00:20:28
In general, copying is a very important stage
00:20:30
in the learning process, if you want to
00:20:33
learn how to paint a portrait, do it
00:20:35
well, realistically, correctly, then you cannot
00:20:38
avoid copying, copying
00:20:41
very often and We are constantly
00:20:50
gradually approaching the completion of this
00:20:52
part,
00:20:55
remember that in full form the lessons
00:20:57
last more than three hours, of
00:20:59
course I speak in as much detail as possible about
00:21:01
each part, this is still a review
00:21:05
version, we soften the boundaries, soften the
00:21:11
transitions of halftones and leave this
00:21:14
work to dry as it takes
00:21:17
several days depending depending on the conditions,
00:21:20
I recommend listening, but at least
00:21:22
3-4 days, when the work is completely dry,
00:21:26
we must do a very important process
00:21:28
called interlayer processing, which is
00:21:32
that we need to destroy
00:21:35
the film that forms oil; oil
00:21:37
paint, upon drying, this film does not allow the
00:21:41
first and second layers to bond and
00:21:44
as a result, peeling is possible, so
00:21:48
we just take an ordinary razor quite
00:21:51
confidently, although without unnecessary pressure we go through
00:21:55
the portrait and destroy this oil film,
00:21:59
then we take two components: pinin and
00:22:04
compacted linseed oil, the thing is that you
00:22:07
can use just compacted
00:22:10
oil, but it is very thick,
00:22:11
especially if you take good ones
00:22:13
imported oil will be very difficult to
00:22:15
apply in an even layer on the canvas,
00:22:18
so we need to dilute it a little
00:22:20
back to us and then
00:22:23
coat this work quite thickly using this
00:22:26
mixture of compacted or other oil and
00:22:29
pinene, look against the light and master
00:22:33
some matte spots, then also
00:22:35
cover them oil can also be used with
00:22:38
ordinary linseed oil, although compacted of
00:22:40
course will be better, let the work absorb the
00:22:45
oil for 50 minutes, I remind you that
00:22:49
the layer should be very thick, tightly the
00:22:53
required amount has been absorbed,
00:22:56
we simply remove the residue with an ordinary soft rag,
00:22:59
now the work is ready from the
00:23:02
next stage to completing the details and connecting the
00:23:05
layers it will be much stronger and so this is the 2nd
00:23:09
registration, the last part we will
00:23:11
work on the details, but this is not
00:23:13
glazing, this is also the body layer of
00:23:15
the painting, we will just take it for
00:23:17
clarification and rewrite the work, we
00:23:21
will no longer do it, of course there will need to be
00:23:24
certain adjustments, work on the
00:23:27
halftones, clarifies the similarity of the characters of
00:23:29
the form the proportions are even somewhere,
00:23:31
so now we’ll do this, mix a
00:23:34
cool shade, a fairly
00:23:36
light shade, in a not very thick layer and
00:23:40
without a thinner, and start working
00:23:44
somewhere in the midtones and softening them, for
00:23:47
example, the lower jaw, the
00:23:48
corner of the lower jaw needs to be softened a little,
00:23:50
this is the whole area united by
00:23:52
bright light,
00:23:54
there were no hard transitions, there will be a
00:23:57
difference in tone and color, but there won’t
00:24:00
be such a linear hard boundary,
00:24:02
so we soften this area, we work
00:24:07
literally in a wipe,
00:24:10
but without a thinner in general, all those
00:24:17
changes that I will now wear are
00:24:19
quite difficult; it can be a catcher on the
00:24:21
camera there are lessons in the video,
00:24:24
but they are necessary; they bring our
00:24:28
work closer to the original;
00:24:29
somewhere we soften the transitions; where we
00:24:32
add a little color; in general, it does
00:24:36
n’t seem very significant, but
00:24:38
believe me, it’s necessary;
00:24:46
tea, a little bit of this edge of the shadow in the
00:24:48
eye socket area, then we return to the lips;
00:24:51
soften the skin around the lips Let’s clarify a little the
00:24:55
position of the corner of the mouth. In general,
00:24:57
the position of the corner of the mouth is very important because
00:25:00
it can change the facial expression,
00:25:02
so always check the position of the corner of the
00:25:05
mouth in relation to the roll of the nose and generally
00:25:10
check the height of this corner of the mouth, how
00:25:12
high or low it will be located;
00:25:17
the leg is also working on the upper eye area
00:25:20
eyelids of the lower eyelid, that is, in
00:25:24
general, we work along the entire plane of the canvas,
00:25:27
as a rule, we work to soften it, also
00:25:31
in the first part in the first registration, we
00:25:33
usually work on large
00:25:34
planes and you don’t always have time to
00:25:37
soften the transition between them. It’s
00:25:41
necessary to do this so that the work looks
00:25:44
forward to the scene. what came out was a large
00:25:47
volume, a large shape of the head,
00:25:48
they have some transitions, it is very important
00:25:52
to make a soft transition from the front of
00:25:54
the face to the side, which is in
00:25:58
strong light, there is a tonal difference
00:26:00
and a color difference, but there is no hard
00:26:03
boundary
00:26:14
[music]
00:26:21
tired of how we made all these clarifications at the
00:26:23
very end, I decided to tint the canvas a little
00:26:28
because now you are white light of the canvas
00:26:31
primer and it is somewhat breaking out of
00:26:33
the relationship, we take pinin a little bit of my wife’s umber
00:26:36
and just lightly cover the area of ​​the
00:26:39
canvas and then level it with a soft
00:26:41
rag tons of holes has practically not
00:26:47
changed, it just became a little darker
00:26:49
in tone and this no longer interferes visually with
00:26:55
such a copy, you can
00:26:59
pick up some kind of frame, I had a
00:27:00
working one or a workshop,
00:27:03
of course it’s better to choose the one that
00:27:05
suits this particular job, you can
00:27:09
look at the work up close
00:27:11
from afar, and with this we end this
00:27:17
video lesson,
00:27:21
and thank you all for watching,
00:27:23
be sure leave your comments,
00:27:25
like, share on social networks and with
00:27:27
your friends, subscribe to my
00:27:30
channel and my social networks, do not forget
00:27:32
to download the full version of the video lesson is
00:27:34
available on my website via the link in the description
00:27:36
under this video, thank you all for watching,
00:27:39
I hope it was interesting and useful,
00:27:42
good luck and creative success and see you
00:27:44
on this channel

