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00:00:00
[music]00:00:31
Hello everyone, friends, this is fashionable Podcasts00:00:33
today in the chair opposite me is00:00:35
Olga Mikhailovskaya, fashion journalist,00:00:38
founder of the front platform and author of the00:00:39
telegram channel front fash Olga Hello00:00:42
hello Today we met00:00:44
to discuss the person of Alexander00:00:47
McQueen You have been asking for this episode for a very long time00:00:49
Why are we00:00:51
going to have this conversation with Olga because00:00:54
Olga interviewed Alexander00:00:56
McQueen during his lifetime in 2002, that’s right00:01:00
in 2002, Wolf magazine00:01:03
worked as a journalist for Walk magazine for00:01:06
what period of time over the course of00:01:07
five years I worked since ’98, the launch00:01:10
itself from the pilot issue and until the00:01:12
5th Anniversary issue, such00:01:15
journalists, by the way, no longer make such journalists.00:01:17
Therefore, friends, enjoy00:01:19
[music]00:01:24
let's go back to the very beginning of the story of00:01:26
Alexander McQueen in 1969, when he was00:01:28
actually born in00:01:30
London in the family of a00:01:33
taxi driver, just a taxi driver Yes And mom00:01:36
is a teacher mom a teacher who,00:01:38
since there were six of them children and00:01:41
he, by the way, only recently realized that00:01:43
he is the youngest son, it is also visible that there is00:01:46
such a connection with his mother. I think it was clear that there00:01:48
was such a favorite, there were actually00:01:51
three girls, three boys. He is the youngest son.00:01:52
Here is the mother, a teacher who is so I00:01:55
understand that I only worked when I had00:01:57
already partly raised them all, as far as one00:02:01
can assess from some of his00:02:04
childhood memories, based on evidence00:02:06
that dad is such a specific person00:02:09
so that all the children choose a profession that00:02:13
will be some very incomprehensible type of00:02:15
taxi driver00:02:17
Yes, and mom and Judging by those the interview that00:02:21
I saw Right now my mother was obviously00:02:23
lovely, I really supported him and was00:02:26
very smart and, in fact, she was00:02:27
the first to give him the idea to go as an00:02:33
apprentice to an apprentice in this Anderson00:02:35
whispers populated Row, she heard00:02:38
some announcement on the radio or on TV and00:02:40
said Why don’t you try, he00:02:41
was 16 years old, he hadn’t actually00:02:44
finished school yet Yes, he dropped out of00:02:46
school, in fact, in some00:02:49
movie you’re annoying or somewhere she00:02:50
shows him Well, I don’t know the report card00:02:53
diary what something like that and there are some00:02:56
terrible grades except for one subject Art,00:02:58
everything is fine there and the French language That's00:03:01
why suddenly Yes, and00:03:06
by the way, she says in00:03:07
some interview that everyone says00:03:09
that we have such a terrible family, there is such00:03:12
poverty that we were such beggars, in00:03:14
fact, we weren’t really, we’re not00:03:16
looking for anything normal, how we raised these00:03:18
children00:03:19
in completely normal conditions,00:03:21
we were and are still being served00:03:24
alone, but somehow, no, when you00:03:27
look at this mother, you understand that00:03:28
no, she’s somehow very dignified. It’s very00:03:31
nice and she just says00:03:33
what I told him, why don’t you00:03:35
try it, and in fact he goes00:03:37
to the atelier workshop on the street. If I00:03:41
understand correctly, there were a lot of00:03:42
different things, this is the famous men’s street00:03:47
from atelier Yes, and Anderson Shepard - This is00:03:49
one of the most famous after00:03:51
all sorts of the royal court, hence all these00:03:53
legends that he left his signatures there,00:03:56
but fiercely and a hater of the monarchy, as00:04:00
I remember, also kind of like the monarchy, but it00:04:03
seems to me that this is such a rebellious00:04:05
Scottish spirit cat on which he00:04:07
himself periodically referred to, but then he00:04:09
received and awards, a00:04:12
slight contradiction arises here, but00:04:16
nevertheless, the truth exists. The legend is that00:04:18
he is already there. After a while he said that00:04:22
somewhere there he sewed inside a jacket00:04:24
that was intended for Prince00:04:26
Charles of some kind an unpleasant message,00:04:28
then this jacket was eventually found and00:04:31
ripped open, it turned out that there was nothing supposedly00:04:33
in Gorbachev’s jacket, he also sewed something up, that00:04:35
was also the version. It00:04:39
was generally clear that he had a way of00:04:42
writing something on the lining, a message of some00:04:44
kind in in this atelier He studies from00:04:47
some venerable master00:04:48
who teaches him the00:04:50
art of tailoring. And they actually say00:04:52
that he mastered all these skills very quickly00:04:55
because, for example, preparing00:04:58
a jacket, as we know a jacket is the most00:05:00
difficult thing in tailoring,00:05:04
he somehow very quickly mastered how to00:05:08
do it all very quickly, they00:05:11
say this about him in all the interviews00:05:13
that I saw, they say that he00:05:16
learned fantastically quickly, that he studied00:05:19
simply 24 hours a day, that he00:05:22
found everything very interesting and in these two00:05:24
years he mastered such peaks that00:05:28
no one could imagine that this was00:05:29
possible, and he himself says that he00:05:32
was in such a position as an apprentice00:05:34
who sits in the basement, they never00:05:36
go upstairs to the client, and then he00:05:38
went to another atelier, something00:05:41
literally two houses away00:05:43
called and there, uh, he already worked uh Hmm, as a00:05:50
cutter, it’s like a higher00:05:53
status; he already worked at the crochet, that00:05:56
is, he also learned to cut there, and plus he00:05:58
himself believed that there he learned to cut00:06:00
trousers more than jackets, because00:06:02
jackets, it’s kind of clear, that’s the highest00:06:04
aerobatics he has already mastered there, here he00:06:07
also learned how to bleed trousers and in general, in00:06:09
short, from this in just 300:06:11
years and then he went even before the00:06:13
Japanese designer he went and then00:06:16
to the Italian designer00:06:18
I first went to a certain workshop00:06:22
called Berman is the son of Nathans,00:06:26
who worked on theatrical costumes00:06:28
and there he studied the historical cut of00:06:31
historical costume, which was then visible00:06:33
