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00:00:00
public catering yes, yes, that same
00:00:03
Soviet public catering, how much irony
00:00:08
at the same time we put love into this
00:00:11
word But remember
00:00:13
daily cabbage soup borscht Pozharsky cutlets with
00:00:18
mashed potatoes Well, and of course
00:00:21
dried fruit compote Why, with all the obvious
00:00:24
shortcomings of that food, its taste we cannot
00:00:29
forget
00:00:30
what we ate and what Soviet people drank and what
00:00:35
they ate. Is it true that the cooks and
00:00:38
waiters mercilessly diluted
00:00:42
the alcohol and stole
00:00:46
So the history of Soviet cuisine through the eyes
00:00:50
of eyewitnesses is
00:00:52
a mug like this, it pours this
00:00:55
much warm beer into a
00:00:58
kettle with warm water and tops it up
00:01:04
even if in Soviet times there
00:01:07
was more bread in the cutlets than meat
00:01:15
cutlets everyone knew what they add and
00:01:20
mix
00:01:22
on good
00:01:31
[music]
00:01:49
few people know that the
00:01:52
popular actor Boris Shcherbakov began his career
00:01:55
in the very early 70s in a kebab shop on
00:01:58
Neglinnaya, a student at the Moscow Art Theater School. He got a part-time
00:02:01
job at night
00:02:04
and immediately at two positions of a bouncer and a
00:02:07
watchman, I remembered my first work shift
00:02:10
for the rest of my life and the waitresses
00:02:14
began to get to know me What’s your
00:02:17
name I say
00:02:19
very well Yes, you’re new and the
00:02:23
shift ends, they start getting ready to
00:02:25
leave everyone and everyone puts it on
00:02:29
me, so I’m sitting at the table home and one puts it on
00:02:34
20 kopecks the second leaving 20 kopecks 3 And there are 12 of them,
00:02:38
I think, well, I’m Rich But these were
00:02:42
not all the advantages of working in
00:02:45
such a chic place; the main bonus of the
00:02:47
kebab shop was, of course, the food immediately after
00:02:51
closing, the cooks supplied Shcherbakov with
00:02:53
provisions for a whole company of hungry
00:02:56
students and they collect for me here's a
00:03:00
bag of pieces of
00:03:02
shish kebab Well, when the waitresses
00:03:05
bring them some bitten somewhere not
00:03:08
and somewhere absolutely someone didn't finish it
00:03:10
and brings a whole paper bag like that
00:03:13
they are these pieces
00:03:18
tomorrow students Feed the hungry yourself You
00:03:24
usually eat it for us by the waiter What's left is a
00:03:26
side dish solid side dish Sorry, this is
00:03:30
that the client does not give the history of Soviet
00:03:33
restaurants smoothly continues the
00:03:36
pre-revolutionary history in the twenties,
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many of the ever popular
00:03:42
establishments were opened. Well, for example, in 24, a restaurant
00:03:47
on Arbat Prague,
00:03:49
the most popular restaurant was transformed
00:03:51
into a Mosselprom canteen, this is where
00:03:55
Kisa
00:03:58
Vorobyaninov from novel by Ilf and Petrov
00:04:00
12 chairs veal cutlets 22
00:04:10
However,
00:04:12
restaurants were marked up during the NEP,
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restaurants became a refuge for the criminal
00:04:18
element, a
00:04:21
decent person didn’t stick his nose in here, and there
00:04:24
was no money, everything changed in the
00:04:27
sixties, now the
00:04:29
state policy was different,
00:04:33
every Soviet person has the right to have a
00:04:36
cultural dinner anywhere even in the
00:04:40
city center or at the station Very
00:04:43
nice
00:04:47
What will you order actress Olga
00:04:50
Volkova came to the restaurant for the first time
00:04:53
solely for work, she needed to
00:04:56
look at the image of her character, a
00:04:58
waitress named Violetta, for the film by
00:05:01
Eldar Ryazanov Station for two and I
00:05:04
went to the Vitebsk station, I sat far away
00:05:07
once there was a shift and began to wait and then
00:05:11
she appeared,
00:05:14
my future one,
00:05:17
she was
00:05:20
not carrying a tray with a dish, but herself on a tray.
00:05:25
I say Who is this to me? I was sitting next to the
00:05:28
rest of the waiters. Oh, this is our
00:05:31
artist. I say that she is an actress. No,
00:05:34
she entered the Hop U Theater Institute.
