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шить дома
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курсы шитья
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ателье строка
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дефекты брюк
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как сделать брюки по фигуре
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Subtitles

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  • ruRussian
Download
00:00:03
video I want to talk about defects in the
00:00:06
fit of trousers and how to correct them. The
00:00:09
first thing I would like to say is that it is
00:00:11
worth understanding and accepting that initially
00:00:15
using only the mathematics of
00:00:17
drawing it is impossible to create such a pattern
00:00:19
and which would fit perfectly for
00:00:21
absolutely any figure because we are all
00:00:24
different and everyone’s beauty is also different,
00:00:27
so after we have created the
00:00:29
basic pattern we need to do a fitting and
00:00:32
during the fitting we can correct those
00:00:34
defects if there are any and adjust
00:00:37
our products exactly to the figure completely;
00:00:39
the skill of fitting clothes according to the figure this is
00:00:42
like the next stage after mastering the
00:00:45
skill of tailoring,
00:00:47
the skill of designing, and only then is the
00:00:49
skill of fitting clothes to the figure. In my
00:00:52
personal opinion, you are exactly like this because
00:00:54
to make a good fit to the figure
00:00:56
you need, firstly, a lot of experience,
00:00:58
observation and analysis, that is, you need to be
00:01:02
able to correctly visually
00:01:04
analyze the figure in order to notice those
00:01:07
features that need to
00:01:09
be emphasized, that is, this is the same skill
00:01:12
that requires time like any
00:01:15
other skill, for example, drawing, we don’t come
00:01:19
to the first lesson immediately after it, we
00:01:21
immediately make claims on ourselves
00:01:24
to write masterpieces, we naturally will
00:01:28
spend During this time, we will regularly
00:01:30
go to classes to practice placing our
00:01:33
hands, acquiring this skill. In the same way,
00:01:36
with the skill of fitting to a figure,
00:01:37
you need to treat this as creativity,
00:01:39
and I literally compare it with
00:01:42
sculpture because we started with
00:01:46
only a flat piece of fabric, which,
00:01:48
in principle, itself is just a
00:01:51
set of threads and there is a blank sheet of paper from
00:01:54
which we can make a pattern and only
00:01:56
then using all this we give the fabric
00:02:00
volume and shape, trying to repeat the
00:02:03
anatomical volumes of the human body
00:02:05
to emphasize its advantages,
00:02:08
mastering the skill of fitting clothes according to the figure,
00:02:10
some are trying to achieve perfection,
00:02:13
they bend a little the edge of adequacy,
00:02:16
what I mean, that is, there
00:02:20
should be some freedom in the trousers so that
00:02:23
we can move in them, sit down, walk
00:02:26
naturally, when standing straight, these
00:02:30
trousers should not have any folds, folds,
00:02:32
wrinkles, twisting, but when
00:02:37
we move, all this should appear
00:02:39
because we are moving and the fabric
00:02:42
along with us, if we absolutely
00:02:44
completely get rid of some freedom of
00:02:47
tissue that we have under the buttocks,
00:02:49
then it will be difficult for us to be like how
00:02:51
to move and when we sit down in
00:02:54
them, our waistline will move,
00:02:55
exposing the buttocks, this is
00:02:59
not necessary if we will get rid
00:03:01
of absolutely freedom of fabric on the band line,
00:03:05
that is, the groin,
00:03:06
then it will be difficult for us to simply walk and
00:03:09
move our legs in these trousers, and in
00:03:10
principle, in essence, these trousers will cease to
00:03:14
be trousers and will become leggings or
00:03:16
leggings, therefore, mastering the skill of fitting
00:03:19
trousers to the figure with limbs to
00:03:21
perfection don’t go too far on
00:03:23
this line of adequacy; the first thing that greatly
00:03:26
influences the fit of the blue is that they are
00:03:28
competent, so I talked about this, and in
00:03:32
another video, now as for making
00:03:34
adjustments to the basic pattern of trousers,
00:03:37
firstly, there is no such construction
00:03:39
that would fit absolutely any
00:03:42
figure; a construction that fits for
00:03:45
most figures up to according to such
00:03:48
there are very good constructions, but how to
00:03:51
