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Download "Vertical Mill Tutorial 1 : The Basics"

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Table of contents
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Table of contents

0:00
Intro
0:33
Safety
1:00
The Queen of Machine Tools
2:20
What is a Vertical Mill
4:21
Vertical Mill vs Drill Press
6:13
Drawbar
7:48
Quill
10:36
Spindle
11:51
Spindle Taper
12:43
End Mill Holder
13:08
Ann Arbor
13:43
Jacobs Chuck
14:32
Why Jacobs Chuck
15:41
Removing Milling Cutter
16:58
Milling Table
18:20
Digital Readout
19:14
Manuals
19:30
Vise
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Subtitles
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Subtitles

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  • ruRussian
Download
00:00:04
hello internet my name is Quinton and
00:00:07
this is blondie axe welcome to mill
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skills this is a new series on getting
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started with the vertical mill behind me
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there and if you're new to machining I'm
00:00:18
gonna go ahead and recommend you start
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with my lathe skills series because I
00:00:22
think the lathe is the best place to get
00:00:24
started in machining but if you've been
00:00:26
using your lathe for a while and you
00:00:27
want to bust into the world of vertical
00:00:29
milling well this is a series for you
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okay let's dive in now just like on the
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lathe the most important mill skill is
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safety and that means safety glasses at
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all times that means short hair short
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sleeves no jewelry no dangly bits no
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rings no watches this just like the
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lathe is actively trying to murder you
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at all times deny it any opportunity to
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pull any part of you in and for goodness
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sake keep your hands clear this whole
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area when that machine is in operation
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it really really wants to hurt you don't
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let it wait a minute you can't fool me
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that ain't no mill or is it well that
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was our special effects budget for the
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season so I hope it was good for you so
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what am I doing here well I'm trying to
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make a point my point is that machine
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tools are all fundamentally the same
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now we call the way the queen of machine
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tools because frankly it can do
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everything and that's still true so why
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would you ever need a mill well I think
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the thing to keep in mind is that the
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lathe can do everything but all other
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machine tools are more or less
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optimizations for common things that
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take a long time to set up on the lathe
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so yes in theory you can make large flat
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things and cut bevels and do all the
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other things that you might ever want to
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do on a lathe however many of those
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operations are giant pains in the ass
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and so we have Mills the lay that
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remains the most flexible and the most
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cleverly designed machine tool it
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achieves a maximum precision with the
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fewest moving parts and with the
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simplest cutting tools and for all of
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those reasons and more the lathe is
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still the most generally useful machine
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tool and it remains the one that you
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should start with when you are getting
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interested in machining however let me
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just get down off the ceiling here and
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I'll show you what the mill is really
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all about so there it is a very typical
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hobbyist bench top vertical mill and
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note that word vertical there are other
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types of mills there are boring mills
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and horizontal mills and and embrace
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things but generally speaking when we
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use the word mill we're talking about a
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vertical mill and the hobbyist ones are
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all going to be some variation of this
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form factor you might say it's run of
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the mill so fundamentally a vertical
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mill is so named because the spindle is
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vertical and it's just like the lathe in
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the sense that you've got a spindle that
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can be precisely aligned relative to the
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workpiece now in this case the workpiece
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remains stationary and the cutting tool
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is spinning which is different than the
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lathe and the reversal of that
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relationship between what's spinning and
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what's stationary makes those setups
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easier on the lathe that we were talking
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about so things like creating large flat
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surfaces or creating specific angled