00:05:37
me photo memory visual memory I
00:05:41
took a photo of it
00:05:43
Soviet times a waiter is difficult but in
00:05:46
general a prestigious profession
00:05:49
others are worse worse our work No they won’t
00:05:53
marry us MGIMO graduate
00:05:57
Yuri Kabaladze admits that at one time
00:06:00
he dreamed of working in a restaurant, he even
00:06:03
asked a waiter he knew to form a patronage,
00:06:06
so to speak, that’s
00:06:11
how I work in London I know manners, so I
00:06:15
was a good waiter, he tells me,
00:06:18
You know, we have one like you.
00:06:20
The dude worked, he brought change to the clients
00:06:23
on a plate still covered with a napkin. The
00:06:25
local waiters beat him up. Why do
00:06:28
we need clients to be corrupted by a completely
00:06:30
different mentality? The waiter had to
00:06:33
deceive you
00:06:34
on two already depended Sympathy or
00:06:38
antipathy for you
00:06:39
[applause] it’s
00:06:42
not we who are obliged to pay you, but you who are obligated to pay us There is
00:06:44
this Soviet joke: a client asks the
00:06:48
waiter for the bill,
00:06:51
checks that all the prices are the same And in
00:06:55
one column he reads pyr not pyr 3 rubles
00:06:58
almost like that he asks the waiter
00:07:02
the waiter says
00:07:03
the pyrnier will pass will not pass did not pass
00:07:06
we cross out
00:07:09
in the Soviet Union themed restaurants appear
00:07:12
in them
00:07:15
the cuisine of different nations of the world is widely represented in Moscow
00:07:18
Uzbekistan they feed pilaf they serve manti and
00:07:22
shish kebab Vilnius is of course the Baltic States
00:07:25
zrazy zeppelin menu and Lithuanian borscht in
00:07:29
Prague in 1954 a restaurant
00:07:32
started working again Under the old name, the
00:07:34
traditional emphasis on Czech cuisine was
00:07:37
then put on in a restaurant on
00:07:40
some holidays, birthdays, it
00:07:43
could be some kind of anniversary, or just with
00:07:45
friends we’ll go to a restaurant there, plus
00:07:49
everything else we needed
00:07:53
in the restaurant to have a place for ourselves order,
00:07:57
you know that you could come to a restaurant
00:08:00
not only when you have money
00:08:03
in hand, but when you can book a table.
00:08:06
But even in places where
00:08:09
theoretically they let you in without coupons and
00:08:12
phone calls, you just can’t
00:08:14
dine for the simple reason there are
00:08:17
always queues, but knowledgeable people quickly found
00:08:21
secret passages
00:08:23
met my Putin acquaintance I
00:08:26
was about 18 years old
00:08:27
traveling was in Moscow we met
00:08:29
by chance we are going cdl I think he is simple he is a
00:08:33
Miner and we went There is a queue on the
00:08:36
sidewalk like this he came in there the doorman is
00:08:39
standing there he takes it and takes out a metal
00:08:41
steering wheel it was
00:08:42
604 probably So
00:08:46
he knocked the ruble on the glass and the doorman
00:08:50
opened the door,
00:08:52
noble guests
00:08:54
are comrades, pre-order the
00:09:00
restaurant in the cinema house is the most prestigious in
00:09:05
the capital, but you can’t get here even for
00:09:08
bribing the doorman
00:09:10
[music]
00:09:11
regular visitors only members of the Union
00:09:15
of Cinematographers
00:09:18
celebrate high-profile premieres here And
00:09:21
arrange banquets for the chosen ones public
00:09:24
Well, the dish very soon
00:09:27
gets the name of its ardent
00:09:30
fans. Well, for example,
00:09:34
Vyacheslav Tikhonov loved beetroot soup very much and beetroot soup
00:09:38
[music]
00:09:40
will later be called beetroot soup
00:09:43
in Tikhonov’s style, but the real legends of this
00:09:46
restaurant will be dumplings and meat according to the
00:09:49
special recipe of director Sergei
00:09:52
Gerasimov.