take into account, for example, such a difference if we
00:03:54
take two different people and each of
00:03:57
them has a hip volume of 95 centimeters, for example,
00:04:00
only one person has these 95 cm,
00:04:02
this can be due to the width of the hips and the
00:04:05
other there may be narrow hips but
00:04:07
convex buttocks, absolutely the same
00:04:11
volume of hips, but the construction will be different for these two figures,
00:04:14
we will need to make
00:04:16
different adjustments to fit these
00:04:19
trousers on two different figures, and of course,
00:04:22
adjustments need to be made some kind of
00:04:24
base, that is, initially we must
00:04:26
have the basic basic construction of patterns and
00:04:28
trousers, a link to our online master class
00:04:31
on constructing the base of a trouser that is
00:04:34
suitable for most figures,
00:04:35
I will leave in the description under the video and
00:04:38
before making adjustments after fitting,
00:04:41
I want to talk about such nuances
00:04:43
that can be initially taken into account
00:04:46
immediately when constructing the drawing if, when
00:04:49
constructing the front part of the trousers, you already
00:04:52
see in the drawing that you have too
00:04:54
much distance and too big a
00:04:57
difference between the waist volume and the hip volume,
00:05:01
and here you get a distance of more than
00:05:05
four centimeters, a
00:05:09
problem such as wrinkles and
00:05:12
folds on the side seam may appear,
00:05:15
to avoid this we do the following, we
00:05:20
reduce this distance, we add
00:05:23
here along the waist line, for example, how much do
00:05:26
we need, let’s say for one pastry, we will
00:05:28
add two centimeters, we will increase the
00:05:31
waist line by two centimeters
00:05:36
and these two centimeters we will need to
00:05:39
remove the
00:05:40
dart, the second dart, that is, now
00:05:43
we will not have a single twig abc
00:05:45
so that to make these two darts, we
00:05:48
divide the distance along the waist into approximately 3
00:05:52
equal parts, we build verticals
00:06:00
and these will be our
00:06:05
bases for the darts, then the dart that is
00:06:09
closest to the center will also be
00:06:12
11 centimeters in length and also
00:06:21
two and a half centimeters in depth
00:06:23
there was a tuck before this
00:06:27
[music]
00:06:32
that is, we won’t have this pastry anymore,
00:06:33
but the second tuck we will have is
00:06:36
2 centimeters deep because we
00:06:39
added two centimeters of gold and
00:06:41
now here we need to remove them and
00:06:46
we will have it shorter nine centimeters
00:06:50
[music]
00:06:59
so we get 2 darts
00:07:01
and the hip line will be
00:07:05
smoother; we will have this line
00:07:08
and the new line here will no longer have such a
00:07:13
steep transition; the waist line will
00:07:21
also need to be aligned as we did
00:07:23
before smoothly bring it to the dart here,
00:07:28
equalize it, and here, from the beginning of this dart,
00:07:32
also smoothly bring it here if, for
00:07:38
example, there is too much of a
00:07:41
difference, there are as many as six centimeters from
00:07:44
when it is very narrow or very voluminous
00:07:46
at the hips, then we will add here, for example, 3
00:07:49
centimeters necessary, then we have two
00:07:51
centimeters they will go along the bottom of the dart and
00:07:55
then we will need to remove one centimeter
00:07:57
here, that is, if the middle line
00:08:00
we had before was here here, now we
00:08:03
will have it here and smoothly and we will
00:08:06
bring it
00:08:08
here also to the bend of the saddle shpa
00:08:14
but it is a natural goofy We
00:08:16
will now take away this line
00:08:19
out but it will also be taken from us at
00:08:24
an angle and then our drink will
00:08:30
change and the lines will now be
00:08:35
different
00:08:38
[music]
00:08:49
[applause]
00:08:51
that is, our pattern will
00:08:54
have a completely different look with two
00:08:56
darts also if you are working on the back
00:08:59
parts and you already know move that a
00:09:05
person has too voluminous buttocks for
00:09:09
such a figure 1 darts are not enough
00:09:12
trousers will not fit such a figure well
00:09:14
so you can immediately take this into account in the drawing
00:09:17
and make adjustments
00:09:19
1 baking will be small 2 baking
00:09:23
accordingly we will when we build the
00:09:25
waist line
00:09:27
we took into account one pastry by two and a
00:09:29
half centimeters and we will need to
00:09:32
add for the second dart if we have a depth of 2
00:09:35
darts will be two centimeters then here we will