in every collection, in fact. Yes, despite the fact00:06:36
that when he was00:06:39
asked about the theater in some interview, he said that00:06:41
I hate theater. All this irritates me boringly.00:06:44
of course he doesn’t accept the quote00:06:47
Well, there was some kind of saying. It’s00:06:49
quite possible that this was the task00:06:52
of opposing himself to John Galliano,00:06:54
who, on the contrary, adored the00:06:56
theatricality of everything, and he just00:06:58
said that he wants to bring all his skills, all his00:07:01
skills, into clothes,00:07:04
creating real clothes, he’s in it in00:07:06
a sense, he really opposed himself to him,00:07:08
it turns out that further internships are underway in two00:07:12
Italian design houses, he00:07:15
first went to this,00:07:18
he worked with Yamamoto before that, this00:07:21
was the name that was just00:07:23
right. But what else? Amazingly, he00:07:26
then went to Milan and interned for a year00:07:31
with an absolutely amazing one who was so00:07:33
outstanding in fact, the00:07:34
designers that everyone has forgotten about now are00:07:37
Romeo Ilya. When, for example, did I find out? I00:07:39
was simply shocked because this is00:07:42
such a not obvious choice for a00:07:44
person in the late eighties and early00:07:46
nineties, I mean, if you choose from the00:07:49
Italians, it’s not in his pocket, he went to00:07:53
Romeo, he should have gone to a person who was00:07:55
very much based on historical00:07:57
costume and at the same time made very wearable00:08:00
things. Very romantic things,00:08:04
a little in the style of such an00:08:06
Italian Renaissance, so he00:08:09
spent a year there after which00:08:11
he goes to study at St. Martin's, he does not00:08:15
go to study in the center, which is amazing he00:08:17
came there to get a job00:08:19
and he wanted00:08:22
that I could teach. Yes, but he was00:08:25
21 years old, it was impossible, it’s just that at00:08:28
that age, in principle, a person00:08:30
cannot be hired to teach. Well, in England,00:08:32
definitely this woman whom I forget all00:08:34
the time is a teacher. Yes, who00:08:38
in fact, she took him, he came to her,00:08:39
she says that I was so00:08:43
shocked by his impudence and he was so00:08:45
nondescript and so, well, kind of00:08:48
strange. This is the type and she tells him00:08:51
What Why did you come How to teach00:08:54
you want to say so that in the twentieth year00:08:55
you can teach, he says yes, I can and00:08:58
says there were some bales standing nearby and she00:09:01
says what is this they brought, he00:09:03
says these are the clothes that I made00:09:04
and she says I looked where I was00:09:07
so shocked and by these very00:09:10
things how they were made and it was00:09:13
clear to them that there was some kind of unique character in front of her, so00:09:15
she00:09:18
suggested that he go to00:09:20
master-de-gray without prior00:09:23
education, that in general, play is like00:09:27
some kind of graduate school, well, conditionally Yes, you have money00:09:31
he wasn’t there for this And he asked the00:09:34
Aunt for money and the Aunt kind of paid for his00:09:37
training and there is a certain first00:09:40
collection, in my opinion, within the framework of uh, maybe00:09:43
Martin’s exams, a graduation00:09:46
collection which00:09:49
Yes, and since he was very interested in the00:09:51
family tree, it means his00:09:54
family Mom, more precisely, was carried away and they00:09:57
found out that one of their ancestors lived in00:10:00
some kind of estate in which, according to legend,00:10:02
one of the murders00:10:05
committed by Jack the Ripper took place, and00:10:08
somehow this whole Legend formed the basis of the00:10:12
collection. I saw a fragment of this00:10:15
collection there. where there is hair in the lining00:10:17
and in fact it is like that and the00:10:20
Victorian tradition, firstly, there was00:10:21
a lot of embroidery with human hair,00:10:24
in general it was somehow accepted Yes, to preserve the00:10:26
hair of the dead There and so on, and it00:10:30
is known that Jack the Ripper killed00:10:32
prostitutes And among prostitutes in the00:10:35
Victorian era there was, as it were, such a00:10:37
prominent side business, they sold00:10:39
their hair, that is, somehow it was00:10:41
all intertwined into one; in general,00:10:43
everything was so gloomy. Yes, and the topic of00:10:47
death was always staticized,00:10:49
and in particular, of course in this00:10:51
collection and in this collection, in addition to00:10:53
hair, we see a lot of red color,00:10:55
again references to the vegetarian era,00:10:58
separately there are some kind of pockets and in00:11:02
them. By the way,00:11:04
after this collection, as I understand it,00:11:06
Alexander00:11:07
McQueen meets Alexander,00:11:11
but in fact, you already had Alexander00:11:14
II, the name Alexander was supposedly what everyone called him back then,00:11:17
because as I understand it, I00:11:19
forgot exactly Blow, whom I00:11:21
actually met after this00:11:22
graduation collection. So she00:11:24
told him to be called by this middle name00:11:28
because it’s like Alexander,00:11:30
there’s another version that he was hiding from the00:11:33
labor exchange because he was00:11:35
unemployed and so that they wouldn’t00:11:36
figure him out that he was already a famous00:11:38
couturier there. Yes, there is such a version; he was revealed to00:11:41
get more money. Yes, and a very00:11:43
important person in the life of Alexander00:11:46
McQueen forgot who this woman was the editor of both00:11:49
Tatler magazine and at some00:11:52
point at that time00:11:56
Then she worked Here she was just00:11:59
arriving In 1998,00:12:01
she worked in Moscow on00:12:03
Saturdays Here is this application, I’m doing00:12:05
filming for them by the way in Moscow, too, here00:12:08
she is typical,00:12:11
such a British eccentric, what is00:12:13
called Yes, with a serious such a00:12:16
risky-cratic family and00:12:18
such an impoverished aristocracy, and she is such a00:12:22
fan, one of the really00:12:23
such British-centered people who00:12:25
really somehow influenced fashion by00:12:27
their very existence and appearance,00:12:29
of course. Yes, her photographs that we00:12:32
now see, for example, on the screen, are00:12:34
just that - with something and images and that How00:12:37
it beautifully painted the lips Going00:12:40
much beyond the contour is also very funny00:12:42
Personal enchanting by the way did not00:12:45
meet in Moscow when she came00:12:46
too There was an interview Yes there was an interview but00:12:49
by the way it was not at all interesting She00:12:51