00:09:56
the thing was, you know, how to
00:10:00
marinate it And he knew that she
00:10:02
would add a little drop of her lemon and it would become
00:10:05
somehow magical. Although let’s tell the truth, back
00:10:09
then the best pieces went to the
00:10:12
top, that is, as if according to party
00:10:14
orders in the City Committee of the district committee. Well, for the
00:10:18
intelligentsia already not very good, but in Moscow still
00:10:20
not, after all, in the House of Cinema, the House of
00:10:23
actors is still good food, the
00:10:26
minus of the restaurant of the house of cinema was the
00:10:28
lack of music. But the big plus of the
00:10:31
billiard rooms
00:10:34
where they played balls was Boris Khmelnitsky and
00:10:37
Stanislav Govorukhin, who had been drinking, the filmmakers,
00:10:40
by the way, did not behave the best of ordinary
00:10:42
workers screenwriter Borodyansky Once
00:10:45
got into a fight here with the future People's
00:10:48
Artist Mikhail Kazakov of the deceased Shen,
00:10:52
we were sitting in the cinema house in a restaurant from
00:10:55
Danel and
00:10:57
mentioned the two of us
00:11:01
and then Misha got hooked and he said, too, they are
00:11:05
all sitting like this, they arranged it here, you might
00:11:08
think with the sour ones, like they died from
00:11:12
Dostoevsky or Tolstoy you might think that I
00:11:19
very much idolized Shukshin and
00:11:23
still love white people, and I say they jumped up
00:11:26
and began to fight, they separated us, they pulled us apart, it’s
00:11:29
clear that only the creative Soviet Elite walked in the restaurant of the cinema house.
00:11:33
Well,
00:11:37
where do the rest go if they have
00:11:39
extra rubles? You know what if
00:11:42
three rubles appeared for you,
00:11:46
you already
00:11:48
had the right and opportunity for one evening,
00:11:52
first of all, to eat,
00:11:55
even have a little drink and most importantly dance,
00:12:00
and hadith Pearl by the sea or puffed
00:12:05
corn
00:12:09
[music]
00:12:12
[applause]
00:12:16
feeding the people busy with work, studying
00:12:19
or serving in the army was the primary
00:12:22
task of the Soviet leadership after the
00:12:25
end of the civil war, the beginning of
00:12:27
peaceful construction, the question posed
00:12:29
squarely where How and with what and the answer was found
00:12:34
kitchen factories they appeared in many
00:12:38
large cities and they solved the problem of
00:12:41
globally freeing women from slave
00:12:44
kitchen labor and at first they coped with it
00:12:48
very successfully
00:12:54
first second there jelly
00:12:58
please, I remember how we went to the first
00:13:02
ship, they filled the second second, you believe 3
00:13:04
with compote or jelly, you take it home at home,
00:13:08
then they came home from work and ate. It was
00:13:12
very convenient and very tasty, a
00:13:14
huge room, as if Pacific
00:13:17
liners were taking
00:13:19
Soviet workers on board, each factory
00:13:22
occupied 2-3 floors or even four there
00:13:26
were warehouses, back rooms of workshops where
00:13:29
semi-finished products were prepared, dining halls with hundreds of
00:13:33
seats, but these factories did
00:13:36
not take root for a long time, a card
00:13:40
system was introduced, that is, after all, despite the entire
00:13:43
economy,
00:13:54
these are negative emotions for people who
00:13:56
simply could not come from the street as before
00:13:58
eat because all products are
00:14:00
strictly limited there is nothing to wish for
00:14:03
boys the restaurant is closed for
00:14:05
special services What a pity And I
00:14:08
invited an American colleague
00:14:11
but the American way out of
00:14:15
this situation was the opening of
00:14:17
departmental canteens every
00:14:21
self-respecting enterprise considered it its duty to
00:14:23
equip a place where employees could
00:14:26
eat at lunchtime
00:14:31
[applause ]
00:14:33
for butterflies skip-the-line canteens Bali
00:14:38
set lunch departmental canteen
00:14:40
this is a classic of Soviet catering there
00:14:44
will definitely be a queue and everyone has a
00:14:47
plastic tray of infusions in their hands there is a
00:14:50
choice of
00:14:51
seasonal vegetables Carrots cabbage beets we will
00:14:55
definitely take carrots
00:14:58
tomatoes and cucumbers will only be in summer or
00:15:02
autumn
