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00:00:47
Nakai, a small village lost in central Laos.
00:00:56
When the monsoon ends, the itinerant traders are smiling again.
00:01:00
Among them, Suta, she will be able go back to sell his wares,
00:01:04
Through isolated villages.
00:01:07
I try to reach my clients.
00:01:11
No signals!
00:01:14
Due to the torrential rains,
00:01:15
His clients were unreachable for three months.
00:01:22
I can't reach them.
00:01:25
The phone does not go through It is not a good sign.
00:01:28
The journey is going to be difficult, but Kem, Suta's husband,
00:01:32
Is obliged to make a profit their new truck.
00:01:37
We bought it with our money.
00:01:40
Like that, we owes nothing to the banks,
00:01:43
You don't have to pay interest.
00:01:45
The family agreed and we raised the funds to buy it.
00:01:50
It cost almost 22000€, a fortune in Laos.
00:01:54
Kem and Suta have no the right to disappoint the family.
00:01:59
Unfortunately, the country's roads are not kind to mechanics.
00:02:06
landlocked country,
00:02:07
Laos is one of the last regimes Marxist Leninist of the planet.
00:02:12
Its inhabitants have long lived in isolation from the rest of the world.
00:02:18
The recent opening at capitalism has little,
00:02:21
Improved the lives of 6 million and a half of Laotians.
00:02:25
Three quarters of the roads are not paved.
00:02:29
We are risking our lives.
00:02:33
You have to go slowly.
00:02:39
You won't go there!
00:02:40
Some roads end swallowed up by the monsoons.
00:02:49
I love driving really fast!
00:02:52
Faced with natural constraints, men sometimes have to give up mechanics,
00:02:56
For brute force.
00:03:02
I have to be very careful,
00:03:03
If the cable breaks, I risk going there.
00:03:06
But another danger prowls underground.
00:03:11
Days of walking in the heart of the tropical forest,
00:03:14
Wild regions serve as sanctuaries to mysterious ethnic groups.
00:03:28
Long before dawn,
00:03:30
Suta and Kem are standing to load their truck.
00:03:34
There's work !
00:03:40
We take cakes, soups Chinese, beer.
00:03:44
You can spread them more!
00:03:46
No need for them stack that high.
00:03:53
At home Nao their 12-year-old daughter,
00:03:55
She also travels, prepare the sticky rice.
00:03:58
Enough to last two days.
00:04:03
For his part, Suta buys the coal for bivouacs.
00:04:07
- How much is it? - 5€.
00:04:10
Go ahead, door.
00:04:19
Lets' go!
00:04:22
In Laos, gas and electricity are expensive.
00:04:25
Most families cook over a wood fire.
00:04:33
coal making,
00:04:35
It's a livelihood for the poorest.
00:04:39
Maye is 22 years old,
00:04:41
Her husband, Seygue, 28.
00:04:44
They work here from morning till night to feed their two children.
00:04:48
To make charcoal you need first lay out the wood.
00:04:53
Then we set the fire and cover it with earth.
00:04:58
Then we leave it burn out slowly.
00:05:00
- It's hard. - Yes, it's hard.
00:05:02
We do this because we have nothing to eat.
00:05:05
It's our only way to win money and buy our food.
00:05:13
Seygue and Maye ruin their lungs in the toxic fumes,
00:05:16
For a quarantine euros per month.
00:05:20
We are not healthy with the smoke in the nose all day long,
00:05:24
I have a sore throat and I cough.
00:05:27
- Do you have a sore throat? - Yes a lot.
00:05:31
In Laos, a quarter of the population lives below the poverty line.
00:05:37
With their trucks filled with goods,
00:05:39
Suta, Kem and their daughter sinks into the jungle.
00:05:43
The father may well know the path by heart,
00:05:45
Each year the track is different.
00:05:49
There, the path lasts because it has been raining a lot lately.
00:05:53
At the end of the rainy season,
00:05:55
The roads are broken, it's dangerous.
00:06:01
Torrential rains descended on the region.
00:06:05
They dug these deep furrows,
00:06:07
And took away portions entire roads.
00:06:14
Kem must constantly slalom between the ruts.
00:06:19
Fortunately there is power steering.
00:06:23
On this kind of road, we couldn't drive without it.
00:06:34
2 hours later, the track turns into a roller coaster.
00:06:43
Kem is only afraid of one thing,
00:06:45
Damage their precious truck.
00:06:50
Gently.
00:06:53
It hits below.
00:06:58
You know, my vehicle, I want it like the apple of my eye.
00:07:03
So the harder it is, the more I lift my foot.
00:07:12
Break this little gem at 22000€,
00:07:14
And that would be ruin for the whole family.