was so too on the Cloud Yes,00:12:54
it was probably after a party of00:12:57
some kind. Well, too, yes, of course, that she was a00:13:00
party, this is something, these are synonyms. I00:13:03
think she was remembering that she didn’t have00:13:05
enough space at00:13:08
graduation shows. I was almost sitting on the floor.00:13:10
So she drew attention to him00:13:12
and then she started calling him that00:13:15
she wanted to buy his collection and she00:13:18
called all the time, she ended up with his mother, he00:13:20
was not at home all the time and his mother thought that00:13:22
some crazy woman was calling. So00:13:24
at some point she finally00:13:27
got him And So she said that she wanted to00:13:28
buy the entire collection and bought it for00:13:31
5,000 pounds, which I think of course was00:13:35
a lot of money for him, he00:13:37
didn’t really understand who she was,00:13:39
as he himself admits. Yes, he00:13:42
talked about her in some interviews.00:13:43
that he was just a00:13:45
crazy rich man or something, yes, but00:13:49
she was, unfortunately, apparently not00:13:52
so rich anymore, so she gave him00:13:55
either pounds a week, something like that, she paid00:13:58
him in installments, in installments Yes, but00:14:01
nevertheless, for him, he is himself00:14:02
He kept saying that for him it was absolutely a00:14:03
salvation; he also didn’t have time to eat, so00:14:06
plus she gave him a room in the basement of00:14:09
one of her houses, which was a00:14:11
subsistence one, as then they all00:14:13
remembered that it00:14:15
was generally impossible to place anything there except a cutting table,00:14:17
but still less it was also00:14:19
Of course, such serious help and as I00:14:21
understand it, his first professional collection is not without her participation.00:14:25
Yes, this00:14:27
money actually gave him the opportunity to00:14:29
make this first collection00:14:30
professional and British, this00:14:34
Fashion consell, he chose him as one of the00:14:37
six designers who will be on00:14:40
London fashion week that was, of course, also00:14:42
such a big breakthrough, he had just00:14:44
finished. But these were not shows, these were00:14:47
presentations at the hotel and so he00:14:49
exhibited his things there, it was a collection00:14:52
called Texet Driver, which seemed to be00:14:54
visible and was partly a00:14:56
dedication to his father and the00:14:59
famous film by Martin Scorse, it seems00:15:01
nothing has been preserved And even the pictures have00:15:05
n’t really been preserved because00:15:08
he then packed it all in garbage bags00:15:11
and left it. Well, to bring it out tomorrow and00:15:14
he himself came out, he doesn’t know if they were stolen or00:15:17
they were simply thrown out as the most00:15:18
ridiculous situation of course. And I have to do with it00:15:20
I understand his motivation. He just00:15:21
wanted to pack his things to go00:15:23
celebrate a wonderful event so that he did00:15:27
n’t have to drag them around somewhere, he chose to00:15:29
pack them in a garbage bag and leave00:15:31
the bags. Yes, this is of course such a00:15:33
fantastic story, but judging by the fact00:15:35
that they never surfaced anywhere, I’m00:15:37
still -still inclined to Think that it’s just00:15:39
[music]00:15:45
Then he essentially creates his own brand00:15:49
And there’s actually another reason00:15:52
why this money was so00:15:54
important in the first place because well,00:15:55
everyone always faces the dilemma of going somewhere00:15:58
work for someone Yes, for someone’s house for00:16:01
someone’s brand and receive a salary or00:16:04
create your own for which, as a rule, there is no00:16:07
money Well, he never wanted to00:16:09
work for anyone and that00:16:11
means he has already created his own brand,00:16:13
it turns out it was the beginning of the 90s00:16:17
and now in the ninety-fourth year the00:16:19
famous bumster trousers appear,00:16:22
which are one of the main00:16:25
legacies of Alexander McQueen, it’s funny00:16:29
because Well, in fact,00:16:31
he did so many things. And of course, now we will00:16:34
definitely add to this list But these00:16:38
trousers are Ultra low rise all -they00:16:41
don’t give anyone any rest, especially today00:16:44
when they00:16:46
come back again. But he honestly said that he00:16:49
believes that this is the hollow, as it were, at the00:16:52
end of the lower part of the spine,00:16:55
that it’s just a very beautiful place on00:16:57
any human body, and that it00:16:59
partly changes the proportions of clothing in general. and the00:17:02
body, yes, that is, it kind of lengthens the torso, he can00:17:05
see it and shortens the legs, by the way,00:17:08
well, I must say that he00:17:10
always had such trousers that many did00:17:12
not shorten, in a strange way,00:17:14
either because they had heels. But these00:17:16
trousers were not only low they00:17:18
were also shortened00:17:20
in different ways very often they were often00:17:23
long too, his blood was like that00:17:26
and he himself always said that before I00:17:29
destroy Yes, it is considered that I am such a00:17:31
revolutionary Yes, the Destroyer of everything, but I00:17:34
know all the rules so well and so I know how to00:17:39
cut according to all the classical rules,00:17:42
follows all the traditions that I can00:17:45
now destroy further. In the ninety-fifth00:17:47
year, a collection called00:17:49
Raped Scotland was published, which is very00:17:51
personal00:17:53
for him, like all Alexander McQueen’s collections, it is00:17:55
very personal,00:17:58
dedicated to the events when England was00:18:02
at war with Scotland and conquered such00:18:05
Yes, and somehow he had these Scottish00:18:09
roots, he had them through his mother, he somehow reflected on all00:18:12
this00:18:13
about this, but I00:18:16
always have the feeling that the narrative, as they00:18:19
would say now, yes, for him it00:18:21
is always just such a point of some kind00:18:24
starting point He starts from this And00:18:28
then he makes clothes, here are the clothes Well,00:18:30
actually in this collection00:18:31
there was a lot of tartan and very00:18:35
emaciated women and all these are00:18:39
samples00:18:42
and, in fact, the consequences of this00:18:45
very outrage on clothes in general,00:18:47
such a very scandalous collection00:18:49
that brought a lot, a lot of noise rustling00:18:52
as I just read that he was accused of00:18:55
already at that moment they began to blame the00:18:58
activation of women in the use of00:19:01
social00:19:03
attractiveness and femininity.00:19:06