00:09:39
also add 2
00:09:41
of them then we will take away the dart of the hip line
00:09:47
we already have the other one, so if for
00:09:53
2 darts this dart will no longer be
00:09:56
located here for the son will be 2
00:09:58
if we also need to take into account the size and
00:10:02
weight, we have sizes up to 44 inclusive, then
00:10:06
the darts will be located so we
00:10:08
will need to divide the waist size
00:10:10
into three equal parts
00:10:15
and these places and will be our points for
00:10:19
constructing the bases of the darts the bases of the darts
00:10:23
we also have a parallel construction to
00:10:28
sit on the front sight this we will have places
00:10:35
for the darts of the main dart cannot
00:10:38
be the same length those closest to the middle
00:10:40
it will be longer it will be the closest
00:10:43
flap to the side seam it will be shorter
00:10:45
the top here of this dart, closer to
00:10:48
the middle, it will be about 5
00:10:51
centimeters long above the hip line, here we have
00:10:53
my hips
00:10:56
rising 5 centimeters higher, here
00:10:59
will be the top of the dart, the depth will also be two
00:11:03
and a half as it was for this
00:11:09
[music]
00:11:15
2 dart which is closer to the side cut
00:11:18
it it will be 8 centimeters above the hip line,
00:11:22
this also roughly all depends on the
00:11:27
characteristics of the figure and also on height, so the
00:11:30
depth of this dart will be two
00:11:32
centimeters because here we
00:11:34
added two centimeters, these two centimeters
00:11:37
we will remove the dart, so we have built
00:11:42
another one you. that is, now we have 2 of them,
00:11:46
this is if up to size 44, but we need to
00:11:50
take into account if our size is 46 or more,
00:11:53
then instead of baking, they will adjust a little
00:11:56
differently, that is, we will
00:11:59
also divide into 3 equal parts 1
00:12:02
pastry will also be in this place and the
00:12:04
second dart will deviate from it by
00:12:10
6 centimeters to the side, that is, measure
00:12:13
6 centimeters, this will be the edge of the next
00:12:15
baked goods, then from this mark measure the
00:12:18
depth in and wheelbarrow 2 centimeters, for example, this is how
00:12:20
we have it and these points
00:12:23
will be the correct darts in the center will be
00:12:27
the base and also on its basis we will build a
00:12:32
second dart in another place like this, that
00:12:36
is, taking into account the different sizes of
00:12:39
the position flowed out now I will outline with a different
00:12:43
color with a marker what happens
00:12:46
if, for example, very voluminous hips and how
00:12:49
I built it the first time we need the days of the
00:12:52
dart first construction for size up to 44
00:12:57
inclusive,
00:13:01
then as usual
00:13:03
[music]
00:13:07
that is, my pattern for the back part
00:13:09
will look different if it has
00:13:11
2 darts; this is for very convex
00:13:17
buttocks; another problem that may
00:13:20
appear when trying on is these
00:13:23
transverse folds that form
00:13:26
under the buttocks of one one of the reasons may be
00:13:30
this is the extra length of
00:13:31
the middle cut, that is, which goes to us in
00:13:34
the center and we need naturally, if the
00:13:37
extra length we need to reduce the height of
00:13:40
the seat, the back parts and so what we will
00:13:44
do to change the pattern,
00:13:46
I will show it in this
00:13:49
pattern format in the menu so that it is
00:13:52
clear so that the pattern is
00:13:54
completely visible, firstly we need three
00:13:57
auxiliary lines, the first line is
00:14:02
our middle line, the second line is our
00:14:04
seat line and the third line we
00:14:08
draw vertically through the
00:14:12
dart
00:14:15
to the seat line, we also need to
00:14:20
sit on the
00:14:23
saddle Swede to make an inclined one,
00:14:26
roughly divide this distance in half
00:14:29
from the hip line to the seat dome
00:14:32
and to the intersection of the seat line with the
00:14:37
middle line and here we need to draw an
00:14:41
inclined line,
00:14:47
that is, now our task is what we
00:14:49
need to cut the length of this saddle seam, it is
00:14:52
too long
00:14:54
so to shorten what we are doing we are
00:14:59
now cutting we cut the pattern along the line of the
00:15:03
seat,
00:15:04
that is, we do not completely
00:15:08
cut from the edge the rein of this slant and
00:15:11
from the edge of the rein this is vertical
00:15:15
[music]
00:15:28
[music]
00:15:30
[applause]
00:15:31
[music] we
00:15:34
do not completely cut where you are.