00:07:22
At the bottom of this slope, the first leg of the journey,
00:07:25
The village of Vang Vieng.
00:07:30
Here, we lack everything and the visit a street vendor,
00:07:33
Is a highly anticipated event.
00:07:37
Come ! I have soup, cigarettes, shoes and beer.
00:07:43
These peasant women are shy, but Suta knows how to hook fish.
00:07:47
You will leave well tempted by these dresses?
00:07:52
Come on, let's see!
00:07:54
But it's not free!
00:07:57
It's cheap ! In town, we only wear that.
00:08:01
I really like this color.
00:08:03
- Yes, she is very beautiful. - Yes, she is really pretty.
00:08:05
The approach maneuver has its effect.
00:08:08
I also have lighters.
00:08:09
Suta, does not sell drugs,
00:08:11
But she always a miracle product to offer.
00:08:14
Me, I don't feel not very well right now.
00:08:16
Buy me an energy bar, it gives strength.
00:08:19
I'm looking for flip flops, do you have any?
00:08:21
Flip flops ? Yes, flip flops, I do not have. It's €1.60.
00:08:23
€1.60?
00:08:27
I sell them for €1.70 at my shop.
00:08:30
Come on, I'll give you a price, but I must live!
00:08:33
Suta sets the prices she wants,
00:08:35
Here, no competition, then customers have no choice.
00:08:39
It's not everyday that there are merchants passing by,
00:08:44
They are happy.
00:08:45
The little merchant is a tough businesswoman.
00:08:49
Can you do it for me for 5€?
00:08:51
No I can not.
00:08:53
How's business?
00:08:56
Suta, you have well sold today?
00:08:58
Yes, just a little.
00:09:00
Thanks.
00:09:04
The recipe does not exceed 100€,
00:09:06
This barely reimburses the fuel.
00:09:08
It is to be hoped that in Ban Tom, the next town.
00:09:11
Business will be better.
00:09:16
On the road, the memories monsoon are still fresh.
00:09:33
By insisting too much, Kem risks to dig his own trap.
00:09:42
You won't go there!
00:09:47
Only one solution, gain momentum in an attempt to force through.
00:10:12
But thirty minutes later...
00:10:16
Looked !
00:10:19
Wait, there is no place here to turn around.
00:10:21
We will stop there to have a look.
00:10:29
It's hard there. We will do may not be able to pass.
00:10:32
my husband went to take a look at.
00:10:35
The plain is totally flooded.
00:10:37
Only these electric poles, reminder that a road passed by there.
00:10:43
The trip was very hard and we've come all this way for nothing.
00:10:49
Unable to pass, we have no other choice,
00:10:51
You have to turn around and go back.
00:10:55
This year's monsoon was particularly strong.
00:10:59
We will have to wait several months before the water recedes.
00:11:06
Until then, Kem and Suta will having to find new villages,
00:11:09
To make up for this shortfall.
00:11:14
Laos has many other inaccessible places,
00:11:17
Like these vast tropical forests.
00:11:21
Their precious wood attracts all lusts.
00:11:26
To fetch these rare essences.
00:11:29
Man has a powerful ally whose traces date back more than 6,000 years.
00:11:38
Elephants are the only ones who can work in these steep forests.
00:11:46
Advance !
00:11:53
To the left !
00:11:55
Kambou is a 28 year old male.
00:11:58
To direct it, Boun Yang, its mahout, uses only his feet and the sound of his voice.
00:12:04
The animal has only one fault, a huge appetite.
00:12:09
Stop eating, move on!
00:12:11
He swallows nearly 250 kilos of plants per day.
00:12:17
Move right!
00:12:20
He is moving too slowly. Come on, come help me.
00:12:23
Loggers pay Boun Yang and his elephant,
00:12:25
To fetch the cut wood in the most inaccessible places.
00:12:36
Come on, get rid of this!
00:12:46
My other elephant got hurt trying to climb a slope like this.
00:12:50
It was raining, the ground was slippery,
00:12:53
He skidded and twisted the front paw.
00:12:58
We're going to tilt the trunk.
00:13:00
That way, we will be able lift it to pull it.
00:13:03
Advance !
00:13:06
To the left !
00:13:12
Go ahead my daddy!
00:13:17
Raised !
00:13:19
Still.
00:13:21
Push!
00:13:22
Head down.
00:13:24
Still !
00:13:25
On such a steep slope,
00:13:27
The symbiosis between man and the animal is capital.
00:13:31
To the right !
00:13:35
Come down.
00:13:37
Still.
00:13:40
Still.
00:13:46
To disassemble this trunk of 850 kilos,
00:13:49
The elephant only needs of about ten minutes.
00:14:00
Kambou, is the pride of his mahout.
00:14:03
This elephant, we trained it when he was three years old.
