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00:00:04

[music]

00:00:19

[music]

00:00:27

[music]

00:00:29

I’ll probably say such a strange thing, but

00:00:33

here on the edge of Russia you feel like a

00:00:37

free person,

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we really are on the very edge of the earth, there’s

00:00:43

only the ocean and the North Pole from the

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water, the village seems very tiny against the

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backdrop of the huge hills of the tundra I was looking for here

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here, at one time,

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Zvyagintsev filmed a picnic scene

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just for the sake of such views and for the sake of such an

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ocean and the sea in general, this

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life is worth living through depression,

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ending wars just so that

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it all continues to exist

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[music]

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this is the Rock under my feet, literally

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the edge of the earth there further only water

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Barents Sea poisonous ocean and the North

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Pole we are in Teriberka this place became

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hyper-popular after Zvyagintsev’s film

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Leviathan tourists come here in droves

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to see this unreal beauty

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This is Sasha Sabynina and how people live from a

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child [music]

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I every time I flew to the Russian

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north I was simply breathtaking at the

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number of beautiful

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places there, often little-explored, sometimes

00:02:27

poorly equipped at all. And for a long time it

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was impossible to even really get there

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because there were multi-meter layers of snow,

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distant cut-off villages, and so on,

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fortunately, for several years now, how companies have appeared

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that can somehow get there It’s

00:02:39

easy to deliver cars already Yes, there’s a

00:02:42

bus there now, even in theory you

00:02:43

can get there by helicopter, but

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Imagine how difficult this business is,

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yes, that is, you start doing it. You have to

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spend a huge amount of your

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money to buy this

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amount of special equipment, it’s very expensive,

00:02:57

pay a lot of taxes, but there is an

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easier way that I recommend to you.

00:03:01

If you decide to do this, arrange

00:03:03

leasing and the Alfa Leasing company will help you go through this path

00:03:05

because in reality

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this company has been creating

00:03:11

leasing products for 25 years that help

00:03:13

entrepreneurs purchase

00:03:15

vehicles or even special equipment for

00:03:18

business with a minimal investment means

00:03:21

How it works is actually very

00:03:22

very simple, for example, you are running your own

00:03:24

business or starting your own business and your

00:03:27

business needs a light

00:03:29

truck or you need some kind of

00:03:31

special transport or equipment in general, you

00:03:34

contact the Alfa Leasing company and

00:03:36

they provide you with equipment for rent on a

00:03:39

monthly basis payment That is, you pay

00:03:41

for it monthly, plus it provides you with a

00:03:44

calculation of the further redemption. Friends, the main

00:03:47

thrill is that leasing is not a loan, it is

00:03:49

much much cooler. Leasing

00:03:52

differs very favorably from a loan in that,

00:03:54

firstly, you don’t have to go to the bank, you don’t

00:03:56

have to collect a huge pile. documents

00:03:58

In addition, prilings you can save

00:04:01

on income taxes due to accelerated

00:04:03

depreciation and receive VAT deductions, and

00:04:07

Alfa leasing creates even cooler

00:04:09

advantages, you can submit an application online

00:04:11

with a final calculation using a calculator and

00:04:13

of course saving an advance from zero percent

00:04:16

is obtained with just two documents

00:04:19

as for new equipment and for

00:04:21

used equipment, as well as promotions, subsidies and

00:04:24

exclusive discounts from partners, and

00:04:26

all this with constant support,

00:04:28

you will have your own personal account in which

00:04:30

you can track all payments, all

00:04:32

documents, and you

00:04:34

can also receive the documents themselves via Edo via

00:04:36

electronic document management and

00:04:38

in fact, everything really happens

00:04:39

online and without visiting the office. So

00:04:42

develop your business with alpha leasing,

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all the conditions, details and

00:04:46

equipment catalog at the link in the description

00:04:50

[music]

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the first 10 minutes of Teriberka and already the events

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Only the operator and I managed to check

00:05:00

into the hotel and install all the equipment for charging,

00:05:02

as in the hotel, the electricity immediately turned off, and the

00:05:04

generator broke down. Why

00:05:07

even power the hotel from a generator? The

00:05:10

point is that in the summer in the summer, for

00:05:13

several days every year, the

00:05:15

electricity is turned off, in the sense of completely turned off.