00:15:41
we make an offset of about 5 millimeters
00:15:45
and glue it, then here the edges will be on
00:15:56
top of each other and here the reason for
00:16:00
this line is about one and a half centimeters you
00:16:05
need to go up like this, that is,
00:16:09
we were here, this triangle
00:16:11
was here now we go up like this
00:16:13
finds we get a king on top
00:16:15
of each other and thus we
00:16:18
shorten the length of the saddle seam and
00:16:21
also glue it
00:16:27
and now we need to combine these
00:16:33
two of our parts we need to make it so
00:16:37
that we can fit the side cut and the
00:16:40
saddle seam here in the center the parts
00:16:47
will find each other on a friend, this is
00:16:49
normal, we need
00:16:53
our lines to coincide along the edges along the axis of the front sight
00:16:57
and along the side seam
00:17:00
[music]
00:17:02
here we will need to align the side
00:17:05
seam if it has shifted;
00:17:07
also here in the middle, glue the paper from the bottom
00:17:10
so that our line is exactly
00:17:16
because now it’s not even
00:17:23
and we’ll need to level it,
00:17:29
for this we’ll need to glue a small piece of
00:17:31
paper and make a
00:17:34
straight line for the seat and that’s what we did,
00:17:38
we left the side seam the same length,
00:17:42
but it’s one and a half centimeters, remember, we
00:17:45
made it here by plus one and a half
00:17:47
centimeter
00:17:48
we reduced the saddle seam, here we have the
00:17:51
middle line, you see it
00:17:54
has shifted, it has become here at an angle, already
00:17:59
at an angle, so we need to draw a
00:18:02
new middle line so that it is
00:18:07
even, here the middle line is new,
00:18:12
so we made adjustments to the
00:18:16
patterns of the back part and shortened the
00:18:20
saddle seam,
00:18:21
if the trousers are narrow in the buttock area and the
00:18:25
middle seam cuts into the buttock, then
00:18:28
our middle seam is the mouth and we
00:18:32
need to lengthen it, as we will
00:18:34
lengthen it using the saddle seam,
00:18:36
we can do it this way, we
00:18:40
take a horizontal straight line below the
00:18:44
waist about 15 centimeters and along this
00:18:50
line we make a cut from the saddle seam to the
00:18:55
side seam not completely and spread it apart by the
00:19:02
required number of centimeters, that
00:19:06
is, how much we want to lengthen the
00:19:08
saddle seam, so we spread it apart, that
00:19:13
is, the side seam does not change in length, the
00:19:15
saddle seam changes in
00:19:18
length and we need it will be alloyed with a thread and
00:19:23
outline the pattern of a different type,
00:19:26
naturally the middle line we will need to
00:19:29
change if our pattern
00:19:32
takes on a different look, then
00:19:40
our middle line becomes uneven,
00:19:45
so we draw it again on a new
00:19:50
pattern, our middle line will already go
00:19:53
under here, this is already for us the old line does not
00:19:57
fit; if necessary, add a
00:19:59
little width to the crotch seams on the
00:20:02
back half of the trousers and at the same time
00:20:04
the population of the seam,
00:20:05
we can do this at the same time
00:20:12
repeating the
00:20:13
saddle seam that we had, lengthening
00:20:17
it as much as we need, for example,
00:20:19
by one or one and a half centimeters and
00:20:25
expanding along the crotch seam
00:20:29
going out to the knee line and then
00:20:33
the line will be maintained
00:20:37
[music]
00:20:43
our cries take on a different look the
00:20:47
saddle seam is lengthened and widened along the
00:20:50
crotch seam if the arrows on the trousers
00:20:54
turn out the road reason may
00:20:56
be high hips and we need to
00:20:59
draw auxiliary lines on the front and back parts of the trousers
00:21:06
these horizontal lines should be
00:21:09
perpendicular to the middle line,
00:21:13
we lower ourselves below the waist line by 10
00:21:18
centimeters
00:21:22
[music]
00:21:32
and also step back from the center to the side, the
00:21:38
value divided by 8 minus 4,
00:21:43
calculate the value and step back from the center on the
00:21:48
side of the side seam on both the front and
00:21:52
back parts and we draw a vertical line