00:14:06
Today, he is 28 years old,
00:14:08
And he obeys me to the finger and the eye.
00:14:15
Bring down that heavy logs of wood is a slow and perilous operation.
00:14:21
If the trunk rolls down the slope, it can breaking Kambou's hind legs.
00:14:29
To avoid the accident, the assistants must act as counterweights.
00:14:42
Overcome passages the most difficult,
00:14:45
Defeat Zones the most inaccessible
00:14:48
This is the fate of the elephants of Laos.
00:14:54
In a final effort, Kambou draws his charge to the top of this hill.
00:15:07
Soon, trucks will come to take away the rosewood brought back by the elephant.
00:15:12
These trunks will end up in woodwork or in luxurious furniture,
00:15:15
In Beijing, Hanoi or elsewhere.
00:15:19
Come on, let's go swimming!
00:15:21
For the elephant, the bath is more than just a refresh.
00:15:25
Behind this solid look, it hides very sensitive skin.
00:15:29
Water kills parasites and to prevent his skin from drying out.
00:15:35
On your knees, get on your knees!
00:15:38
Go on !
00:15:39
Bend down !
00:15:42
The operation turns quickly to the game between humans and animals.
00:15:48
Catch me!
00:15:58
When you're mahout, you have to love his elephant is important.
00:16:03
The elephant is our life. Without it, we don't make money.
00:16:09
We love each other with this elephant, we go everywhere together.
00:16:12
Come on, come here, you!
00:16:13
This bond lasts for twelve years already.
00:16:16
Man and animal have noticeably the same life expectancy.
00:16:20
Hopefully, Kambou and Boun Yang will continue to work together,
00:16:24
until their old age.
00:16:31
Mahouts are itinerant workers who move according to the contracts.
00:16:36
This time, Boun Yang was lucky to find a house to rent,
00:16:39
in this nearby village.
00:16:41
But it's not always the case.
00:16:44
Most of the time, when we work,
00:16:47
We have nowhere to sleep.
00:16:49
We have to sleep in the forest.
00:16:53
Here, at least, it's comfortable.
00:17:00
This is our kitchen.
00:17:03
This is where the meals are prepared.
00:17:06
Usually we have to to bivouac in the middle of the jungle.
00:17:14
Here is my family.
00:17:17
They all work with me and elephants.
00:17:19
He is my wife's brother.
00:17:22
She, my wife's mother.
00:17:24
Him, my uncle and she, my aunt.
00:17:27
These peasants got into debt to buy Kambou.
00:17:30
It cost them almost 18000€,
00:17:32
almost as expensive as a truck.
00:17:35
We stay in this village as long as there is work.
00:17:39
If there is enough things to do,
00:17:41
We can stay again two or three months.
00:17:43
Then when there's no no more wood to pull,
00:17:46
We'll go somewhere else on another farm.
00:17:51
An elephant can bring a lot of money,
00:17:53
From 400 to 3,000€ per month, according to the difficulties of the work.
00:17:59
To make a big hit, the mahouts are ready for anything.
00:18:03
In a few days, Boun Yang will leave for a perilous mission.
00:18:09
Despite their strength, elephants are gradually abandoned in favor of these trucks,
00:18:14
Antiques that go back in the Soviet era.
00:18:19
Seygue has been driving one for four years.
00:18:23
The tires are what deteriorates the most.
00:18:25
The engine, on the other hand, he doesn't often have a problem.
00:18:29
I say, it doesn't look like that!
00:18:32
This truck was designed in Ukraine in the early 60's.
00:18:36
It's a Kraz 255.
00:18:39
1000 times modified, cleared of the superfluous on one side,
00:18:42
And heavily reinforced on the other,
00:18:44
There's not much left to see with the original model.
00:18:49
If no parts are found, we make them ourselves.
00:18:53
We are looking for metal to make new ones.
00:18:57
We tinker.
00:19:00
With such a machine, even a simple full is a complicated operation.
00:19:08
Open this.
00:19:09
It takes 300 liters of diesel to fill the tanks.
00:19:14
How much does it consume?
00:19:16
One liter for two kilometres.
00:19:18
No less than 50 liters per 100.
00:19:22
He is very foodie !
00:19:27
Seygue hits the road with Tant, his assistant.
00:19:33
Nearly 9m long for 2m75 wide and 3m60 high,
00:19:38
This truck is one of the biggest Soviet trucks ever built.
00:19:48
Not easy to handle these twelve tons of scrap metal,
00:19:51
During the Cold War era,
00:19:52
Power steering was not yet in series.
00:19:58
Visibility also leaves something to be desired.
00:20:01
At the entrance to the forest, the assistant must play lookouts,
00:20:03
To guide the driver between the trees.