I always thought that this was absolutely not00:19:09
true. It always seemed to me that he absolutely00:19:11
romanticizes women in general and in general that00:19:14
he is absolutely a romantic and I must say that00:19:16
later when I met with Reberton,00:19:17
who just worked with him from the first day,00:19:19
she said Well, yes, of course,00:19:21
of course, he is absolutely a romantic, this00:19:23
is clear to everyone who worked with him. Because00:19:25
he always has a woman. It seems to me that such00:19:27
strong people touch -00:19:29
actually defenseless about the00:19:32
romantic Lyon, he owns a quote,00:19:34
again, I want those women whom00:19:37
I dress to be afraid. That is, he00:19:41
somehow tried to create the image of a very00:19:43
strong woman, not so possibly00:19:46
romantic as00:19:49
one with character,00:19:52
and he succeeded. Well It’s actually great00:19:55
that we have different perceptions of the00:19:58
same collection in particular.00:20:01
Yes, and that we see absolutely00:20:03
different meanings in it. It seems to me that00:20:07
this is, in general, the meaning of the00:20:10
designer’s creation. When it’s not all monosyllabic00:20:13
when all this is ambiguous, if you00:20:15
analyze probably the shows00:20:17
that I watched, this is a really00:20:19
very fragile girl00:20:23
who is a little00:20:27
deconstructed in the sense that there is a feeling00:20:30
that a created image has been created00:20:34
in which he does it in a good mood.00:20:35
And then after a couple of hours he00:20:38
returns there in a bad mood and00:20:40
a little it destroys him and in this00:20:42
state00:20:43
he is released. That’s kind of00:20:46
the feeling I had and I have the feeling that in00:20:49
general he did almost everything in a00:20:51
good mood. How00:20:52
paradoxical is this? Yes, and they all00:20:54
remember him as a cheerful and even00:20:56
already at the end, when it was clear that00:20:59
in general, of course, he was with everyone, so to speak,00:21:02
under the prevailing circumstances, that everything00:21:04
was very difficult, but when he worked,00:21:07
he was somehow always, as I understand it,00:21:10
on the rise And that he destroyed everything that he destroyed,00:21:13
all this deconstruction, it00:21:15
seems to me, is precisely in order to give00:21:18
it all some kind of This beautiful00:21:20
imperfection, he, and the resident,00:21:22
says that it’s like I came and everything00:21:25
was so perfect, it was all00:21:27
verified like that, yes, I came, grabbed00:21:30
the scissors, I needed it all somehow00:21:32
cut00:21:34
and there one of the dressmakers in Givenchy says00:21:37
he probably took scissors and ruined everything for me,00:21:40
but then I saw how00:21:41
beautiful it turned out, this is00:21:43
amazing, yes, that is, this is his00:21:45
destruction. It’s always, it’s00:21:48
clear that it modernizes everything,00:21:51
of course, yes. turns some00:21:54
classic thing into a modern fashionable00:21:57
Yes, but he also sees beauty in this, but00:22:01
we see in this. It seems to me that this is why00:22:04
he is one of the main00:22:06
avant-garde artists in the fashion world because00:22:10
he has such a view of beauty,00:22:13
to see beauty in nothing. attractiveness00:22:19
Yes, that’s all he has, it looks00:22:22
like an amazing Print,00:22:25
I agree By the way, I found out that it turns out that it00:22:29
would seem that these are two characters00:22:31
who, in theory, in my picture of the world are00:22:34
generally best friends here, but00:22:36
it turned out that they were generally comparing him, he00:22:39
really didn’t like it and she - I also00:22:41
thought that he was wildly untalented;00:22:45
in fact, on the scale of talent, he00:22:48
ranks somewhere around zero,00:22:50
terrible on the contrary. Unfortunately, another00:22:53
important collection took place in 96 and00:22:56
it was dedicated to the Divine Comedy00:22:59
[music] it did00:23:04
n’t happen, you know this here the00:23:06
trousers have dropped, there’s something else, well,00:23:09
somehow everything was formulated about what00:23:12
McQueen will be about in general about these00:23:14
almost classical forms brought to00:23:16
some kind of absolute perfection about00:23:19
their such deconstruction beautiful00:23:21
mysticism of course which he absolutely00:23:23
statizes00:23:28
Why is it always in Dante that’s how everyone remembers it00:23:30
because00:23:31
suddenly we realized, in general, that’s what the person00:23:34
in front of us is talking about, and the collection actually00:23:36
took place in a church,00:23:40
then each Alexander McQueen show00:23:43
is a separate performance and a separate00:23:46
presentation in general, and it seems to me that he is00:23:49
one of those designers who is in00:23:51
this he succeeded, well, seriously, and what’s important, he00:23:55
acted not only as a designer of the00:23:56
actual collection that00:23:58
was shown, he was also the producer and director and the00:24:02
Author of this show, which was sometimes00:24:05
remembered even more than the things00:24:08
that00:24:09
were seen on the catwalk00:24:12
[music]00:24:35
then he was invited to work.00:24:39
It was like that in general the period of the late 90s, the00:24:43
second half of the 90s, when a lot of00:24:46
Englishmen Yes, there was galliant and He was called to00:24:49
Paris and then also the Jacobs brand Louis00:24:51
Vuitton. That is, for some reason this00:24:53
was happening at that moment, really00:24:55
French fashion, isn’t it00:24:57
paradoxical, it’s somehow like that collapsed a little00:24:59
Yes, the French themselves somehow00:25:02
clearly understood that they needed some kind of00:25:04
Fresh blood, they were all already outliving their usefulness00:25:07
and it was necessary to somehow change all this, that00:25:09
’s why there00:25:11
were actually no clothes, that’s why00:25:14
it was actually quite a revolution, but00:25:18
Givenchy it is clear that it was generally a very00:25:21
classic house of this kind. And it was clear00:25:23
that all these clients were already00:25:26
essentially no longer there at all, and they seemed to be00:25:28
getting old and all this needed to be put on00:25:30
some new rails then. First,00:25:32
the hookah was invited and then actually in fact,00:25:34
it was all very bad, everyone was in00:25:37
shock, everyone was in shock. Although to be honest,00:25:39
the more I look at it, the less I00:25:41
understand why everyone was in shock. That is, it is00:25:43
clear that this had nothing00:25:44
to do with that Zhevanshi, it is understandable,00:25:47
no talk about The DNA of the brand was00:25:49