00:15:04
we take dried fruit compote
00:15:07
here, too, there will definitely be a choice of the
00:15:10
first
00:15:11
cabbage soup, today look for rice soup, cabbage soup,
00:15:14
please, half a
00:15:17
cutlet, all kinds of meatballs Well,
00:15:20
here today is a Kiev cutlet, I’ll take a
00:15:23
Kiev cutlet with mashed potatoes
00:15:25
[music]
00:15:27
beauty,
00:15:28
all this pleasure cost about
00:15:33
580 kopecks, cheap and cheerful
00:15:39
three hodgepodges three longuet we got
00:15:42
milk cutlets potato
00:15:45
conversations
00:15:47
and compotes 81 kopecks someone will say that it’s
00:15:52
tasteless And then they did
00:15:55
n’t really bend over the taste of the canteens The main thing was
00:15:58
to provide hot meals to people
00:16:00
employed in production and the
00:16:03
country’s leadership successfully coped with this task
00:16:05
when I arrived in Moscow after Tbili
00:16:08
himself was such a
00:16:10
spoiled boy, his mother cooked very well
00:16:12
and for me he turned out to be the only one who
00:16:15
visited these tables, which
00:16:18
by the way had a lot of such catering in the center, but
00:16:21
as it turned out, he was an unpretentious person. I
00:16:24
loved it. There was always stewed cabbage, there
00:16:26
was plenty of stewed cabbage, today it’s hard to even
00:16:29
believe that it was innovation, the
00:16:33
self-service system took root with great
00:16:35
difficulty, the People's Commissar of the Food Industry, it
00:16:38
Stas Mikhai literally forced the
00:16:41
Bolsheviks to take it in their hands under their noses, as the
00:16:44
former chief culinary officer of the
00:16:46
city of Moscow Sergei Ivanovich Protopopov told us,
00:16:49
Mikoyan invited the next meeting
00:16:51
Mikoyan talks about this, that
00:16:54
fast food is self-service,
00:16:57
that everyone should approach with
00:16:59
take a tray and protopov, he says, our
00:17:02
old Bolsheviks, they ate there, they drag their feet there,
00:17:04
but where can they get with these under their noses,
00:17:08
but you try Sergei, she
00:17:12
said they
00:17:13
tried it and it turned out Comrade Mikoyan
00:17:17
knew how to convince all the most serious
00:17:19
reforms in the public catering system of the
00:17:21
USSR were associated with his name and in the
00:17:25
mid-thirties she Stas Ivanovich
00:17:28
went to adopt best practices in
00:17:30
America for a whole month and was literally
00:17:33
stunned
00:17:35
when Mikoyan returned to Moscow. He
00:17:38
created a real revolution in
00:17:41
public catering; sausage lines appeared at enterprises
00:17:44
and few people know he
00:17:48
brought 25 vending machines to the capital for
00:17:52
the production of hamburgers, and in
00:17:55
1937, in the very center of the city, you could
00:17:58
easily buy a real hamburger,
00:18:00
just called the dream Moscow hot
00:18:04
cutlet. Well, in fact, it’s all the
00:18:07
same bun and in the middle there’s a cutlet, but the
00:18:11
workers somehow didn’t particularly like this initiative.
00:18:14
And also
00:18:17
Mikoyan really liked that in America
00:18:21
they start the day with a glass of orange
00:18:24
juice, but oranges in the Soviet Union
00:18:27
weren’t very good, so they decided to replace
00:18:31
them with tomatoes
00:18:32
[music]
00:18:35
And by the way, you guessed it, tomato juice has become very
00:18:41
popular in all catering outlets
00:18:45
in the Soviet Union, a
00:18:47
GOST system is being developed state
00:18:50
standard, in other words, mandatory
00:18:52
requirements for the composition and quality of
00:18:54
products What is monosodium glutamate in the
00:18:57
Soviet kitchen they didn’t even know any
00:19:00
flavor enhancers, synthetic fats and
00:19:03
other harmful additives in public catering
00:19:06
food and there was no trace of you come to the
00:19:10
same canteen If it is written on the price tag that
00:19:14
it's liver
00:19:16
You know it's liver If it says fish
00:19:20
It means you know it's fish If it
00:19:22
says pollock it means it's pollock And if it
00:19:25
says cod it means it's cod they're
00:19:28
something else but now sometimes I
00:19:31
come and it says cutlet the first thing that
00:19:35
comes to me from where in Moscow
00:19:37
The Institute of Nutrition appears
00:19:40
now that for the second course you will prescribe a
00:19:42