00:20:20
Further, an entire trunk is lying across the road.
00:20:25
The two men are used to there is a solution.
00:20:43
In the hands of Seygue,
00:20:44
The truck also becomes efficient than a tank,
00:20:47
And no obstacle resists them.
00:20:58
25 kilometers and 5 hours of driving later,
00:21:01
Seygue and Tant reach finally to the places of unloading.
00:21:04
These pine logs are intended to a furniture company.
00:21:07
Each weighs between three and five tons.
00:21:13
Take the hook and hook the underside.
00:21:16
To move them, both men have only a simple winch.
00:21:23
I'm done.
00:21:25
Drawn !
00:21:29
To move such a mass with means so derisory is done in stages.
00:21:34
Once the front has entered, you have to lift the back.
00:21:39
If you tie it at the other end, it will go up more easily.
00:21:42
First I attach the cable around the trunk.
00:21:44
Then I'll get to safety.
00:21:49
Finally I cry out for engage the winch.
00:21:57
Drawn !
00:22:10
The danger is omnipresent, especially when you have to remove the cable.
00:22:16
The trons are unstable.
00:22:18
Attention !
00:22:23
The risk also comes from the material threadbare.
00:22:28
I have to be very careful.
00:22:30
If the cable breaks, I risk going there.
00:22:34
Have there ever been any accidents?
00:22:36
Yes, there already have been.
00:22:38
Of what genre ?
00:22:40
Can the truck overturn?
00:22:42
It happens when that cable breaks.
00:22:46
Go ahead ! Winch!
00:22:49
This gigantic game of mikado lasts about 3 hours.
00:22:54
The trunks are twice longer than the trailer,
00:22:56
To prevent the truck don't fall back,
00:22:58
The load must be advanced to the max.
00:23:03
Let's go !
00:23:07
Seygue, though modest in size, will have enough to raise your head.
00:23:17
Bring back these 30 tons of wood and scrap metal on such soft ground,
00:23:21
Rise to the challenge.
00:23:37
When it goes down hard, the brake should not be used.
00:23:40
I do everything on engine braking,
00:23:42
Otherwise it would get too hot.
00:23:48
Because of all that wood in the back,
00:23:50
To climb hills, I have to use this,
00:23:53
The low speeds,
00:23:55
Otherwise the motor would not follow not in the ribs.
00:23:59
It's all a matter of experience.
00:24:01
I control my truck.
00:24:03
It's like that that I can continue.
00:24:11
Both men are paid per cubic meter of wood moved.
00:24:15
Today's trip will earn them 37€,
00:24:18
Two-thirds for the driver, the rest for his assistant.
00:24:21
If the job is dangerous, it has the advantage of paying well.
00:24:25
In Laos, two thirds of the inhabitants,
00:24:27
Live on less than €1.50 a day.
00:24:40
700 kilometers further, in the heart of the jungle,
00:24:43
Boun Yang, the mahout, fetches his elephant for a dangerous mission.
00:24:48
It is here, in the middle of the forest, let Kambou spend his nights.
00:24:54
Keep an elephant near the village, it's impossible.
00:24:57
There is not enough grass to eat.
00:24:59
So we keep them away.
00:25:01
Otherwise they would swallow all the plants and the trees in the gardens of the villagers.
00:25:07
Untie the chain.
00:25:09
Come on, shoot!
00:25:11
I tell the elephant to pull his chain,
00:25:14
That way we don't have to lift it.
00:25:17
Pull the chain!
00:25:23
elephant's trunk has 40,000 muscles.
00:25:26
As agile as it is powerful, she can pick up a coin,
00:25:29
Like maneuvering a trunk several hundred kilograms.
00:25:34
Today, Boun Yang and his team go to get a piece of rosewood,
00:25:38
Of exceptional quality.
00:25:40
It's the promise of a gain of at least 1200€.
00:25:43
The road is hard.
00:25:48
Only an elephant is worthy of such work.
00:26:06
The stump must weigh within five tons,
00:26:08
One and a half times the weight of Kambou.
00:26:11
Only problem, an elephant cannot tow more than its own weight.
00:26:18
Advance !
00:26:20
Left again!
00:26:22
Still !
00:26:23
Gently !
00:26:28
Still.
00:26:30
Despite his efforts, Kambou can't do it.
00:26:35
The chain slips on the trunk.
00:26:39
Usually we place the chain around the trunk,
00:26:41
So that the elephant can lift it.
00:26:43
But here we have a problem. I can not not pass the chain below.
00:26:49
Boun Yang changes strategy.
00:26:51
He will use the head of his elephant to kick.
00:26:55
Lower !
00:27:01
Kambou ends up just releasing enough space to pass the chain.
00:27:05
Go ahead, slide it to the other side.