Description:

✅ Полная версия видео урока /скачать/ https://sergeygusev.gumroad.com/l/bouguereau-1 ✅ instagram https://www.instagram.com/sergey_gusev_artist/ ✅ facebook https://www.facebook.com/sergey.gusev.fineart/?ref=settings Мои Материалы: Часть 1. Натяжка холста. ⦁ подрамник 30х30 см, ⦁ холст (бельгийский лён Claessens, Extra Fine, масляный грунт) Часть 2. Рисунок. ⦁ древесный уголь, ⦁ краска масляная Burnt Umber ( Michael Harding), ⦁ краска масляная Transparent Red-Oxide Lake (Old Holland), ⦁ пинен без запаха Gamsol (Gamblin), ⦁ кисть синтетика №1 (острый кончик) Часть 3. Подмалевок. ⦁ краска масляная Burnt Umber ( Michael Harding), ⦁ краска масляная Transparent Red-Oxide Lake (Old Holland), ⦁ разбавитель Galkyd Lite (Gamblin), ⦁ кисти синтетика плоская (небольшие номера, 2,4,6), любой производитель. ⦁ кисти щетина плоская Daler&Rowney (средние номера 4,6,8). Часть 4-5. Первая прописка/Вторая прописка. ⦁ краска масляная ( Michael Harding) 1. titanium white (белила титановые), 2. yellow lake (желтый лимонный, кадмий лимонный, стронциановая желтая), 3. scarlet lake (кадмий красный темный, кадмий пурпурный), 4. yellow ochre (охра желтая, золотистая, светлая), 5. burnt umber (жженая умбра), 6. ultramarine (ультрамарин) ⦁ разбавитель Galkyd Lite (Gamblin), ⦁ кисти синтетика плоская, ⦁ кисти щетина плоская.

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