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Download "Замена пыльника наружного ШРУС ВАЗ 2108-2115"

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вилисов иван
купить скутер
ваз
таз
япония
японский скутер
ремонт скутеров
тюнинг скутеров
скутер
иван
китай
ремонт
тюнинг
супротек
китайский скутер
139
18
157
152
qmb
af
qmj
qmi
af18e
139qmb
gy6
ваз 2110
самара
лада
ваз 2108
ваз 2109
пыльник шрус
шарнир равных угловых скоростей
заменить пыльник
как снять шрус
наружный пыльник
наружний шрус
привод
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  • ruRussian
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00:00:01
[music]
00:00:06
Hello everyone Today Vili Ivan is with you and in
00:00:08
today’s video I will show you how to replace the
00:00:11
boot of the outer CV joint on
00:00:14
VAZ
00:00:15
2108 2109 2110 11 12 13 14 15 In general,
00:00:21
all front-wheel drive vases, everything I
00:00:24
say in this video you
00:00:26
can find in the manual for
00:00:28
maintenance repairs to this,
00:00:30
first you need to unscrew the
00:00:32
hub nut in order to
00:00:34
unscrew it, you first
00:00:37
need to spray the welt with some kind of
00:00:38
liquid wrench or something else
00:00:41
like that, by the way, the nut is
00:00:43
tightened with a torque of 247 ton meters,
00:00:46
this is the highest tightening torque in the whole
00:00:49
car and in order to unscrew the
00:00:52
nut tightened with such a torque you will
00:00:54
most likely need a lever of a meter
00:00:57
or one and a half meters in length, and this does not
00:00:59
always work out, but I succeeded even
00:01:01
after the nut under the
00:01:03
jack was torn off and the car, it is advisable to
00:01:05
place some kind of lump under it
00:01:08
in order to so that it does not
00:01:09
turn on your head from the jack and remove the
00:01:11
wheel after removing the wheel, you
00:01:13
need to use a 17 wrench to unscrew the two
00:01:16
bolts securing the ball joint. And after
00:01:18
that, the steering knuckle together with the stand
00:01:21
can be moved to the side and, completely
00:01:23
unscrewing the hub nut, remove the drive
00:01:26
from the hub For some reason, when
00:01:28
carrying out this procedure, many people
00:01:30
unscrew the steering knuckle from the rack,
00:01:32
remove the steering tip for some reason,
00:01:35
remove the caliper, you don’t
00:01:37
need to do all this, you just need to unscrew the
00:01:39
ball joint fastening and everything
00:01:41
will be fine. After you have removed the
00:01:43
drive from the hub, turn it to the
00:01:46
side disconnects, remove the boot, in
00:01:50
my case it was torn very badly,
00:01:52
so I cut it off without a shadow of regret
00:01:55
and threw it away. Now it is necessary to knock the CV joint
00:01:58
off the drive. The CV joint is a constant
00:02:01
velocity joint and not with Gordey. Because for some
00:02:04
reason some people say the CV joint is used to
00:02:07
knock the CV joint off the shaft. I
00:02:09
used a hammer, in general, the
00:02:11
instruction manual advises
00:02:13
using a hammer and a drift, but
00:02:16
this method is only suitable when you
00:02:18
remove the drive completely and
00:02:21
disassemble it, in order to knock down the CV joint you
00:02:24
need to be precise; the main thing is
00:02:26
to hit the inner race with a sharp and strong blow;
00:02:29
in no case should you hit the
00:02:31
separator and also along the outer casing, that
00:02:34
is, the hinge body Although many people knock down
00:02:36
the hinge by hitting its body, what is
00:02:39
undesirable to do Although this also does not
00:02:41
always lead to dire consequences,
00:02:44
after removing the hinge it
00:02:46
must be washed in diesel fuel, gasoline
00:02:48
or something else generally made from it if
00:02:51
possible, it is advisable to wash out all the old
00:02:53
grease; it is also necessary to clean the
00:02:56
old grease from the shaft splines where
00:02:58
the hinge is installed and dismantle the
00:03:01
old retaining ring; after this, it is
00:03:03
necessary to remove the thrust ring
00:03:06
because it will not allow you to put on a new
00:03:08
boot; after removing the thrust
00:03:10
ring, put a clamp on the shaft, then
00:03:13
put on boot, after that
00:03:15
we install the thrust ring in place,
00:03:17
then we install a new retaining
00:03:19
ring; it is advisable to install the retaining ring
00:03:22
using grease
00:03:24
so that it is put on the shaft coaxially;
00:03:28
after the remains of the old
00:03:31
lubricant have been removed, it is necessary to fill it with new lubricant; the
00:03:34
required volume of lubricant for the
00:03:36
outer hinge is 40
00:03:38
cubic centimeters for the internal
00:03:41
80 after filling the hinge
00:03:43
with lubricant, it can be installed back
00:03:46
on the shaft; to do this, we put the hinge on the
00:03:48
splines until it rests
00:03:51
on the locking ring and then, through
00:03:53
the drift, under no circumstances hit the hinge
00:03:56
itself with a hammer because the
00:03:59
then it will be very difficult to screw the threads and the hub nut
00:04:01
through
00:04:03
the drift, drive the hinge until
00:04:06
it rests against the thrust
00:04:08
ring, the locking ring, due to the chamfer
00:04:10
inside the hinge, will compress itself and
00:04:13
eventually will fall into
00:04:16
place after the hinge has settled into place
00:04:18
place, you can, in principle,
00:04:20
add a little more grease to the boot and put
00:04:23
the boot on the joint body, then put on the
00:04:31
clamp to tighten it; it will be very convenient to use wire cutters or a side cutter;
00:04:34
the main thing is not to put in any effort so
00:04:36
as not to bite the clamp. I
00:04:39
used the side cutters that are on the
00:04:41
pliers after I fastened them clamp,
00:04:44
insert the drive back into the hub, after
00:04:47
that we screw the ball joint into place, the
00:04:49
tightening torque of the bolts is from 49 to 61
00:04:53
Nm, after that we tighten the
00:04:56
hub nut into place, we put the wheel, we lower the
00:05:00
car from the jack to the ground at the moment of
00:05:02
tightening the wheel nut from 225 to 247 Nm
00:05:07
Unfortunately, my dynamometer the key is
00:05:10
designed only for 140 Nm of
00:05:13
torque, so again it is tightened
00:05:16
using a long lever after the
00:05:18
nut is completely tightened, it must be locked, the
00:05:22
outer CV joint is finished Well,
00:05:26
that’s all for today if it was
00:05:28
useful to you This video Like
00:05:30
subscribe to the channel Wilis was with you
00:05:32
Ivan Good luck to everyone and
00:05:39
bye

Description:

Замена пыльника наружного ШРУС ВАЗ 2108/2109/2110/2111/2112/2113/2114/2115 _ Instagram: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser Группа ВК: https://vk.com/vilisovivan

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