00:27:07
We'll have him pulled over there.
00:27:10
Drawn !
00:27:12
That's it, she gets up.
00:27:15
The mahout manages to slip a lever.
00:27:21
One more effort!
00:27:23
By debiting the stump in several pieces,
00:27:25
These men would spare themselves much trouble.
00:27:28
It does not work. The lever slips every time.
00:27:31
If we manage to pass it this way, it should work.
00:27:34
I wish I could take away the whole log.
00:27:38
If we have to cut it,
00:27:39
The owner will we lower the price.
00:27:44
Go on !
00:27:47
After 40 minutes of effort,
00:27:49
The elephant finally ends by extracting the wood.
00:27:52
Stop!
00:27:56
But his ordeal is just beginning.
00:28:00
Now he has to drag his load three kilometers to the village.
00:28:10
How's it going in front with the rock?
00:28:12
It is really huge!
00:28:25
After 3 hours of desperate effort, the elephant is exhausted.
00:28:30
The stump did not move than about ten meters.
00:28:34
Boun Yang resolves to throw in the towel.
00:28:39
Today we don't have managed to pull this log.
00:28:42
We have to cut it in half.
00:28:44
Then we can move it but only tomorrow.
00:28:48
Today, enough is enough.
00:28:49
My elephant is tired.
00:28:52
The wood will lose a lot of value,
00:28:54
But if Boun Yang had been stubborn,
00:28:57
The consequences would could have been dramatic for Kambou.
00:29:02
Other mahouts are not not as considerate.
00:29:05
William, a young veterinarian from the Elefantasia association,
00:29:09
Getting ready to treat her first patient of the day.
00:29:13
Three weeks ago this mahout was obliged to fire a gun at his elephant.
00:29:18
It was the only way to calm the animal.
00:29:21
He had entered dementia attacks,
00:29:23
Which make these behemoths dangerous.
00:29:26
He had broken his chain, I couldn't do nothing, he was going to kill me.
00:29:30
What weapon did you have?
00:29:32
A rifle.
00:29:33
Then the elephant must have suffered a lot.
00:29:36
What did you do ?
00:29:38
Yes, he was in pain. I took a rope and I gave him a tourniquet.
00:29:43
Weren't you scared?
00:29:44
Yes, very much.
00:29:47
This elephant is very difficult to cure.
00:29:50
He is very nervous and unpredictable.
00:29:52
He can show himself suddenly aggressive,
00:29:54
You have to be very very careful with him.
00:29:57
Because the elephant never forgets when a man hurt her.
00:30:16
We'll leave it alone for the moment.
00:30:24
The elephant is so big and mighty,
00:30:26
That if he catches me with his trunk,
00:30:29
If he lays his head on me,
00:30:31
It could be fatal to me.
00:30:34
Are you ever afraid?
00:30:37
If I'm scared?
00:30:39
Sometimes I'm nervous.
00:30:41
I'm not afraid of elephants to the point to no longer be able to do my job.
00:30:45
But I have a deep respect for them.
00:30:51
Known in the Middle Ages as the kingdom a million elephants,
00:30:54
Laos would only have 800.
00:31:01
If traditions and elephants disappear,
00:31:04
The country remains still very rural.
00:31:07
Two-thirds of the population depend on growing rice for a living.
00:31:11
Still a craft activity.
00:31:14
There is not much rice.
00:31:18
The harvest is not very good.
00:31:21
My family is very large,
00:31:23
We just have enough to eat.
00:31:26
This thankless work, hides an unsuspected risk.
00:31:30
Some rice fields are riddled cluster bombs.
00:31:34
When I dig the earth, I happen to find some.
00:31:36
Sometimes they are right on the ground.
00:31:40
I catch them and I swing them away!
00:31:42
Because I want to do a paddy field there, me.
00:31:45
I don't want them to explode when I pass with my plough,
00:31:48
So I throw them away.
00:31:52
Every year peasants are killed or mutilated by this kind of bombs.
00:31:56
During the Vietnam War, american planes,
00:31:59
Spilled more than 200 million tons on Laos.
00:32:03
They wanted to destroy the Ho Chi Minh trail,
00:32:05
This road network used by the Vietnamese communists,
00:32:09
To ship weapons through Laos.
00:32:13
For ten years, Laotians have suffered a bombardment every seven minutes,
00:32:17
thus becoming the people most bombarded with history.
00:32:23
It is not uncommon to find these reliefs of war,
00:32:26
Converted into everyday objects.
00:32:33
To clear its territory, Laos had to appeal for international assistance.
00:32:38
Michel Dolke, a former Swedish soldier, works for the British NGO MAG.
00:32:45
That's a BLU 26.
00:32:48
There is a paddy field a few meters from here.