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cuts cutting slots that type of thing is
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much easier if the tool is spinning and
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the work is stationary more or less I
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mean of course the table moves but you
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know what I'm saying
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vertical Mills come in two basic types
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and the differentiator is how they
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manage to move the spindle vertically
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relative to the work this is a column
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mill which is what you'll pretty much
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always find in hobbyist benchtop
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machines and this guy moves the entire
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spindle up and down on a column in the
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back hence the name now a larger
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floor-standing machines are typically
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knee mills and they work by moving the
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entire table assembly upwards to meet
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the spindle and that lower assembly that
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moves is called a knee and knee males
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are generally more rigid because there's
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more surface area back there and more
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triangulation in the front to maintain
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parallelism with the dovetails so you
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know obviously that's going to be a
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better choice if you have space but for
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these hobbyist bench type machines the
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advantage of a column mill is that while
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it can sit on a bench and the bench
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doesn't have to move now wait a minute
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you might be thinking hey that looks an
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awful lot like a drill press and
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have a drill press and it was a lot
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cheaper than a vertical mill all I gotta
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get is one of those fancy XY table
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things put down here and I don't gotta
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buy no mill I'm a genius nobody has ever
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thought of this well here's the thing
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there are two key and therefore
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expensive differences between a vertical
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mill and a drill press first and
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foremost is the bearings drill presses
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are designed to apply cutting forces
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only downwards and what that means is
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that they use thrust bearings in here
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and they're not designed for any kind of
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side load and milling is really all
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about the side loads you're cutting
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sideways and so the bearings need to be
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designed to handle those types of loads
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and then the second reason is how the
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spindle is secured in here
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Mills and drill presses are similar in
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that they both use a taper to secure
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tooling in the spindle and in the case
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of a drill press it's typically a Morse
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taper but the key difference is that the
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drill press spindle is held in there
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only with a taper so tapers are very
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good at resisting forces along their
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length the harder you push on them the
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tighter they seat but they are not
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designed for sideways loads any kind of
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sideways load will actually just pop
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that taper right out of there so if you
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have ever tried to do any kind of side
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loading milling type operation on a
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drill press you learn this the hard way
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because your Chuck fell out so the key
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difference with a mill is that it has a
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drawbar so the drawbar and the bearings
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are the two things that make of a mill
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different than a drill press and also
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expensive
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I mean I'm oversimplifying their you
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know mills are also built much more
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rigid than a drill press and they have
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precise dovetails and table slides and
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things for moving the work in repeatable
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ways relative to the spindle and yadda
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yadda yadda but yeah those are the two
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Biggie's that's that separate drill
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press from a mill the bearings in a
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drawbar and I'm just throwing that word
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drawbar around like everybody knows what
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that is well let me explain this is a
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drawbar every mill is going to have
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something along this line and it might