00:22:02
and we need to cut the patterns at the
00:22:05
horizontal line from the side seam to the
00:22:08
vertical line
00:22:10
[music]
00:22:15
and from now on, either cut to the horizontal line
00:22:24
and along the side seam
00:22:35
we move apart like this and add along the thigh
00:22:38
here the missing length our reason
00:22:41
was that it is too high hips,
00:22:44
here we didn’t have enough length, so we
00:22:48
move them apart here, and here in this section we get
00:22:52
an overlap, we must
00:22:56
measure the amount of overlap and along the
00:23:01
vertical line we push the
00:23:05
natural ones on the front on the back
00:23:07
part by the same amount,
00:23:13
we will outline a new part and here is the
00:23:17
amount of overlap that we
00:23:19
got it, for example, if one and a half
00:23:20
centimeters, that is, one and a half centimeters,
00:23:22
we will need to add at the waist
00:23:25
[music]
00:23:31
in the hip area, we can add width
00:23:35
if necessary
00:23:39
[music]
00:23:48
if, on the contrary, the arrow
00:23:52
is wrapped inside the crotch seam, then
00:23:56
with the pattern we do exactly the opposite in the
00:24:02
same way, we cut
00:24:05
horizontally from the side seam, here we have a
00:24:10
cut vertically, that is, everything is as
00:24:13
it was before, only we will not
00:24:16
push it apart along the side seam,
00:24:19
but on the contrary,
00:24:25
it will overlap,
00:24:27
that is, remove the excess length because the
00:24:30
reason for the arrow inside the collar
00:24:35
is sagging on the sides, so we
00:24:40
need to remove the extra length along the side seam,
00:24:42
that is, we made an overlap in this way
00:24:45
also on the back part by the same
00:24:49
amount, naturally, on both the front and
00:24:52
back parts, we will trace the new
00:24:56
pattern again at the moment when we
00:25:03
overlapped the
00:25:04
vertical section here on the contrary, there was a
00:25:08
discrepancy, we need to measure
00:25:10
by what amount the discrepancy occurred here
00:25:12
and remove this value along the
00:25:16
waist line,
00:25:17
if here we got one and a half
00:25:19
centimeters, then along the waist line of
00:25:21
the blow, a centimeter should be removed also on the
00:25:23
back part
00:25:25
[music]
00:25:43
if there is a pepper and in the groin
00:25:45
fold then this means that
00:25:49
we have a long line band
00:25:50
this means that we need to shorten the line of the
00:25:54
saddle seam along the front part for
00:25:57
this we just have this rounded
00:25:59
neckline we need to make it a little smaller,
00:26:02
that is, draw the middle seam with a
00:26:05
less concave line, this is how
00:26:13
we reduce the line saddle seam along the
00:26:16
front part,
00:26:17
if the trousers sag in the front and something
00:26:21
like a bag of freedom is formed in this area,
00:26:24
then the reason may be that
00:26:27
the figure is tilted forward, that is, such an
00:26:30
object and that even a stoop is possible
00:26:33
and we need to shorten the front
00:26:35
half of the trousers, that is, in this case we
00:26:38
work only from the front half of the trousers,
00:26:43
we need to draw a horizontal line
00:26:46
somewhere 12-14 centimeters below the waist line
00:26:56
and we also need to draw a vertical line
00:27:00
retreating about 8 centimeters from the
00:27:03
side seam
00:27:10
and we need to cut the pattern from the middle
00:27:14
seam to the side
00:27:16
and from the waist line along verticals and these are
00:27:20
horizontals,
00:27:32
we cut the lines not completely and we need to
00:27:36
shorten the pattern in this area,
00:27:37
so we take and overlap the
00:27:43
parts on each other vertically,
00:27:49
here too there should be an
00:27:51
overlap, here there is an overlap and here there is an overlap and the
00:27:59
hip line remains along the length is the same
00:28:02
as before, and here we have a
00:28:04
shortened line, the edges of the vertical cut
00:28:07
overlap each other and we need to
00:28:09
measure the distance of this
00:28:12
overlay and add along the waist line, that
00:28:16
is, what we have left we need to
00:28:18
add
00:28:19
[music]
00:28:28
[music ]