00:32:50
Most likely, a peasant found him in his field,
00:32:52
And took it to put it here.
00:32:55
It happens very often.
00:32:57
It means that she no longer dangerous?
00:33:00
Absolutely not.
00:33:01
You can take it ten times in a row,
00:33:03
And the 11ᵉ, it can very well explode.
00:33:07
Among these deminers, there are more and more women.
00:33:10
Nang leads a team of about thirty young girls.
00:33:14
They all earn 170€ per month,
00:33:16
An excellent salary for Laos, but proportional to the risks involved.
00:33:21
Every square inch of land must be inspected.
00:33:28
When the bombs go off,
00:33:30
They shoot balls metal everywhere.
00:33:33
If anyone is around, he cannot escape.
00:33:40
This swarm of deadly projectiles can fly nearly 400 meters around.
00:33:45
The work is tedious because the detectors constantly panic.
00:33:52
There are a lot of shards shells in this area.
00:33:55
It may take two or three days to secure everything.
00:34:00
At each alert, young people girls have to stop,
00:34:03
And dig with the greatest precaution.
00:34:06
we never know what we are going to come across.
00:34:10
Attention ! Evacuate the area! Imminent explosion.
00:34:16
3, 2, 1...
00:34:21
Between summer 2011 and summer 2012,
00:34:23
The artificers destroyed more than 15000 bombs,
00:34:26
And cleaned near 1200 hectares of land.
00:34:41
In the northwest of the country, the city of Luang Prabang, the former royal capital,
00:34:45
Celebrates her daily ritual.
00:34:47
The Tak Bat ceremony.
00:34:56
Every morning, monks roam the streets,
00:34:58
To seek the offerings among the population.
00:35:01
Sticky rice, cakes, fruits or even soap,
00:35:04
These bonzes depend alms to live.
00:35:09
Sumsak, go to the temple before each of his trips.
00:35:14
Each morning, before taking my boat,
00:35:17
I go to the pagoda.
00:35:21
I come to do **** there.
00:35:23
A prayer for the ancestors which will bring me luck and happiness.
00:35:28
I do this so it doesn't happen to me nothing during the trip.
00:35:33
Beneath her gentle and pious airs,
00:35:34
This 42 year old man lead a dangerous life.
00:35:37
He is a speed boat pilot.
00:35:40
The speed boats, these are the stars rapids that spin on the Mekong.
00:35:45
For passengers in a hurry, it is the ideal solution,
00:35:48
Provided you have guts tight.
00:35:51
It's been fourteen years that Sumsak does this job.
00:35:54
His boat is the encounter between a nutshell,
00:35:56
and a powerful engine.
00:36:01
That's a Toyota engine,
00:36:03
It's from a car.
00:36:05
It is 1440 cubic centimeters.
00:36:12
It can peak at 70 km/h.
00:36:15
To achieve this result,
00:36:19
It cost him 3000€ and a good dose of system D.
00:36:26
This engine here,
00:36:27
We took it apart first. and then we modified it to fit it.
00:36:33
Everything that was used for the car, we got rid of it.
00:36:38
The clutch, the gearbox or the transmission shaft,
00:36:41
We removed them and added this muffler and a propeller.
00:36:50
The Speed Boat Corporation is very well organized.
00:36:55
It sets the tariffs and imposes a system of rotation between the pilots.
00:36:59
It must be said that customers do not jostle.
00:37:01
Tickets are expensive. Between 14 and 30€.
00:37:05
The equivalent of several weeks salary for a peasant.
00:37:08
So, while waiting...
00:37:09
Whose is that?
00:37:10
The pilots indulge national sport,
00:37:12
A game that is curiously reminiscent the south of France.
00:37:19
If not for this time, it will be for the next one.
00:37:23
You touched one of their balls!
00:37:26
Missed !
00:37:29
Go ahead, you can make a square there!
00:37:31
Several decades of colonization French have left some traces.
00:37:37
You would have touched that one, she would be come back and we would have had the point.
00:37:42
The arrival of customers short haircut to the part.
00:37:45
Sumsak is casting off.
00:37:48
This is this one, this is ours.
00:37:51
Here, they have to put this on.
00:37:54
Give him the black helmet, that way, you will all have the same.
00:37:58
After the distribution safety equipment,
00:38:02
The pilot cleverly measures the balance of his frail skiff.
00:38:07
Come a little more over there, you over here.
00:38:10
He will stand next to you.
00:38:17
His destination for the day, Pak Beng,
00:38:20
One village, 150 kilometers further west.
00:38:23
The pilot must be able to get there in less than 3 hours.
00:38:30
With a classic boat,
00:38:31
This trip takes the whole day.
00:38:34
I love to drive really fast.