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be manually operated one like this or
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big Mills might have a pneumatic or
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electrically operated drawbar but they
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all do the same thing grab our is a
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threaded rod that runs all the way
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through the spindle and it serves two
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main purposes first and foremost
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it threads into whatever Kaulitz or
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other tooling that you're using in your
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spindle and slide that guy up in there
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and then as you tighten the drawbar it
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pulls that guy in and when you tighten
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it all the way up what it does is it
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seats that taper in the spindle so
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that's job one and then job two is when
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you come to remove the tool it will
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actually also push down on that taper to
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pop it loose because if you've been
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using that tool in there for a while
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these guys can get pretty wedged in
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there and so the drawbar will also push
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it back out again so that drawbar keeps
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the taper from breaking loose under side
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loads and that's why you can mail on a
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melon you can only drill on a drill
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press now for a manual drawbar you'll
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need some sort of tool for tightening
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and loosening this guy and if yours is a
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typical hobby mill like this it probably
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came with a tool something like this guy
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now proper technique with this tool is
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very important step one and then make up
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something like this in this case this is
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a ten millimeter square drive so I have
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a 10 millimeter pipe plug socket on here
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on a socket wrench that lives on the
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bench next to the mill and life is very
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good
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wait a minute you can't fool me I've
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seen this guy on mills and that looks
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just like my drill press
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ergo still just a drill press well not
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quite so this is the quill and it's
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another way to move the spindle
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vertically it relative to the work and
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so you might be wondering well why is
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there a quill and also a column or an e
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for moving up and down what's the
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difference why does there two ways to do
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it fundamentally the quill is a
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trade-off between rigidity and machinist
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laziness or should I say convenience as
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you can see it's a very quick way to get
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lots of spindle travel but the trade-off
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is that the quill is much less rigid
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than the rest of the system so when it's
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extended like this your whole setup is
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less rigid so if you're doing aggressive
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cuts or types of milling operations
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where you need the most rigidity you
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want to keep this quill all the way up
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keep the coil locked and use your column
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or your knee to get your vertical travel
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so what good is the quill well there are
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lots of operations that you might do
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that don't require maximum rigidity so
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if you're taking light passes or if
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you're milling aluminum
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or for example drilling just like on the
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drill press the quill is great for all
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of those and the fact of the matter is
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moving the knee or the column for all of
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your vertical travel is a ton more work
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so typically you're going to use the
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coil as much as you feel like you can
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get away with now a key difference
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though on the quill from a drill press
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is that there will typically be a course
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feed and then also a fine feed of some
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sort in this case there's a warm drive
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here on the front and this is very
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important for getting accurate depths of
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cut and in this case there's a Dro
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on this coil so you can see exactly what
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kind of depth you're getting and then
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typically the fine feed will be some
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sort of warm drive so it has zero or
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minimal backlash in it which is also