00:28:36
[music]
00:28:38
the dart naturally remains with us, so
00:28:43
we shortened the
00:28:45
front part here in the middle, if
00:28:50
the trousers are pulled at the hips and pull
00:28:53
the side seams forward, then we need to
00:28:58
enlarge the front part, we need to draw a
00:29:03
line in the middle on the front part,
00:29:07
we already have it and 3 auxiliary ones lines
00:29:09
that will be perpendicular to
00:29:11
this middle line less than the middle
00:29:18
further horizontally lines on the
00:29:22
saddle seam line 2 horizontal
00:29:26
knee lines and 3 in the middle between these two
00:29:32
horizontally
00:29:38
here are our auxiliary lines now
00:29:41
we need to cut along horizontal
00:29:44
lines
00:29:45
from the middle to the side seam and to the crotch seam
00:29:50
and along the vertical line from the top to the
00:29:55
last horizontal
00:29:58
[music]
00:30:27
we cut not all the way, now we need to
00:30:30
expand the vertical cut from the top
00:30:34
to the second horizontal to the required width,
00:30:39
that is, how much we are missing from our
00:30:44
pattern and
00:30:46
we need to make it so that we
00:30:48
get a wedge on top and a wedge on the bottom that
00:30:51
is, this separation, the divergence, should,
00:30:56
as it were, disappear in the center, we
00:30:59
expand the pattern
00:31:01
from below and from above the pattern remains
00:31:04
with the same dimensions
00:31:07
[music]
00:31:21
well, now we will have a new middle line
00:31:25
in the center, this is how we
00:31:30
expanded the front part if the trousers are
00:31:33
too tight on the stomach went in
00:31:35
stitching the belt pulls to the bottom this
00:31:39
may be due to the incoming belly
00:31:41
so we need to work with the front
00:31:44
part and increase it a little and for
00:31:48
this we draw an auxiliary
00:31:51
horizontal
00:31:53
below the waist line by 15 centimeters and an
00:32:00
auxiliary vertical retreating from the
00:32:03
side seam 10 centimeters to the side
00:32:08
again we cut from the middle line to the
00:32:13
side seam and from the waist vertically and
00:32:19
horizontally and we need to move apart
00:32:27
increase the middle seam here for this we
00:32:32
lift this part so
00:32:37
we
00:32:38
move the parts apart both horizontally and
00:32:42
vertically we need to measure the amount of
00:32:46
discrepancy here vertically and
00:32:49
removing the gold leaf,
00:32:51
now we need to add the missing
00:32:54
width, for this we need to draw a
00:32:58
horizontal auxiliary line at
00:33:01
knee height perpendicular to the
00:33:03
middle line and cut the pattern along the middle
00:33:08
line from the top to the knee line, and so
00:33:12
another auxiliary line horizontally to the
00:33:15
knee line
00:33:18
and cut we will cut along the middle line
00:33:27
along the middle line and along the knee line
00:33:31
from the middle of the side to the side seam and
00:33:36
in steps, well, we also need to cut
00:33:40
from the top, that is, it turns out that we
00:33:45
have completely cut off the part along the
00:33:49
middle line and now we move the parts apart to the
00:33:55
required width;
00:33:58
this cut piece should be a
00:34:02
continuation of the codpiece as a continuation the
00:34:04
middle line and the waist line are
00:34:12
spread to the required width along the
00:34:17
auxiliary lines, we fix
00:34:21
the pattern and draw a new one
00:34:32
[music]
00:34:35
[applause]
00:34:36
[music]
00:34:48
that is, our pattern will now have a
00:34:51
completely different look and we need to draw a line
00:34:55
in the middle
00:34:58
and again
00:35:03
[music]
00:35:06
and you can make 2 darts
00:35:09
[music]
00:35:15
if the peculiarity of the figure is such that the shape of the
00:35:19
legs is U-shaped, that is, in the knee area
00:35:23
they do not diverge much and then
00:35:26
taper again towards the ankles, there
00:35:28
may be such a problem that the trousers
00:35:31
wrinkle along the crotch seam, that is, in the
00:35:34
middle in the center and at the same time may even
00:35:38
be stretched along the side seams, what do we
00:35:42
need to do? We will need to
00:35:44
make a cut on the front and back parts.