00:38:36
Sumsak is speeding at 70 km/h.
00:38:38
This is very fun !
00:38:42
In a speed boat, every minute counts.
00:38:44
This is why passengers have paid so much
00:38:46
Despite the noise and the jolts.
00:38:51
My passengers are not afraid because those have already done the speed boat.
00:38:55
But of course, the first time, it's always a little scary.
00:38:59
Afterwards, we are used to and what's more, we love it!
00:39:06
Above all, you have to put your fate back in the hands of the pilot.
00:39:10
Speed boats are not famous for their responsiveness.
00:39:15
To brake, you have to the propeller stops spinning.
00:39:18
It's not like a car which will suddenly stop.
00:39:22
We take a little longer
00:39:24
And if we don't anticipate, we can easily get hit by a rock.
00:39:36
Depending on the level of the Mekong, the rocks disappear or appear.
00:39:40
Sumsak must remember from each of their locations.
00:39:49
I was born into a family speed boat pilot.
00:39:52
My whole family works there.
00:39:54
When I was little, I had used to accompany my father.
00:39:58
I did a lot of back and forth on the Mekong,
00:40:00
And over the years I've ended by knowing it like the back of my hand.
00:40:04
But you also have to know anticipate the unexpected,
00:40:06
Like tree trunks carried by the river.
00:40:09
The pilot plays the taxis of the Mekong,
00:40:12
And drops off its passengers during the trip.
00:40:25
Thanks a lot.
00:40:27
Sumsak continues its course against the watch.
00:40:32
But how much longer will he continue this dangerous work?
00:40:36
With road competition,
00:40:37
The speed boats are disappearing little by little of the Laotian landscape.
00:40:44
For ten years, the country is changing.
00:40:49
But this is not the case of Phongsaly.
00:40:51
Here, the propaganda of the single party starts at 5 a.m.
00:41:01
From morning to evening, the loudspeakers national radio,
00:41:04
Flood the inhabitants of their incessant litanies.
00:41:12
Phongsaly is the only agglomeration of this northern region,
00:41:16
Located on the edge from China and Vietnam.
00:41:22
On the market,
00:41:23
Next to the meats, Fruits and vegetables,
00:41:25
We find products much more unusual.
00:41:36
What is that ?
00:41:37
It's a rat!
00:41:41
And it's good ?
00:41:43
Yes, delicious. You have to taste.
00:41:44
How much does it cost ?
00:41:46
60000 kips.
00:41:47
Almost €6.
00:41:49
Considering its price, this meat should be a delicacy.
00:41:59
Phongsaly is nestled in a basin at 1400 meters above sea level.
00:42:04
Here begins the first Himalayan foothills.
00:42:10
These rugged landforms and this thick jungle,
00:42:12
Served as a refuge to persecuted peoples,
00:42:15
Driven out of Tibet, China or Burma.
00:42:18
They still house today dozens of forgotten ethnic groups.
00:42:27
Tong is a teacher, he is preparing on a difficult journey.
00:42:35
When I hit the road I take clothes and food,
00:42:38
Especially packet soups.
00:42:41
And then, of course, my class stuff.
00:42:44
The young man leaves his family for four weeks.
00:42:47
He goes to teach Cha Kam Pa, a remote village in the mountains.
00:42:51
Even though he has just become a father,
00:42:53
Farewells are made without effusion.
00:42:55
In Laos, we externalize his feelings little.
00:42:58
Come on, I'm going. Hi !
00:43:01
Take care of the children.
00:43:03
His journey begins with the small port.
00:43:07
He embarks on the Nam Ou River.
00:43:09
Only axis to reach isolated areas.
00:43:15
This journey of fifty minutes must lead him to the village of Vatai.
00:43:20
It's over there, in the heart of a region least populated in Laos,
00:43:23
Let the track for Chakhampa begin.
00:43:28
Tong rushes for several hours of walking.
00:43:31
He wants to take advantage of the last moments of freshness,
00:43:33
And the morning is already well advanced.
00:43:58
It may be weeks before someone else takes this path.
00:44:05
If the teacher gets hurt or slide down a ravine,
00:44:07
No one will help him.
00:44:11
The humidity level exceeds 80%,
00:44:14
Making walking even more painful.
00:44:20
Under this lush vegetation lurks an insidious threat.
00:44:29
Come to see ! There, there is something.
00:44:31
It's a centipede.
00:44:33
It's very dangerous.
00:44:35
Its bite is extremely poisonous.
00:44:39
Tong averts the danger today with a single kick.
00:44:42
But that didn't always been the case.
00:44:44
He was 20, the first time that he confronted this hostile environment.
00:44:50
At that time I was alone like today.
00:44:53
I was scared.