rabbit with white sauce, you will eat it, no,
00:19:47
you will give it to me,
00:19:48
you are going, or even for lunch, they only give you one knife with a
00:19:51
whole staff of scientists,
00:19:54
they calculate the required ratio of
00:19:56
proteins and carbohydrates, and for the calorie content of the
00:20:00
workers’ food, a
00:20:04
real struggle is really unfolding with those
00:20:07
500 calories that were there in the
00:20:09
eighteenth year
00:20:10
there was an increase in the increase in the
00:20:13
calorie content of this diet and already somewhere
00:20:16
in the early thirties I remember, in fact,
00:20:18
there was a whole article
00:20:22
2500 calories we reached this
00:20:27
cutlet with potatoes
00:20:33
cutlet with potatoes with potatoes with rice
00:20:36
then we will change change It’s impossible, it’s true that
00:20:39
evil tongues claimed that Soviet
00:20:42
catering killed traditional Russian cuisine,
00:20:45
this is of course not entirely true, and haute
00:20:48
cuisine is gone. Ryabchikov was not served in our canteens,
00:20:51
but almost all the dishes remained. Although they
00:20:55
acquired other names,
00:20:57
for example, Boyarskaya stew began to
00:21:00
be called soup, potato soup, gorbyur,
00:21:03
simply bean cutlets, we decided - this is
00:21:06
chicken with milk sauce, the recipe for
00:21:09
some dishes has also changed, the
00:21:11
classic pickle soup has noticeably
00:21:14
fallen in price
00:21:15
[music] the
00:21:16
good city of our
00:21:21
native Moscow will be opened wide to people, a
00:21:23
bright sign of the Khrushchev Thaw youth
00:21:26
cafes The first cafe, it’s
00:21:29
called youth cafe, opened in Moscow
00:21:32
on Gorky Street, another popular
00:21:35
place has appeared A little later it’s Lyra on
00:21:38
Bolshaya Bronnaya, here a fashionable
00:21:41
and cheerful crowd gathers, even
00:21:43
dudes in bell-bottomed trousers, young people are attracted by the
00:21:46
democratic scenes of the music. But the main thing is, of
00:21:49
course, the bar where they served a cocktail of
00:21:52
champagne Blair. That’s it, or a mistake, the
00:21:55
ruble 49 means this cavalel was
00:21:58
mixed in. Everything, in my opinion, everything some
00:22:00
alcoholic drinks were all there, but also plus
00:22:03
champagne, the main ingredients, it
00:22:05
was so light and airy, and
00:22:09
with ice, and with some lemon,
00:22:11
so that it was possible, and they also gave me a straw.
00:22:13
These are five cocktails. Write it down,
00:22:16
you'll crawl out of this establishments, but
00:22:20
nevertheless, all this was a
00:22:22
huge success, the poet Alexander
00:22:26
Shaganov spent his student years in
00:22:28
another cafe, it was called North, but it was
00:22:31
also located on Gorky Street, and the
00:22:37
cocktails
00:22:38
Benedictine liqueur, brownish in color, the same
00:22:41
color as you ate, which means they were
00:22:43
prepared, also enjoyed particular success there. then such a
00:22:46
cherry, so to speak, champagne there is
00:22:48
ten kopecks I still remember And
00:22:51
the champagne Yes, in principle, the assortment
00:22:53
was small It was just
00:22:56
like this moment of communication
00:22:58
[music]
00:23:05
on Thursday Fish Day Well, who doesn’t
00:23:09
remember it It was introduced at the very top
00:23:12
it was officially sanctioned by a
00:23:14
special resolution of the CPSU Central Committee dated
00:23:19
October 26, 1976. reasons. And there were
00:23:24
two reasons: shortage of meat products. Well, the second was that the
00:23:28
Soviet Union at this time
00:23:31
was becoming a world leader in catching
00:23:34
ocean fish; the people responded with a
00:23:38
lively ditty:
00:23:41
silver hake got married, took ice fish
00:23:45
from their daughter was born Lenya my
00:23:49
name was Lenya this is Leonid Brezhnev
00:23:53
cutlets or capelin balls boiled
00:23:57
hake mackerel cod its fillet in the store
00:24:02
cost only 77 kopecks per kilogram but the
00:24:05
fish menu was not particularly
00:24:08
varied in general the fish dish our
00:24:11
citizens did not really like, the
00:24:14
only exception being herring under a fur coat and pollock
00:24:18
was generally fed to cats, I didn’t at all. Well, I
00:24:21
always prefer meat to fish. Moreover,
00:24:24
we had good fish at that time. Well,
00:24:26
if only in some special places.