00:35:46
We take the front-back part and
00:35:49
on the knee line from us, with the knee line,
00:35:55
we make a cut from the crotch seam to the center and
00:36:05
from the side seam to the center, but without cutting
00:36:09
to the end and we do the same on the back
00:36:13
part,
00:36:20
we did this and we need to tilt the
00:36:24
pattern like this,
00:36:25
shift it literally
00:36:29
by about five millimeters, this
00:36:34
way we repeat the shape of the legs in the
00:36:38
knee area, here we had wrinkles and we
00:36:42
removed
00:36:44
that we have the excess fabric that
00:36:46
was here, we remove them by overlapping the parts on top of each other,
00:36:49
but here, on the contrary, we give more
00:36:54
fabric; now on a scale, it
00:36:56
naturally turns out to be such a strong
00:36:58
slope;
00:36:59
cover it up on a large scale, that is, on a
00:37:02
one-to-one scale, it will be almost
00:37:04
imperceptible, that is, literally what
00:37:05
one is there a centimeter, maybe even 7 millimeters,
00:37:08
also depends on the figure, this will be
00:37:10
enough and so
00:37:11
we make such a tilt and happy and the
00:37:20
same thing, of course, will need to be done on the
00:37:22
back part, also where
00:37:28
we open the side seam, where
00:37:32
on the contrary we make an overlap on the crotch seam
00:37:38
and naturally we will already have a pattern
00:37:42
another view, we need to outline it,
00:37:49
leveling
00:37:50
all the corners
00:37:53
[music]
00:37:59
[music]
00:38:04
and our pattern will have a
00:38:10
completely different look with a slope like
00:38:14
this and the middle line we will
00:38:21
also need to draw again like this
00:38:29
and the same thing in
00:38:33
reverse if the shape of the legs is the opposite has an
00:38:36
X-shape, that is, they taper
00:38:41
towards the knees and diverge at the
00:38:44
ankles,
00:38:45
we do the same thing as we did before
00:38:47
only in the reverse order, if we give you the
00:38:51
pattern along the crotch seam
00:38:53
like this on top of each other and spread it apart
00:38:57
along the side, now it’s the other way around, that is,
00:39:00
we we repeat the shape of the legs, made an overlap
00:39:04
along the side seam,
00:39:07
moved it apart step by step
00:39:10
and glued it, we do this on both the front and
00:39:13
back parts
00:39:16
[music]
00:39:26
this way
00:39:29
[music]
00:39:43
we must move and move apart in the same way
00:39:47
on both the front and back parts so that
00:39:51
later we have seams coincided, that is, if
00:39:54
we shift by one centimeter, then on both
00:39:56
parts
00:39:59
our pattern will then look like this,
00:40:01
but naturally we will need to draw the middle line
00:40:06
again because it
00:40:09
will already be shifted
00:40:16
[music]
00:40:22
[music]
00:40:25
I hope that I have said enough in order
00:40:28
for the fit of your trousers to become even
00:40:30
more ideal, continue to hone
00:40:33
your skills, practice, but I
00:40:35
will try to help you with this with love for
00:40:37
you and your creativity bye
00:40:40
[music]

Description:

В этом большом видео я подробно расскажу о том, том, как исправить дефекты посадки брюк и скорректировать выкройку. Это наш личный метод работы. Наш онлайн мастер-класс "Базовое лекало брюк" http://project5690334.tilda.ws/bruki_online Подписывайся на нашу страницу Инстаграм: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser Скачивай бесплатно лист для зарисовки эскизов https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VrBi...%E2%80%8B/edit Заходи на наш сайт: http://stroka.store/%E2%80%8B Посмотри наши онлайн мастер-классы: http://project5690334.tilda.ws/trikotazniy_costume_online Присоединяйся к нам В Контакте https://vk.com/stroka_studio И просто становись нашим другом! Музыка: https://www.epidemicsound.com/

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