not carried out here at all, but it was beautiful, it was00:25:52
incredibly beautiful, now I’m looking at it00:25:55
especially carefully, I can say that00:25:57
it was very good clothes,00:26:00
this collection is white and gold, the00:26:01
first one that was prepared in 11 weeks,00:26:05
it was there in the shortest possible time,00:26:07
no one had time to do anything, he was accused of the fact that00:26:09
it is unfinished and not thought out now, it’s00:26:14
even impossible to see such a collection from anyone at all, it was00:26:15
made perfectly, they were perfect things with a00:26:18
perfect fit, but it was all00:26:19
absolutely perfect Well, yes, it had00:26:23
nothing to do with the DNA of Zhevansha But00:26:26
if anyone will explain what DNA is,00:26:27
then I will be grateful to this man00:26:31
because00:26:32
such average French00:26:34
elegance. But he also managed to be00:26:37
rude in an interview with an elderly00:26:39
French journalist whom I00:26:41
remember as a child. He asked00:26:44
him which facet of Givenchy’s talent he00:26:48
valued most. he00:26:51
asked what kind of talent, that is, to00:26:54
doubt it, and00:26:57
then he said that00:27:00
today they offered money and00:27:01
offered money for my own00:27:04
brand. Well, everything is clear, nevertheless, he00:27:06
also worked there for five years. This00:27:08
completely amazed me when I00:27:10
realized it now that he had been working there for quite a long time.00:27:12
I actually worked there, and00:27:14
in my opinion the second Japanese collection was very beautiful.00:27:20
This gave such an amazing impetus for00:27:22
him to have the opportunity00:27:24
to work with these serious00:27:25
workshops and they also remember00:27:29
this usually wonderful experience with00:27:31
love00:27:33
[applause]00:27:38
[music]00:28:05
at the dawn it turns out that he works in Givenchy for00:28:07
his own brand, he makes an00:28:09
incredible show that now00:28:12
looks extremely modern and this00:28:15
could really happen in00:28:18
our days, absolutely00:28:21
a collection called m13 which is00:28:24
dedicated to the robotization of all processes,00:28:28
these rotating panels00:28:32
and at the end a model named Sholom Harlu00:28:35
robots around00:28:37
them they start spraying her with paint,00:28:42
spots of paint turn into some kind of00:28:44
very beautiful Print, it struck me then00:28:46
that somehow even these00:28:48
robots Oh man, they are spraying00:28:51
her, She is spinning, They are spraying her and00:28:53
then they stop, as if they are bowing,00:29:03
and now, after more than 20 years, we see the00:29:06
reincarnation of this process at the Coperni show,00:29:11
there the fabric was directly obtained from this yes00:29:14
Something new has already passed00:29:16
[music]00:29:19
and at the same show, according to my And the Paralympic champion00:29:22
came out as a model00:29:25
Yes00:29:28
prosthesis One he made such a beautiful00:29:31
carved wooden prosthesis Why did people not00:29:35
understand, you could later blame him for this,00:29:36
even for him to make it so beautiful that00:29:39
it was unclear that it was a prosthesis, in00:29:42
fact, he just made a beautiful00:29:43
prosthesis, he didn’t want to hide anything And then00:29:47
he was the first By the way, what do you think00:29:49
he knew what he was doing, he knew that it would00:29:51
attract attention, that he would be at the00:29:55
center of a scandal, but in general it was a00:29:58
read step or it was just00:30:01
such a desire of the soul, I don’t think that it00:30:04
was calculated because they worked or00:30:05
some marketers worked together at that00:30:08
moment after the offensive Millennium00:30:11
is happening my favorite thing that00:30:14
Alexander McQueen called the boss00:30:17
This is a top video by the way which I00:30:19
watch regularly because it is a00:30:22
very beautiful00:30:24
topic of mental illness and the deceitfulness of the00:30:27
industry in which00:30:29
McQueen actually works, who hated her very much00:30:32
but at the same time loved it maybe00:30:34
Not the deceit but the cruelty of the industry he00:30:36
himself referred to this as a conditional theme00:30:39
for the collection, here is the Jungle, there he00:30:42
said that it was precisely about the cruelty of00:30:45
the industry. But here he never00:30:47
said this, but he still sewed up00:30:50
this meaning to me, it seems to me Probably00:30:52
because00:30:54
the show did not start for an hour there was00:30:58
some kind of a special delay00:31:00
that it was not a special delay that00:31:02
everyone was waiting no, but then it’s clear00:31:05
beautiful00:31:09
in those years almost everyone is shown now00:31:12
later you now many are shown00:31:18
at some point when00:31:21
they got up and left and he said and so I’ll00:31:25
start minute by minute because- for this we00:31:28
then I myself was late for the00:31:30
Louis Vuitton show because they started00:31:32
exactly a second per second and no one was used to this a00:31:36
glass structure00:31:38
imitating hospital walls in the middle of a00:31:41
cube in which we still don’t know that00:31:46
some kind of dirty00:31:48
model goes on with bandaged00:31:51
heads,00:31:52
incredible beautiful outfits there, and Spikes and00:31:56
feathers and fantasy headdresses of00:31:59
incredible beauty, a collection that00:32:02
ended with this cube inside00:32:07
breaking into fragments,00:32:10
moths flying out of it, and there lies the absolutely00:32:12
naked writer Michelle deer Yes,00:32:16
very plus Ice and these tubes are connected to her00:32:19
breathed Yes, through the throne she herself00:32:21
says that I had to personify the00:32:23
biggest fear of the fashion industry - being00:32:25
overweight. I honestly can’t even00:32:29
imagine that today someone would00:32:31
do such a thing, no, because today he00:32:33
would be accused of everything in the fact that he00:32:35
statizes mental illnesses that he00:32:40
undressed the woman plus Ice put her00:32:42
in the middle with moths Yes because00:32:45
supposedly there is no this fear of excess weight00:32:49
industry supposedly yes in fact no of course there00:32:52
is Of course there is Yes although everyone is00:32:55
demonstratively bringing out plus models00:32:57
Well of course now no now they will00:33:00
not be able to exist at all I think there00:33:01
was too much drama in it,00:33:03
real sincere drama, which00:33:06
of course with this culture00:33:14
Yes, of course he could Do you have00:33:16
invitations Yes, to the Alexander McQueen show in00:33:20
2002, this is, in fact, as I00:33:24