00:24:28
And so it was the horror of some
00:24:30
frozen fish and in a huge The fish
00:24:33
store on Kolensky Prospekt, now
00:24:36
Novy Arbat, had a huge advertisement
00:24:38
that was etched in my
00:24:40
memory, every person wants to be healthy, strong, brave,
00:24:43
and the fish of silver eyelids will help him in
00:24:45
this, so I just
00:24:49
wanted to run and eat an
00:24:53
incredible amount of this hake, and after all, barely
00:24:57
consuming fish grew steadily and in the
00:25:01
eighties our citizens already ate
00:25:03
10,100 g of fish per capita per year,
00:25:07
it’s really unclear. Is it just a clean fillet
00:25:10
or was it considered the whole fish with the backbone,
00:25:13
bones and head? A
00:25:22
Soviet person, however, like a Frenchman
00:25:24
or an Englishman, as you know, he’s not a
00:25:27
fool to drink, only he drinks they say everywhere
00:25:31
that the Minister of Culture Ekaterina Furtseva is
00:25:35
very happy for the opening of wine
00:25:37
glasses, it’s not good for our people to
00:25:39
sing on children’s playgrounds in
00:25:42
the entrances or in public gardens, it’s necessary to be culturally so that there’s
00:25:44
a roof over your head and there’s a
00:25:47
snack and there’s a snack in the wine glasses, here you go processed
00:25:50
cheese sprat
00:25:54
sausage with egg sprats
00:25:59
And of course
00:26:00
pickled cucumber
00:26:04
such sandwiches with sprats
00:26:09
sisters were a very convenient thing because a
00:26:13
person comes home from work But why
00:26:17
say that Well, there’s a dressing room Yes,
00:26:19
great, I’ll come in and drink my 100 grams and
00:26:22
calm down I relaxed a little after
00:26:24
work I feel good I’m happy I’m going home
00:26:28
where my wife is waiting for me with lunch with borscht,
00:26:32
another sign of Soviet catering,
00:26:34
shops under the guise of cooking, they were
00:26:38
extremely popular among the population,
00:26:41
they just didn’t sell semi-finished products,
00:26:43
ready-made salads, side dishes, baked goods, you
00:26:47
could get a good entrecote weighing
00:26:50
125 g for 37 kopecks for someone - it was a little expensive,
00:26:54
but then not only bachelors or business travelers ate quickly and deliciously
00:26:58
from culinary products,
00:27:00
but also entire
00:27:03
families; this was by no means considered shameful;
00:27:06
the actress Tatyana Bronzova still
00:27:10
remembers the taste of those same dinners; my
00:27:14
mommy also couldn’t cook; she
00:27:18
went to work and my dad already retired;
00:27:21
they were 25 years apart. He went in the
00:27:25
morning to the cookery that was next to
00:27:28
us and there he took both the first and the second, and
00:27:32
it was so tasty, so tasty, and he
00:27:37
picked up the third and he fed us all day long.
00:27:40
So from this cookery every day
00:27:43
When mom was free, she cooked and
00:27:47
so we ate this cuisine
00:27:51
Midnight stop on the outskirts of the light
00:27:54
cafe There are also gypsy girls and military riding
00:27:57
breeches, poet Alexander Shaganov, also a
00:28:01
student of Soviet public catering, he grew up
00:28:04
on Taganka, Pozharsky cutlets from a
00:28:07
neighbor's cookery in his family
00:28:09
were sold out with a bang. my childhood But
00:28:12
it was with these Pozharsky cutlets that
00:28:14
I passed and I just adore them. I
00:28:18
had a big sweet tooth as a child. The two of us were left with a sweet tooth,
00:28:21
so he was preparing the cutlets when dad
00:28:24
turned away
00:28:26
with sugar sprinkled
00:28:28
[music]
00:28:29
another feature of those years,
00:28:32
catering outlets named after the main dish they
00:28:35
sell there for example, cheburek
00:28:38
dumplings, pies in St. Petersburg,
00:28:42
crumpets were very popular,
00:28:43
by the way, in Moscow they were called
00:28:46
donuts, a curious detail, there
00:28:49
were no chairs in such places so that visitors would
00:28:52
not sit for a long time, there were more than enough people willing to eat,
00:28:55
eat standing and run on, a
00:28:58
glass of tea, quickly eat a crumpet and
00:29:02
get tired, it seemed to us that this delicious
00:29:04
Although the whole diet that lasted 16 years ended in
00:29:08
disaster for me because my
00:29:11
intestines were very damaged because of this
00:29:13
eating On the run anywhere I almost
00:29:18