00:44:56
The jungle was dense and oppressive.
00:45:03
My main anxiety it was the serpents.
00:45:08
I was afraid to step on it.
00:45:10
Let them bite me.
00:45:13
Besides, I'm still afraid of that.
00:45:17
Besides, the place teeming with pests.
00:45:21
What is that ?
00:45:23
It's a leech.
00:45:24
Are there many around here?
00:45:26
Yes, there are plenty.
00:45:30
Leeches can interfere with most intimate bodily orifices.
00:45:34
Their bites leave lesions who are at risk of infection.
00:45:39
After getting rid about twenty of them,
00:45:42
Tong resumes his walk through the jungle.
00:45:45
3 hours later, he enters in Haka territory,
00:45:49
One of the most ethnic groups mysteries of the country.
00:45:52
At the top of this hill, Chakhampa village.
00:46:01
The Hakas watch fiercely on their traditions.
00:46:05
Women wear these dresses indigo open on the chest,
00:46:08
And those intricate headpieces.
00:46:11
These clothes tell us about the status of those who wear them,
00:46:14
Single or married.
00:46:17
Here, a pig represents a valuable asset,
00:46:20
And we don't kill them only on rare occasions.
00:46:24
Today we celebrate the return of the teacher.
00:46:28
But when Tong arrived, Four years ago,
00:46:30
things were far away to be so simple.
00:46:32
Not easy to convince those fierce men,
00:46:35
Let their children go at school rather than in the fields.
00:46:41
I had to consult the council of 7 elders,
00:46:43
And the Nai Ban, the village chief.
00:46:47
I said to them, "How do you want to do my job?
00:46:50
What are you expecting from me ?"
00:46:52
I listened to them and I followed their advice.
00:46:57
Haka society is patriarchal.
00:47:00
Cooking, growing rice on the mountainside,
00:47:02
Cut firewood,
00:47:04
Weaving dresses or spinning wool,
00:47:06
Hakas Women's Day doesn't stop until late at night.
00:47:16
In the morning they are the first standing.
00:47:19
Before the mist lifts, they fetch water from the well,
00:47:22
Several dozens meters below.
00:47:28
A set of bamboo like this,
00:47:29
Can weigh twenty pounds.
00:47:36
Tong prepares for his working day.
00:47:39
This is where he lives, in this cabin about ten square meters,
00:47:42
Built by the villagers.
00:47:44
At 8 a.m., it rings for the start of the school year.
00:47:50
Five days a week he learns Laotian language and culture,
00:47:54
To fifty children aged 6 to 14 years old.
00:47:57
Everybody is here. Rest.
00:48:00
The teacher does not joke with discipline.
00:48:03
Come on, come in!
00:48:05
You ! What is this shirt? Come on, button!
00:48:08
Before returning to class, he spends reviews each of his students.
00:48:12
Show me your hands.
00:48:14
Wash your feet.
00:48:16
Go between!
00:48:18
Hello.
00:48:20
Sit down.
00:48:22
Tong takes care of six classes alone.
00:48:25
get up and tell me How do you call this.
00:48:30
A coconut tree.
00:48:32
A coconut tree and this one?
00:48:34
A palm.
00:48:36
Cheer !
00:48:37
Clap your hands for Sumsay.
00:48:39
We applaud!
00:48:43
Behind this colorful school of the Lao People's Democratic Republic,
00:48:46
A political tool is hidden.
00:48:49
For 20 years, the authorities have been seeking to control minorities,
00:48:53
Going to move hundreds of thousands of people.
00:48:58
The fate of Chakhampa's Hakas is already sealed.
00:49:01
In three years, they will be forced to leave the mountains,
00:49:04
To settle near a city,
00:49:06
Leaving behind their lands and their traditions.

Description:

لا تزال لاوس ، التي عاشت في عزلة لسنوات عديدة ، موطنًا لعشرات الجماعات العرقية المنسية. طبيعتها فخمة وبرية ، مثل جبالها البرية وغاباتها التي لا يمكن اختراقها. في عجلة شاحنة روسية مهيبة ، على متن زورق سريع يسير بسرعة في نهر ميكونغ ، على ظهر فيل أو سيرًا على الأقدام عبر الغابة ، تقدم طرق المستحيل رحلة غير عادية ، من الجنوب إلى الشمال ، عبر أصعب المحاور الاتصالات في البلاد. كل يوم ، يسلك التجار المتجولون المتهورون هذه المسارات ، مثل Southa و Khem ، جاهزين لأي مغامرة لتزويد القرى المعزولة. تونغ ، مدرس مجتهد ، يعلم القبائل المنسية. تبحث Bountieng عن الأخشاب الثمينة في وسط الغابة. التقى. المخرج: جوليان فيليكس

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