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very helpful so people new to the
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vertical mill often wonder a wall okay
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what's the right mix then of quill and
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column or knee usage how do I use each
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one and when well for most milling
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operations generally what you want to do
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is get your column or your knee kind of
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in the ballpark of where your cut is
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going to be you know maybe give yourself
00:09:53
enough room to get the cutter in and out
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and do your cutting generally with the
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quill mostly retracted and then as you
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do each pass you know you're going to
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drop it down 20 30 40 50 thousand so
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whatever that depth change that you're
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doing on your different passes you can
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do that with the quill and if you're
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milling just to make sure to lock the
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quill with each pass just to get the
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most rigidity out of it that you can but
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even with the quill the most precious
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resource on any vertical mill is your
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vertical real estate there never seems
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to be quite enough space in here and so
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the quill will give you you know two or
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three inches of wiggle room on your
00:10:30
travel but like it or not you're going
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to end up moving the column or the knee
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up and down quite a bit and on a
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hobbyist column mill that means you're
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gonna be reaching back here for this
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column crank quite a bit your right
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shoulder is going to get buff so just
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get used to that
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so the mill itself just has a spindle
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and the service it provides is to spin
00:10:49
that spindle at whatever your desired
00:10:51
rpm is with good rigidity against
00:10:54
lateral loads everything below here is
00:10:56
your problem okay so speaking of milling
00:10:59
cutters though how do we actually hold
00:11:01
them in here all we've got is an empty
00:11:03
taper now I know this seems reasonable
00:11:04
but it doesn't actually work as well
00:11:06
you think so any tooling you put in here
00:11:08
needs to have a taper on it that matches
00:11:10
your mill so a very common way to put
00:11:14
stuff in there is gonna be a collet
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alright so holding our milling cutter in
00:11:17
a collet is very simple
00:11:19
that call it in there and tighten down
00:11:22
the drawbar if you wondered why fancy
00:11:25
Mills always have pneumatic and or
00:11:27
electric draw bars this is why because
00:11:30
you spend a lot of time doing this and
00:11:35
then once your call it is kind of all
00:11:38
the way in there you'll feel it kind of
00:11:39
seat on the tape or a little bit and
00:11:41
then you can go ahead and insert your
00:11:42
milling cutter and then tighten that guy
00:11:45
down like so and then give it the final
00:11:48
snug with your spanner and you're ready
00:11:51
to mill now different mills have
00:11:53
different tapers in their spindles but
00:11:55
there are a couple of very common ones
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the most common is the r8 like this guy
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and you'll find this on the vast
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majority of mills but some larger
00:12:03
machines or like horizontal mills will
00:12:05
use a 40 taper or 50 taper so there
00:12:07
there are other common ones as well but
00:12:09
something like an r8 is is going to
00:12:12
serve you really well and of course you
00:12:13
have to make sure you're getting Kaulitz
00:12:15
that match your spindle taper and they
00:12:18
have to have a drawbar in the back now
00:12:20
the drawbar threads themselves are
00:12:21
standardized to the taper dimensions you
00:12:24
don't have to worry about that matching
00:12:25
but the key difference with spindle call
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it's like this guy is that they have a
00:12:30
place for the drawbar there's there's no
00:12:32
through-hole compared to like a 5c
00:12:34
collet for example which has a hole all
00:12:37
the way through and can hold stock so
00:12:39
don't confuse your mill spindle collets
00:12:41
with general work holding collets now
00:12:43
there are other options for holding
00:12:45
milling cutters one of them is an end
00:12:47
mill holder which will have a taper that
00:12:48
goes in there and will make use of this
00:12:50
flat spot on the end mill for a set
00:12:52
screw and that will give you a more
00:12:54
secure hold for you know very large end
00:12:57
mills but on a small hobbyist machine
00:12:59
like this you're really never gonna need
00:13:01
that and mill holders are expensive and
00:13:03
I've never had any trouble using I call
00:13:05
it so call it through your friend for
00:13:07
the hobbyist shop now other types of
00:13:09
tooling might use Ann Arbor such as this
00:13:11
Big Shell mill you'll also see this with
00:13:13
face mills and another larger tooling
00:13:16
and as this guy will have the taper
00:13:18
built into it like this and it
00:13:20
have a place for your drawbar to thread
00:13:22
in and then your cutter or whatever will
00:13:25
thread onto the end of the arbor so this
00:13:27
whole assembly slides into your spindle
00:13:30
and find that key again and then once
00:13:32
again tighten that up and away you go and once
00:13:36
again to get this guy out you are likely
00:13:38
going to have to push down with the
00:13:40
drawbar to pop that taper and then
00:13:43
there's our old friend the Jacobs Chuck
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which is as useful in the mill as it is
00:13:46
in the drill press and similar to the
00:13:48
arbor it's got its own shaft here with
00:13:51
the matching taper and a place for that
00:13:52
drawbar to thread in and that guy slides
00:13:55
in there just like the arbor did find
00:13:57
the key and then tighten that guy up and
00:14:01
the Jacobs Chuck is where you really
00:14:03
start to feel that vertical real estate
00:14:05
so you can imagine trying to get your
00:14:07
workpiece in here and also a room for a
00:14:10
drill and we're running out of space
00:14:11
pretty darn quick so with the Jacobs
00:14:14
Chuck I'm a small hobbyist mill you're
00:14:17
generally gonna have to crank this guy