understand it, my first live McQueen show00:33:26
because he showed everything that we were00:33:29
talking now, it was all in London, but00:33:31
since 2002 he began to show in00:33:34
Paris with his own, you show it. Here it is00:33:36
in the form of such a school notebook, it was00:33:38
that show where they walked models with00:33:43
wolves. Why did I decide at first that these were husky00:33:47
dogs and then and00:33:49
then they explained to me that these were00:33:52
real wolves And this is Timberton Tim00:33:55
Burton drew these illustrations written by00:33:57
Alexander McQueen00:34:01
it is written here on the back00:34:04
the circulation is written00:34:07
that this is autumn winter 2002 March 9 at00:34:10
9:3000:34:11
the jury address back and forth already What a delight00:34:15
Yes And by the way there was also this collection00:34:17
Where are they Where everything was built on such a00:34:21
contrast between the most delicate of some kind of00:34:24
silk chiffon flying00:34:27
fabrics of things and tough leather like this and00:34:31
in which they seemed to be shackled00:34:34
in the mid-2000s there are two more00:34:36
different00:34:37
moments this is the launch of a men's line Yes00:34:42
Alexander McQueen and the launch of the second00:34:44
line00:34:46
mcq more budgetary Actually, how00:34:49
fashionable it was at that time, everyone made00:34:51
second lines for themselves in order to have funds in00:34:54
2005 for their main line they were always on00:34:57
sale, it was as if he set himself00:34:59
the task of selling things, he00:35:01
didn’t have this idea, that’s how It happens that00:35:04
many designers especially have such00:35:06
talent that it turns out for the sake of creativity.00:35:09
He sold his brand Gucci Group to the00:35:13
conglomerate, this included00:35:15
work back in Givenchy. I understand that00:35:18
my Interview was timed for this, so it’s like00:35:20
I was sent to actually find out.00:35:22
I already understand this. Yes, this00:35:25
here are the details And in general, it’s like a new00:35:28
stage. It’s amazing that00:35:32
Tom Ford, so to speak, pulled him there, so the direct00:35:36
opposite of McQueen in general, he00:35:39
was then in the Gucci Group, conditionally, like00:35:42
such a creative leader. Yes, that is,00:35:45
a lot of things depended on his decision, and here00:35:47
he is chose him He said that I was watching, I00:35:50
was trying to understand who I didn’t just like And00:35:54
why do I envy this man’s collections00:35:57
during an interview with Alexander00:36:00
McQueen Listen to what emotions you experienced00:36:03
But it was00:36:05
actually one of the most00:36:07
interviews that I was afraid of00:36:09
in a panic when Doletskaya she said that00:36:12
I would have an interview with McQueen, it’s clear00:36:14
that I was very happy, on the other hand,00:36:15
I was terribly scared because I was afraid of00:36:18
everything because they said about him that00:36:19
he was a terrible boor, he spoke such00:36:21
English that the British themselves do not understand,00:36:29
such an accent and nothing at all00:36:32
it’s clear and there’s porridge in my mouth and plus he generally00:36:34
speaks and swears every word Well,00:36:38
in general, he’s terrible, it’s as if it’s00:36:40
impossible to communicate with him, one of the00:36:42
biggest fears I had was that I wouldn’t understand00:36:43
what he was saying and, accordingly, it00:36:45
would be difficult for me to conduct anything at all00:36:47
conversation, and in general I was afraid that he would be00:36:49
rude and would not answer questions00:36:51
or would answer like that, there is such00:36:54
money that they talk with such replies as from00:36:55
press releases And you actually didn’t say00:36:58
anything from this interview. As a00:37:00
result, you turned out to be completely00:37:04
different, first of all everything was00:37:06
clear, I don’t know whether by this time he had already00:37:08
begun to speak normally, or whether he00:37:11
always said normal, that it was00:37:13
such, as if greatly exaggerated, such00:37:16
conversations turned out to be the sweetest, polite,00:37:20
wonderful, I remember all the time we were sitting00:37:22
in a cafe, we went to a cafe which is near his00:37:25
studio was there and00:37:27
I threw my bag on the floor and He grabbed my00:37:32
bag and said let me support it,00:37:34
a lot of homeless people here were00:37:37
touched by this, there was some kind of such a00:37:39
lovely human00:37:42
reaction, somehow unusual considering00:37:44
what we know about him, yes, well and then00:37:47
there was an absolutely wonderful conversation, I must00:37:49
say, because there’s one more thing I’m00:37:51
always afraid and I was also afraid with him that he00:37:53
would talk very lofty, he would00:37:54
talk loftily about how in his00:37:57
work how sublime it is, nothing00:38:00
like that, he talked about some very00:38:02
simple things and fabrics about how he00:38:06
learned to cut and some kind of00:38:08
absolutely priceless skill that in fact, of00:38:10
course, set him apart from everyone, and he00:38:13
talked about how impossible it was to00:38:14
work with his Mash That’s because00:38:17
he speaks very poorly of them in general he00:38:19
said that they are not the same thing00:38:22
Selling clothes and selling champagne00:38:23
Well, of course, he was00:38:26
very offended by them, so he’s so00:38:29
happy in the Gucci Group because00:38:31
they just understand what it’s like fashion in general00:38:33
What is clothing and what is a00:38:35
talented designer and so on, curses were poured00:38:37
in the direction of those who were00:38:38
chewing In short, everything was very00:38:41
witty, very cute and, as it were, very to00:38:43
the point and of course Now I remember all this,00:38:45
I terribly regret that I didn’t have a lot of00:38:48
things I asked, but listen, there00:38:51
was no such YouTube information flow yet,00:38:54
well, as if all this didn’t00:38:56
exist, we didn’t know a lot of things and when we00:38:58
were preparing for this interview, well, it was as if we were00:38:59
relying only on our own00:39:01
impressions, what00:39:03
if we had the opportunity now? to00:39:05
ask him something for you to ask I would00:39:06
also ask about work at Givenchy00:39:08
because then I watched a00:39:12
lot of video00:39:13
interviews with people who worked at00:39:16
Givenchy, worked there all their lives,00:39:17
who said that he was really wonderful00:39:20
And what they greeted him with00:39:22
horror and hostility, such a French house of00:39:24
couture. Here this one came in this00:39:27
