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швейное мастерство

мастеркласс по шитью

кройка и шитье

рукоделие

выкройки

пошив одежды

обучение швейному делу

швейные принадлежности

швейное оборудование

видеоуроки

самостоятельный пошив нижнего белья

шьем белье сами

коэффициент растяжения ткани

растяжение ткани

выкройка бюстгальтера

выкройка лифчика

построение выкройки

базовая выкройка

строим выкройку

строим выкройку бюстгаль

Арбадоева Мария

Мария Арбадоева

шитье

как научиться шить

курсы кройки и шитья

00:00:06

hi you are on the armada channel and in general

00:00:09

together and I am Moriar badoeva the third lesson is

00:00:11

building a bra but before we

00:00:14

start building a pattern let's

00:00:16

get ready first

00:00:18

write down on a piece of paper the measurements that will be

00:00:20

required specifically for the bra

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namely chest girth girth under the chest

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center of the chest height not because breast height

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neckline

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second you need to take into account the

00:00:34

stretch coefficient of fabrics links to videos how to

00:00:38

take the correct measurements and how to take into account the

00:00:40

stretch coefficient you will find in the

00:00:41

description of this video

00:00:43

after you find the

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stretch coefficient you need to calculate the

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horizontal measurements with it, in our case

00:00:50

this is chest girth girth under the bust and

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center of the chest third you need to find one

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2 horizontal measurements and also 1 4

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chest girth 4

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calculate the solution of darts 1 solution is the

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solution of the upper dart it is

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calculated by the formula chest girth

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divided by 12 the second solution is the

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solution of the lower darts it is calculated

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by the formula 1 2

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chest girth minus one the second girth

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under the chest

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and of course, prepare a paper, a ruler,

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pencils and round ones, do you have any

00:01:33

of those? It’s okay, you can do

00:01:35

without them, well, let’s start with

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all the pencils and a ruler,

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paper, I use graph paper

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because it’s easier and round patterns for

00:01:53

me they are like this if you don’t have them,

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I repeat, there’s nothing wrong with that,

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so proceed

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in the lower right corner, put point a from

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point a, you need to put a

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straight line horizontally to the left equal to 1 2

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chest girth, put point b from point a,

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from point b you need to put a

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vertical line straight up equal height will

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not be loaded put point c and point c1

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point c and point c1 connect to each other

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horizontal straight line segment bc and

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segment ac1 must be divided in half

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put points d.

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and point d and point and connect each

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other with a horizontal straight line from point c and

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point c 1 set aside vertical

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straight line height of the neckline

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put point e.

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connect point and and point f with a

00:03:57

horizontal straight line,

00:04:00

we got

00:04:02

a grid on which we will build our

00:04:05

bra, now on the right side of our

00:04:08

grids we will build a cup and

00:04:12

so

00:04:14

from point c1 set aside 1 centimeter to the left put a

00:04:19

point all the way from point c1 set

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to the left 1 4

00:04:29

chest girth we get point n from the point and

00:04:37

also put it to the left 1 4

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chest girth plus one centimeter put

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point m point m and point n connect

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each other with a straight line

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so that the line is longer

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after point m by three and a half

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centimeters

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we get point n 1

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from point c1 put one second

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center of the chest to the left, we get point c2 from point

00:05:39

c2 draw a vertical straight line down until it

00:05:47

intersects with line

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ab.b. put a dot and 1, then we find the

00:05:56

calculation of the lower dart, divide it in half

00:06:03

and put the result obtained from the

00:06:09

dot and put a dot p to the left and right.

00:06:21

we connect point l with point c2,

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point k with point c2, we have

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our tuck, extend the segment to c2

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upward until it intersects with the segment

00:06:43

e.f.

00:06:50

put point

00:06:52

k1 next, you need to build a solution for the

00:06:57

upper dart from point k1, put

00:07:03

the solution of the upper dart to the right, put point

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co2, measure the segment c2 to 1 using a

00:07:23

ruler, put the result obtained from point

00:07:30

c2

00:07:32

to point k2, this way we level the

00:07:44

clay of our upper darts, of course

00:07:49

we put a point to 3,

00:07:55

with the help of a round face, you need

00:07:59

to connect the point to a

00:08:01

smooth concave line also with one

00:08:07

point

00:08:08

hp. . n1 with a smooth concave line,

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we, as if using a face, drew the