ended up on the operating table I was then
00:29:20
cured by a good doctor
00:29:22
[music]
00:29:25
Yuri Kabaladze still remembers the place of the
00:29:29
Crimean cafe in the cultural park it was
00:29:33
here that cutlets were sold for a ruble forty,
00:29:36
then I took two at once and was poisoned today, I’m
00:29:40
sure they were fried in machine oil, there is
00:29:44
not a single person who would not have been poisoned by the
00:29:48
cruel Soviet public catering because it was
00:29:51
necessary to serve such dishes that my mother’s
00:29:53
native is a
00:30:03
separate issue - this is abuse in the
00:30:06
field of public catering theft of a body kit and even an
00:30:09
outright violation of food preparation standards,
00:30:11
all of this, of course, happened. Well, for
00:30:14
example, meat in the canteen was taken at one
00:30:18
price, and Vedomosti
00:30:21
indicated a completely different one. Well, all the left
00:30:26
pocket revenue is
00:30:28
now present, fresh beer
00:30:31
has just been delivered and roach will be served, and a roach has
00:30:34
just been caught as a
00:30:37
classic genre of diluted beer, by the way, they
00:30:41
could dilute it at your request
00:30:43
if they sold it, let’s say in such a
00:30:46
stall on the street in the cold, then diluted it with
00:30:50
boiling water, of course. Well, for
00:30:54
regular customers there was heated beer
00:30:57
in a kettle,
00:31:00
you can have a mug
00:31:02
[music]
00:31:05
of course heated
00:31:07
[music]
00:31:09
Yeah
00:31:13
about
00:31:17
that what is needed
00:31:20
screenwriter Alexander Borodinsky
00:31:23
glorified a special passion for beer while working
00:31:25
on the film Afonya, very soon he
00:31:28
had a favorite Beer point, a pub
00:31:32
near the Sportivnaya metro station, a big bevar, he
00:31:35
was so cultured,
00:31:40
I can’t what is it like, an allergy, why a disease,
00:31:44
such a skin itches
00:31:47
beer I say jug I just don’t
00:31:51
dilute me, I’ll pay double the price when he
00:31:55
started saying that he’s been insulting him for a long time
00:31:57
and left through the decanter, he says how
00:32:01
they ordered,
00:32:06
they say that instead of cognac they brought
00:32:09
vodka tinted with tea solution,
00:32:12
sour cream was consistently diluted with kefir
00:32:16
And in general there were dozens of other very
00:32:18
ingenious ways to deceive gullible
00:32:21
consumers,
00:32:22
however The Soviet Union was, after all,
00:32:26
a place where ideal order reigned and
00:32:29
there were no violations in the process of
00:32:32
preparing lunches and dinners, the holy of holies of the
00:32:36
Kremlin kitchen, here
00:32:38
dishes were prepared for the top officials of
00:32:41
the state, each of course had their
00:32:44
own preferences, one thing was united by the
00:32:47
men, they were all noble meat eaters,
00:32:50
for example, Gorbachev loved most
00:32:52
lamb Brezhnev himself was an avid
00:32:55
hunter and after a successful hunt he loved to
00:32:58
fry and taste wild boar,
00:33:03
sit down, comrades, disembark, but
00:33:06
perhaps the greatest lover of
00:33:08
good food was Stalin, for example, he
00:33:11
adored dumplings made from several types of
00:33:14
meat, but for some reason those
00:33:17
same Stalin daily
00:33:20
cabbage soup went down in history, you Ask why the daily allowance
00:33:24
because it took a long time to prepare the sauerkraut so
00:33:26
that the sauerkraut would release its juice and become
00:33:30
softer, they would
00:33:32
freeze it
00:33:34
[music]
00:33:36
Well, then when it was needed, the cabbage soup would
00:33:40
be defrosted, heated up on the stove and
00:33:44
poured into plates;
00:33:53
buckwheat porridge there was everything from
00:33:55
all the fish and salmon and salmon to black caviar
00:34:00
Red it was all the Georgian cuts of
00:34:03
smoked Basturma and everything you wanted There
00:34:06
was a lot of meat there was also game
00:34:09
for the distinguished guests the leaders of foreign
00:34:12
countries held receptions in the faceted
00:34:15
chamber the cuisine was always Russian in scope
00:34:18
Tsarsky, first of all, trays of fish came out:
00:34:22
sturgeon, salmon, glassassina, and of
00:34:25
course, caviar. Kremlin chef Anatoly
00:34:28
Galkin recalls that she was especially
00:34:30
impressed by this magnificence of Margaret
00:34:33
Thatcher.