stretched out T-shirt. Yes, shaved, this bald man,00:39:32
strange, this00:39:34
English French house, and the00:39:37
French house, what in itself, but00:39:39
he came after the minnow. There, even before00:39:40
this minnow, there was and tried00:39:44
to bring his own British rebellion into this temple, this couture one.00:39:50
And of course they were horrified, and then00:39:52
they very quickly appreciated00:39:55
his skill, that is, they realized00:39:57
that he really knows how to do everything. And by the way, they often00:40:00
compared him to John Gallian and00:40:02
Alexander Makvin it really00:40:04
infuriated Yes, of course, of course, they are eternal00:40:07
rivals and at the same time, strangely enough,00:40:09
it is believed that they are similar; they are absolutely00:40:11
opposites in their approach. Well,00:40:14
they are just both English and both are00:40:16
provocative, these guys. Yes, that00:40:19
was probably their origin00:40:22
Of course, I also want to say that McQueen has a00:40:24
dad who is a plumber and00:40:27
is not a taxi driver at McQueen.00:40:31
And it was somehow also compared that they are both00:40:34
such commoners, an important collection of00:40:37
2006, which was called widow’s decks,00:40:39
where, in fact, a hologram takes part00:40:42
[music] Yes,00:40:45
in the finale, a hologram of Keith Moss00:40:53
[music]00:41:04
[music]00:41:16
and your favorite shows and collections of00:41:19
Alexander McQueen Here is one of the00:41:20
most, most beloved girl living in a00:41:23
tree in which in some enchanting00:41:26
way the retro of the forties intervened00:41:28
Gothic Revival one of the most00:41:31
beautiful collections there The show was beautiful00:41:33
but so very restrained00:41:35
also somewhere in the mid-00:41:37
2000s there was a show called00:41:40
gay which was staged like a00:41:43
chess game, all the clothes also had00:41:46
ponytails and crowns so that the00:41:49
chess pieces could be read and the00:41:52
production of this show itself was just like a00:41:54
ballet, it was just practically staged00:41:56
and the clothes was amazing and it was, in00:41:58
my opinion, a milestone, so he worked until just the sixth00:42:03
year, in my opinion, from the very beginning, he00:42:06
worked with the wonderful stylist Kitty00:42:09
Yingling who, of course, was in fact00:42:12
further women in general in his destiny and00:42:15
career that she was with from the very beginning she00:42:17
worked with him and of course she was great. She also00:42:20
stylized it all00:42:21
[music]00:42:47
I thought it was a great book, there was blood under the00:42:49
skin. Yes, I was on vacation, I remember in00:42:52
Italy, I took this book with me and thought,00:42:54
Well, I’ll stretch it out over 10 days, a little at a time, but00:42:58
in the end it turned out that I read it in two00:43:00
and a half days or three,00:43:02
and it seems to me that there is a lot00:43:06
about Philip Tracy, too. In my opinion, they were00:43:09
friends and collaborated because00:43:13
they were sitting in the same building that they00:43:16
actually belonged to and they forgot whether she00:43:18
opened up or Tracy actually00:43:19
helped to him and McQueen they are yes They were00:43:21
friends and he always made all the headdresses00:43:23
for his Collies in particular00:43:26
and for that collection that was00:43:29
dedicated to the memory of the forgot vlog which00:43:31
was called Lady Blue So they even00:43:34
went out to bow together at the show00:43:36
dedicated00:43:37
and forgot it was already After her death,00:43:45
which happened very shortly before the00:43:48
suicide of Alexander McQueen himself.00:43:51
After some time, it seems to me that00:43:53
this was such a trigger mechanism. And in a00:43:56
series of some reasons why,00:43:58
in fact, everything happened, what00:44:00
happened was the00:44:01
passing of my mother. But this is in my opinion a00:44:05
few days before his00:44:07
death, of course, he committed suicide on the eve of00:44:10
the funeral, and00:44:13
this was all preceded by a00:44:16
collection that I think may00:44:19
not be with you, but in the world is considered00:44:23
one of the most legendary collections of00:44:26
Alexander McQueen, which is called00:44:32
And by the way, it was the first one a00:44:34
live broadcast was organized because00:44:37
the premiere of Lady Gaga's single Bad Romance did not take place there.00:44:39
Lady Gaga wrote about this00:44:41
on Twitter, in my opinion, and00:44:43
everything of course collapsed because00:44:46
everyone came. It seems to me that the inhabitants of the planet listen to00:44:48
Lady Gaga's new track, a00:44:51
collection that consists of the famous00:44:54
armadillo legs which the00:44:56
models refused to walk in. Well,00:44:58
because there00:45:01
she is at all, why I don’t really like her00:45:03
because she is the most from my point00:45:05
of view as inhuman and in her00:45:08
they are actually turned into00:45:10
some kind of creatures like that as far00:45:13
as I remember As far as I remember the thought00:45:16
was is that now evolution00:45:17
will turn back a little, yes, yes, people00:45:20
will begin to turn back into sea00:45:25
creatures. In general, there will be reptiles in all00:45:28
sorts of ways. And this was a version of how00:45:32
it could all look from here and the horns are00:45:34
some incredibly long legs and00:45:37
incredibly the printing of everything because00:45:42
there was plumage and scales00:45:45
in the computer,00:45:47
it was all some kind of incredible00:45:49
graphics and everything looked as00:45:52
fantastic as possible and very, very Lady Gaga00:45:55
because the badromance video actually00:45:57
demonstrates everything. I think the outfits are from00:46:00
this collection and it was an incredibly00:46:03
popular video and in fact, it00:46:06
seems to me that popular culture generally found out00:46:09
who Alexander McQueen was, to be00:46:12
honest, thanks to this because it was the00:46:15
artist who met her designer.00:46:18
Unfortunately, this happened quite late,00:46:19
but nevertheless this meeting took place and00:46:22
I, of course, am a person interested in fashion since00:46:25
some kind of youth I knew who00:46:28
Alexander McQueen was, but I didn’t have such an immersion in00:46:31
the character before the release of this single.00:46:34
After that, I began to00:46:37
seriously study his biography and00:46:40
his other collections, what he said, he00:46:43
said that this would be my last00:46:45
collection, why somehow not it was explained that it turned out00:46:48
six months after Yes, the show00:46:52