00:14:18
up as high as it'll go and then that
00:14:24
leaves you room with your quill to do
00:14:26
your drilling operations and
00:14:28
what-have-you so yeah vertical real
00:14:30
estate very precious now at this point
00:14:32
you might be thinking hey I don't need
00:14:33
all that fancy tooling for holding end
00:14:35
mills this here Jacobs Chuck is designed
00:14:37
to hold these guys and these look an
00:14:39
awful lot like these guys so what if I
00:14:42
just grabbed machine is no cookie okay
00:14:45
so what's the straight dope on putting
00:14:46
an end mill in a Jacob's Chuck why can't
00:14:48
you do it there's a bunch of reasons
00:14:50
first is hardness now while these guys
00:14:53
are both high speed steel assuming this
00:14:55
is a quality drill the the end mill
00:14:57
actually is much much harder than the
00:14:59
drill and Jacobs Chuck jaws are also
00:15:01
very very hard so it's kind of like two
00:15:03
pieces of glass trying to grip against
00:15:05
each other you're gonna get a very poor
00:15:07
grip on the shank of an end mill with
00:15:09
Jacobs Chuck jaws second reason is
00:15:11
lateral loads Jacobs chucks are designed
00:15:14
for drills and so they're only designed
00:15:15
for upward forces on them lateral loads
00:15:17
on these little jaws would make them
00:15:19
very sad you know what said Jacobs Chuck
00:15:21
jaws and even if all that wasn't reason
00:15:23
enough the other is frankly just
00:15:24
rigidity Jacobs chucks are not as rigid
00:15:27
as other types of tool holding and look
00:15:29
at all this length it's adding to the
00:15:31
end of your spindle imagine this end
00:15:33
mill way down here and lateral loads down
00:15:35
here you're losing a ton of rigidity so
00:15:37
you would never want a side loaded
00:15:39
cutter this far from your spindle in any
00:15:41
case old machinists tell tales of the
00:15:43
greatest machinist who ever lived and
00:15:45
she was so because she had three hands
00:15:47
there are many operations in machining
00:15:49
that really seemed to require them and
00:15:51
removing your milling cutter is one of
00:15:53
those here's the problem if I go ahead
00:15:55
and loosen the drawbar right now I've
00:15:57
got one hand on the drawbar wrench I've
00:15:59
got one hand on my spanner wrench and
00:16:01
well what's gonna happen the milling
00:16:03
cutter is just going to fall right out
00:16:04
of there it's gonna damage the work it's
00:16:06
gonna chip the cutter chaos ensues cats
00:16:09
and dogs living together so when you're
00:16:10
first starting out just go ahead and put
00:16:12
a board or something down there to
00:16:13
protect it just in case the cutter does
00:16:15
fall out of there but there is a
00:16:16
technique to avoid needing a third hand
00:16:18
here just put your spanner wrench on
00:16:20
there just kind of put a finger on that
00:16:23
milling cutter keep it from falling and
00:16:24
then loosen up your drawbar and then
00:16:28
when you just break that drawbar loose
00:16:30
the milling cutter won't actually fall
00:16:33
the collet is still holding it so then
00:16:35
what you can do is just grab the milling
00:16:37
cutter and the spindle with your hands
00:16:39
and then loosen it all the way the rest
00:16:41
of the way and in fact you can see it
00:16:43
still doesn't actually want to fall
00:16:44
because they call it hasn't been popped
00:16:46
off of that taper yet so there's going
00:16:48
to be a point right here where it pops
00:16:50
the taper and now you can take the
00:16:51
cutter out so this technique takes a
00:16:53
little bit of practice but it'll save
00:16:55
you a ton of time and you won't drop
00:16:56
milling cutters on your work and of
00:16:58
course I can't leave you without talking
00:16:59
about the table
00:17:00
much like the lathe there's a stack of
00:17:02
slides here and in this case they move
00:17:04
the work relative to the spindle instead
00:17:07
of the lathe where you're moving the
00:17:08
tool bit relative to the work but it
00:17:10
works much the same way there's gibs and
00:17:12
locks on each slide for those times when
00:17:15
you need extra precision or extra
00:17:17
rigidity and there are markings on the
00:17:19
crank for measuring your travel and then
00:17:21
there's also a moveable caller so you
00:17:23
can zero these guys out
00:17:25
now also like the lathe is some bad news
00:17:27
and that's of course backlash any
00:17:29
mechanical system has backlash in it and
00:17:31
the mill table is no different and like
00:17:34
the lathe this is not a sign of poor
00:17:36
quality this is just physics now unlike
00:17:38
the lathe however backlash is a real
00:17:40
pain in the butt on the mill because on
00:17:42
the lathe it doesn't really affect you
00:17:44
that much you know you're only generally
00:17:45
moving in one direction during a
00:17:47
and it's very easy to simply get into
00:17:49
the habit of winding out wanting back in
00:17:51
before you start a new cut it's really
00:17:53
not that big a deal it's just a little
00:17:54
bit of muscle memory the mill however
00:17:56
you are often doing cutting operations
00:17:58
in multiple directions and every time
00:18:01
you change direction of course now
00:18:03
you're into backlash town population you
00:18:06
and all of your markings are now
00:18:08
meaningless so if you're gonna go old
00:18:10
school I applaud you but you will have
00:18:12
to get very comfortable with backlash
00:18:13
and understand how to compensate for it
00:18:15
especially when milling things like
00:18:18
squares or when you're milling back and
00:18:20
forth but wait there's a better way it's
00:18:22
called the digital readout or Dro
00:18:24
now these guys are a real luxury item
00:18:27
for a lathe but I honestly believe that
00:18:29
for the mill these guys should not be
00:18:32
considered optional equipment and the
00:18:33
old-timers are gonna laugh at me for
00:18:35
needing a dro but honestly these guys
00:18:37
are transformative for your quality of
00:18:40
life on the mill now fundamentally it's
00:18:42
just like having hand wheels with no
00:18:43
backlash in them and that's great and
00:18:45
that's frankly enough value on its own
00:18:47
but it also gives you all kinds of other
00:18:50
powers that lets you find centers and
00:18:52
you can make bolt circles and you have
00:18:54
multiple coordinate systems for
00:18:56
different fixtures and for measuring
00:18:58
travel without losing the origin of your
00:19:00
part you know all these sorts of things
00:19:02
I would honestly consider the Dro
00:19:04
required equipment on a vertical mill
00:19:06
and you know with these Asian import Dr
00:19:10
OHS they're really quite inexpensive and
00:19:12
it is absolutely worth your money plus
00:19:15
if like me you're working on English as
00:19:17
a second language the manuals for these
00:19:18
things are great exercise for example to
00:19:21
clear 200 sets STM datum in ABS mode to
00:19:24
continuously press the key ten times
00:19:26
will cause to clear all the damn for 200
00:19:28
sets STM I understand thanks manual and
00:19:31
while we're on the subject of spending
00:19:33
more money than you want to the other
00:19:34
area that I think is worth splurging on
00:19:36
is the vise everything you do on this
00:19:38
machine is only as precise as this vise
00:19:40
and buying a high-quality vise is really
00:19:43
going to make your enjoyment of the
00:19:44
machine a whole lot greater and so yeah
00:19:47
it's it's really worth spending as much
00:19:49
as you feel comfortable on this guy but
00:19:51
when choosing a vise do be mindful of
00:19:53
this vertical real estate once again
00:19:55
for example don't be like me and get
00:19:57
seduced by these swivel bases on vices
00:20:00
this thing seemed really great I'll be
00:20:01