00:08:22

circumference of our chest,

00:08:26

also connect point n1ce with point to 1 with a

00:08:33

smooth concave line and connect

00:08:39

point to 3 with point yours,

00:08:43

we have built a cup, then we will

00:08:48

build a belt with you, we will start from the central

00:08:52

part from point c1, lower down one

00:09:03

centimeter,

00:09:04

put point c3,

00:09:11

connect the point all the way to point c3 with a concave

00:09:16

line so that at point c 3 the

00:09:24

angle is almost 90 degrees,

00:09:32

segment c2 to extend and down, extend and

00:09:42

down by one centimeter

00:09:52

we get point r. r

00:09:59

connect to point a smoothly and with a concave

00:10:03

line so that at point a google 90

00:10:08

degrees what I am circling is the central

00:10:18

part of the belt,

00:10:24

please note that. c3

00:10:27

can, depending on the type of bra,

00:10:31

go down, this is what we do when

00:10:34

modeling, we build the side part of the belt,

00:10:43

measure the son segment with a ruler,

00:10:51

divide by 3, the

00:10:53

result obtained is put aside from point c

00:10:57

to the right, put point p

00:11:05

from point p, put up a vertical

00:11:10

line from one centimeter to three

00:11:14

centimeters, how much exactly set aside

00:11:18

depends on the size of the breast if the chest

00:11:21

is small

00:11:22

one centimeter the average chest is 2

00:11:25

centimeters and the large breast is 3 centimeters

00:11:32

in our case we set aside 2 centimeters

00:11:36

we get point p 1 then we need to

00:11:48

take our clasp measure its width for

00:11:56

me two and a half centimeters the

00:11:58

result obtained is

00:12:00

divided by 2 and set aside from points d

00:12:04

up and down

00:12:11

we get point d1 and . d2 from point d 2

00:12:23

set aside to the right a horizontal straight line

00:12:28

one centimeter 5 millimeters we get

00:12:34

point d 3 connect point d 1 with point d

00:12:44

3 with a straight line

00:12:51

connect point p 1 with point n1 smoothly

00:12:56

curved line

00:13:00

I do this using a pattern you can

00:13:04

do it by hand

00:13:10

we connect point d 1 with point p1 smooth

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concave lines segment c2 and extend

00:13:29

down by one centimeter

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we get a point connect point d 3

00:13:41

with point y with the main concave line also

00:13:53

in mind the cup additionally with a colored

00:13:57

pencil so that you can see where

00:14:00

we have the side belt we got the side

00:14:06

part of the belt note that .

00:14:15

l n 1 to 1 c 2 to 3

00:14:22

h&k c2 we return to l this is our cup

00:14:30

point p as well as c3

00:14:36

and we return to p this is the central part of the

00:14:41

belt where c3

00:14:44

and this is the fold line it is not cut.

00:14:52

ul n 1 b 1 c 1 d 3

00:15:01

y this is the side part of the belt the side part of the

00:15:10

belt can also be modeled as

00:15:13

the central part of the belt as well as a cup

00:15:15

it can vary depending on the

00:15:20

type of bra the section l y and k p

00:15:26

can also be longer depending on

00:15:30

what kind you want the width of the belt the width of the

00:15:34

belt is determined from lines p1 n1 to

00:15:38

line d3

00:15:40

mind we built with you a basic

00:15:46

pattern for a bra today you

00:15:50

learned how to build a basic pattern for a

00:15:52

bra based on it you will be able to

00:15:55

model all types of bras

00:15:57

and how to do this we will look at

00:15:59

subsequent videos when we already

00:16:02

sew it directly

00:16:04

if the video was useful, like it,

00:16:06

subscribe by pressing the bell so as

00:16:09

not to miss the next video bye

Description:

В данном видео подробно рассматриваем построение базовой выкройки бюстгальтера. Все остальные типы бюстгальтеров строятся и моделируются на её основе. В дальнейших занятиях я буду постоянно ссылаться на неё. Ссылки на видео полезные для построения выкройки. Как правильно снимать мерки для пошива нижнего белья https://youtu.be/N0mb5BfNCYk ЛИКБЕЗ. Как рассчитать коэффициент растяжения ткани. https://youtu.be/jeYig04AbDg Станьте спонсором канала, и вы получите доступ к эксклюзивным бонусам. Подробнее: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChwflO95uj6sJK5AdU_rVIg/join

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