was in October February, he passed away and the00:46:54
suicide note was written,00:47:02
in fact, in such a tragic00:47:05
way the life of Alexander McQueen ended00:47:12
[applause]00:47:16
[music]00:47:23
after his death, the house began to be ruled by someone00:47:27
who worked with him almost from the very00:47:29
beginning. She studied too with Martinse, but00:47:33
she studied textile design That00:47:35
is, she was engaged in prints,00:47:36
and he was looking for an assistant and their00:47:40
teacher for her general matchmaking and she00:47:43
tells a terrible story of how she00:47:44
came00:47:46
to him for an interview in this basement and00:47:49
expected any questions and he00:47:53
asked her, believe me are you in UFO,00:47:55
this made her laugh a lot and that’s it, he took00:47:59
her to work and literally on the very first day00:48:01
he gave her some very difficult assignment,00:48:03
but how did she take it herself to make a bias cut00:48:06
skirt from a00:48:10
princely check, which in itself is difficult and a00:48:12
plus it was necessary to sew a hidden00:48:14
zipper there and that’s it. He gave the task and left, and00:48:17
she cried and called her mother and asked00:48:20
how to do it. And in general, it00:48:22
wasn’t so stressful00:48:24
to enter and she said that it was then that00:48:27
she realized how much he himself00:48:29
could absolutely everything by hand, in general, to00:48:31
tailor everything to make shoes Well, that’s all up00:48:35
until today, she is the00:48:36
creative director of the Alexander00:48:39
McQueen brand, the collections are quite successful for00:48:43
the brand, but as they say and As we see,00:48:46
We of McQueen himself are not exactly00:48:49
very much there,00:48:50
she of course retains some shapes, but00:48:54
she can’t have ideas, of course, she00:48:57
uses some kind of00:48:59
inventions,00:49:01
which by the way, we’ll include among them: bumstors,00:49:04
bumsters, shoulder, saddle, accentuated00:49:08
waist, very often, a wide skirt, it00:49:12
seems to me, and this dress, in fact,00:49:14
which was painted by famous robots00:49:17
on the belt on the chest, this is also a very shape00:49:22
recognizable, everyone always seems to me to be able00:49:24
to guess that this is McQueen because these are00:49:25
legendary shots, a legendary thing in general.00:49:28
In fact, lately I often00:49:31
see quotes on this topic in class on00:49:34
a belt, as if a skirt was raised,00:49:37
of course, a virtuosic play with textures Yes,00:49:41
yes,00:49:44
this is just that that's what I'm saying when00:49:46
all this was superimposed transparent the00:49:49
most gentle lightest came00:49:52
these all of course contrasts00:49:55
juxtaposition with which he of course00:49:57
masterfully played in 2011 after the death of00:49:59
Alexander McQueen The theme of the Edgal ball00:50:03
was, in fact, Alexander McQueen00:50:05
and there you could see all his mousse00:50:08
all his fans talent and models in00:50:12
Alexander McQueen's outfits I just00:50:15
don't remember at all To be honest,00:50:17
the exhibition was actually one of the00:50:19
most successful I didn't see it there I00:50:21
saw00:50:24
the exhibition started in Victorialbert it started there it00:50:27
was such a success that they00:50:30
extended it several times and there in the end00:50:32
they left it open even at night so that00:50:34
cool people would probably go to00:50:37
this exhibition at night it was originally00:50:40
planned at night during his lifetime it kind of00:50:43
coincided then in London they brought00:50:46
it to London and already there I saw it She00:50:49
was absolutely amazing and they told me in the00:50:51
quiz itself that00:50:53
they didn’t have anything more successful. This is the00:50:56
most successful project, in fact, this is where00:50:59
I think we’ll end our00:51:00
Today’s dialogue with Olga Mikhailovskaya00:51:03
about the life and work of Alexander McQueen00:51:05
Oh, thank you very much for such a valuable00:51:08
information literally a person who00:51:11
communicated with Alexander McQueen friends00:51:13
you know now you rarely see such people and00:51:18
thank you very much for this lovely00:51:20
invitation that you have the opportunity to00:51:22
turn in your hands And in general to visit at00:51:26
least like this It’s amazing that it was preserved00:51:28
show you see how great it is friends Thank00:51:30
you very much for watching We hope You00:51:32
liked our video, be sure00:51:34
to Like this video, subscribe00:51:36
to our channel, write about which other00:51:40
famous designers or cult00:51:41
personalities you would like to hear a story about Well,00:51:44
see you soon in the next video00:51:46
bye00:51:47
[music]Description:
Один из самых таинственных дизайнеров в истории современной моды — Александр Маккуин. Каждый его показ был наполнен особенными смыслами, каждая коллекция вызывала восторг и ужас одновременно. Как талантливому Ли удалось стать культовым Александром Маккуином и навсегда вписать своё имя в модную историю? Об этом нам расскажет легенда фэшн-журналистки — Ольга Михайловская, когда-то взявшая у дизайнера интервью. Подписывайтесь на Модный подкаст: VK https://vk.com/modnypodkast Rutube https://rutube.ru/channel/24561268/ Дзен https://zen.yandex.ru/id/622dfb587100660c52b3a66a Узнавайте все новости проекта и читайте нас в Telegram https://t.me/modnypodcast Социальные сети: Алексей Сухарев https://t.me/suharevstyle Ольга Михайловская https://t.me/frontfashion ТАЙМКОДЫ 00:00 — Начало 01:19 — Становление Легенды 09:38 — «Jack The Ripper Stalks His Victims» — волосы, вшитые в одежду 11:05 — Знакомство с «сумасшедшей богачкой» 15:39 — Как Ли стал Александром Маккуином 17:46 — «Изнасилованная Шотландия», «Dante» и женщины Маккуина 24:13 — Маккуин и Givenchy 27:38 — Визионер: культовые коллекции Александра Маккуина 28:19 — «N.13» — мода и технологии 30:09 — «Voss» — лицо фэшн-индустрии 33:17 — «Supercalifragilistic» — романтизированные образы сильной женщины 34:34 — Нулевые: запуск мужской линии, второй линии — McQ и продажа бренда Gucci Group 35:58 — Интервью с Александром Маккуином 40:36 — «Вдовы Каллодена» — голограмма Кейт Мосс 41:18 — Любимые показы Ольги: «The girl who lived in the tree», «It’s only a game» 42:22 — «Plato’s Atlantis» — последний показ Александра Маккуина при жизни 42:48 — Сотрудничество с Филиппом Трейси и трибьют Изабелле Блоу 47:18 — Alexander McQueen после Александра Маккуина 47:25 — Сара Бёртон — правая рука Александра и нынешний креативный директор бренда 50:03 — MET Gala. «Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty»
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