able to do angles and you know not have
00:20:04
to reset my advice all the time but yeah
00:20:06
this thing lasted about a year before I
00:20:08
got rid of it and it was one of the best
00:20:09
things I did because this extra couple
00:20:11
of inches of height that it takes up
00:20:13
makes all the difference with longer
00:20:15
drills and some of those other
00:20:16
operations when you you just need
00:20:18
another little bit of extra space so
00:20:20
yeah I think twice about this guy and
00:20:22
finally if there's any way to fit it
00:20:24
into your budget do definitely also
00:20:25
consider a power feed you will spend a
00:20:28
lot of time cranking that x-axis back
00:20:30
and forth and this guy especially a
00:20:32
model that has Rapids will save you a
00:20:35
whole lot of tiresome cranking but this
00:20:38
is also something you can typically buy
00:20:39
later and add it once you get tired of
00:20:42
cranking in my case I think I lasted
00:20:44
about two months before I splurged on
00:20:46
the power feed so those are the basics
00:20:48
of the vertical mill now of course
00:20:49
there's a ton more to learn about we're
00:20:51
holding fixed during different types of
00:20:53
cutters and so on but we will be getting
00:20:55
into all of that in later videos in the
00:20:57
mill skills series so thank you very
00:21:00
much for watching and we will see you
00:21:02
next time
00:21:10
you

Description:

This is Mill Skills, a multi-part series to help you learn basic machine shop work. Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon! https://www.patreon.com/QuinnDunki Watch the whole Mill Skills series at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9m8v20LNARIRl9Pd9bdFRZ Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:  (I earn small commissions on these links) • Chamfering Tool : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T82I?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00004T82I • Deburring Tool : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CS39XCV?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07CS39XCV • Knurling Tool : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGB9F5G?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01CGB9F5G • Tapered Reamer : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T82J?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00004T82J • Nicholson files : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCFWWNY?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01LCFWWNY • Nicholson needle files : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7VZL6Z?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07D7VZL6Z • Mitutoyo dial caliper : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142HWZPE?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0142HWZPE • Mitutoyo micrometer set : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006J42OA?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0006J42OA • Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SOUKFLW?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00SOUKFLW • JAX Metal Blackener : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F4RM72S?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07F4RM72S • 1-2-3 Blocks : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBOJZO?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BGBOJZO • Dormer center drills : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KRZ9OBI?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01KRZ9OBI • Mitutoyo edge finder : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SG7PPM?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002SG7PPM • Mitutoyo dial indicator : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C0ZOPS?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001C0ZOPS • Mitutoyo dial test indicator : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079H8T1LV?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B079H8T1LV • Starrett automatic center punch : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006J4Q64?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0006J4Q64 • 6” Divider : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7S4?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00004T7S4 • NOGA arm with magnetic base : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K07CTK?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002K07CTK • Collet Block set : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JTOVGNM?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01JTOVGNM • DeWalt drill and driver kit : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K07CTK?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002K07CTK • DeWalt portable band saw : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001W0ZIK4?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001W0ZIK4 • DeWalt band saw blades : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061RXNU?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00061RXNU • Dykem Layout fluid : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXT3ZWW?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BXT3ZWW • High Speed Steel parting blade : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N405F1M?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N405F1M • High Speed Steel blade holder : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXSP5LL?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01MXSP5LL • High Speed Steel tool blanks : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W589CXK?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B06W589CXK • Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012X798?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00012X798 • AXA tool holders : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9C1KZB?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01N9C1KZB • Quick Change Toolpost : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JTPMTTG?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01JTPMTTG • Norton oil stone kit : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOR5Y?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002BWOR5Y • Norton small sharpening stone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049U0DI6?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0049U0DI6 • Tap Magic cutting oil : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPR4TKZ?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07NPR4TKZ • WD-40 w/ smart straw : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOX8M0A?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00IOX8M0A • End mills : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YPHSJK?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002YPHSJK • Milling machine starter pack : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YPA9M8?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002YPA9M8 • Super 77 Spray Glue : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA2EEE?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01MFA2EEE • Metal Lathe For Home Machinists: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565236939?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1565236939 • Loctite 603 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074NALBO?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0074NALBO • Forceps : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MPZKOI2?ie=UTF8&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01MPZKOI2 For more cool shop projects, check out http://www.blondihacks.com/ Want more content like this? Try these places: Blondihacks on Instagram : https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser Blondihacks on Twitter : https://twitter.com/quinndunki Blondihacks on Patreon : https://www.patreon.com/QuinnDunki

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