00:34:35
I then met very often and spent a
00:34:37
lot of time saying that
00:34:40
after my visit to Russia, I was on a diet for a month.
00:34:46
she took such good care of herself like Flight
00:34:49
Maxim, she also always said what she
00:34:52
says, you think she doesn’t feel like it, she
00:34:53
says lard speaks with scrambled eggs,
00:34:57
ordinary Soviet people didn’t go on diets,
00:35:00
and why, since the mid-
00:35:03
eighties, was there a lack of food in stores
00:35:06
on the eve of the holidays at the
00:35:10
culinary department? kilometer-long
00:35:13
queues you have to grab your favorite
00:35:16
cake to please the family bestseller
00:35:19
But this is, of course, a cake Bird's milk or not
00:35:23
by appointment, it was a purchase of a
00:35:25
furniture set of some kind Yes,
00:35:29
and by
00:35:30
the way, by the way,
00:35:35
I have a friend of this line who is a big
00:35:37
specialist in this thousands of milk here is the
00:35:39
Fourth line at the Cheryomushkinsky
00:35:41
grain plant Here it is, exactly the
00:35:45
same quality that was from those years,
00:35:51
I didn’t order anything, don’t worry, a
00:35:54
little gift from our chef, you
00:35:57
think the cake is in the shape of the head of the main
00:36:00
character in the film City Zero, the crazy
00:36:03
fantasy of the screenwriter Not at all for
00:36:06
Soviet confectioners there was nothing
00:36:09
impossible in the city zero almost
00:36:12
nothing Everything in life was invented and the cake told it
00:36:16
[music]
00:36:17
He never performed somewhere for him then
00:36:21
the management gave him a gift of a cake in the shape of
00:36:24
his head and presented it to
00:36:30
cut and break off This and drink tea
00:36:34
Years passed On the horizon
00:36:38
major changes were already looming, the collapse of the USSR, the sovereignty of the
00:36:42
former union republics in the late 80s,
00:36:45
the poet Alexander Shaganov went into a cafe at the
00:36:48
Belorussky railway station, and it was here that
00:36:51
lines were born that became a
00:36:53
farewell greeting to the passing era. Lev
00:36:57
Zheglov and Volodya Sharapov sat at the table
00:36:59
for good reason, because it means this is
00:37:03
how this is the aesthetics of Gleb Zheglov.
00:37:06
This means that in these post-war years, who in
00:37:09
this cafe
00:37:11
history froze, some kind of very
00:37:14
strong coffee was offered to us,
00:37:17
some kind of egg with mayonnaise, it means there
00:37:19
at this time it’s later than 24 hours and we
00:37:22
trust it, it means Yes, just like that so
00:37:25
we had dinner
00:37:29
[music]
00:37:39
they catch the gang and the leader,
00:37:43
instead of simple Soviet public catering
00:37:47
they came to operational restaurants and then
00:37:50
we had unprecedented abundance
00:37:54
and Asian European cuisine
00:37:58
and fast food restaurant chains appeared and today
00:38:01
you can dine as you please, both for
00:38:04
expensive and for cheap, but Strange thing
00:38:07
then in Soviet times the taste of the products
00:38:10
was different, it seems they were both tastier and
00:38:14
healthier
00:38:16
Nostalgia Tell me, to some extent,
00:38:20
yes But on the other hand, back
00:38:23
then cutlets and sausage were made from
00:38:28
meat

Description:

Общепит. Назад в СССР. Система общественного питания в Советском Союзе вызывает самые противоречивые чувства – от слёз умиления до жесткого неприятия. Ещё бы… Ненавистная манная каша в детском саду, вечная перловка в армии, в юности – разбавленное пиво. Чтобы отобедать в приличном ресторане, люди стояли в очереди часа два. Но ведь было и немало плюсов. Например, целые институты питания высчитывали необходимое количество калорий для работников умственного труда и составляли диетическое меню для санаториев. Все выпуски "Назад в СССР": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09lvxM3XARo&list=PLgWn407gTfdTMbod-iEACOCjJ3Da4nMmo "Центральное телевидение" - это телевидение вечных ценностей: документальные и исторические фильмы, ток-шоу, программы о науке и культуре, медицине, путешествиях, расследования той или иной сферы общественной деятельности.

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