00:05:18

We are used to the fact that in cities

00:05:21

they turn off the water, it’s

00:05:29

not clear Well, since the refrigerator runs from it, the

00:05:32

phone is charged from it,

00:05:34

Teriberka is powered by electricity from a hydroelectric power station

00:05:37

from the local hydroelectric power station and thus

00:05:39

preventive work is carried out,

00:05:42

in principle, you can live without electricity. But you can

00:05:44

remove it. No, because the batteries

00:05:46

need to be charged somehow, we go to the generator. It’s

00:05:49

huge, like an engine on a ship. and what’s

00:05:52

broken in it It’s still not clear that a

00:05:54

whole council has gathered around, local

00:05:57

guests support the electricians and

00:05:59

control the whole process Katya, she’s

00:06:01

the manager of this hotel Katya

00:06:03

Amazingly balanced, it seems that

00:06:05

even if this whole generator falls apart before her eyes,

00:06:08

she will continue to calmly

00:06:10

answer work calls, the

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[ __ ] takes minutes 20 and it seems that

00:06:19

the generator starts up

00:06:21

[music]

00:06:26

and the generator immediately turns off again why

00:06:29

it broke down so far no one can really understand,

00:06:31

well, no one really panics here, in

00:06:34

principle, the problem happens with

00:06:36

electricity, that is, in the winter it sometimes

00:06:38

turns off last year, as if in our country

00:06:42

November and December they turned off

00:06:44

some work there, that is, but here the North is

00:06:46

windy. It happens that the wind just

00:06:49

tears off some wire and, accordingly,

00:06:51

supplies both villages, either there is

00:06:53

one specific one, that is, or

00:06:56

there, well, gusts reach up to 30 to 40

00:06:59

meters of Teriberka the problem with

00:07:01

electricity is solved. It’s just that almost

00:07:03

everyone has generators, even those who

00:07:05

live in an apartment building. Do you know what

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else almost every Terapian citizen has

00:07:10

reserves of gasoline or diesel with two

00:07:13

cars, one with diesel and the other with

00:07:15

gasoline, respectively, there is always a supply of

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diesel there is always a supply

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but there is approximately 150 liters of gasoline, that

00:07:24

is,

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and diesel is diesel, I can’t say

00:07:29

that it’s a lot, but there are 3 canisters for 50 years, but

00:07:33

also probably 150. The thing is that there are

00:07:35

no gas stations in the village and the nearest one is

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only in Murmansk, which is more than 130

00:07:41

kilometers or three hours driving a car,

00:07:43

locals store gasoline in garages,

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maybe it’s not very safe Yes, but there’s simply

00:07:48

no other way out, you know what it is? This is an

00:07:51

electric gas station, seriously, that is, there is not a single

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gas station in the entire village,

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but there is an electric gas station

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and it certainly looks fantastic. Have you

00:08:03

ever seen an electric gas station? in a

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wooden gazebo, but this

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unsightly power plant still

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has a mission, here fishermen refill the batteries

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and Motorhome travelers can,

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in principle, come to Teriberka on a

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Tesla to recharge. Look at the map

00:08:20

of Teriberka here above the Arctic Circle.

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This is the very end of the earth, but imagine

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getting there differently It’s already a long time from

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Moscow, at first it’s only two and a

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half hours by plane and then 130

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kilometers by road doesn’t seem to be very

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much, it’s like

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you’re driving through half a continent, nature changes so much

00:08:39

[music]

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The further you get from Pteriberki, the

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less vegetation becomes. At first

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it’s the forest we’re used to, then dwarf birch

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trees and then at some point you

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find yourself in a completely

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bald tundra at the same time the

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vegetation ends and the good

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road at first is just bad asphalt

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then patched holes the last 30

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kilometers to Teriberka confirms but

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the truth is that all the stereotypes of Russian roads are

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dirt roads I think many words are not needed

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for in order to describe it because the

00:09:21

visual component says you see

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wooden sticks sticking out all over the road and

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you know that these are the remains of wooden

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barriers from snow in the summer it

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may not be easy to get to Teriberka because the

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primer is not the best

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surface for a car and rather for its

00:09:39

suspension. But in winter this road may be

00:09:42

completely covered with snow and it won’t

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be possible to get there for several days

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and a week in winter, it’s true that you can’t get

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through it, sometimes there’s so much snow that

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this road is closed, imagine the

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polar night, the cold and even a snowstorm that you ca

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n’t see anything further than arm’s length

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by the way, we’re already approaching the village

00:10:02

[music]

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when entering the village itself, a

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really cool asphalt road appears,

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this is some kind of embarrassment. Funny thing, I don’t know the

00:10:23

philosophical meaning. But the meaning is probably

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that this road reflects the entire territory,

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the confusion of this place where you are already

00:10:30

building new buildings. But look at the

00:10:32

seashore, a whole the street of skeleton houses

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used to be home to several families in this gray wooden house. In the

00:10:37

mornings, they

00:10:39

probably cooked oatmeal. And in the evenings,

00:10:42

I don’t know, they fried fish and watched

00:10:44

the sun set in the sea. The roofs had already

00:10:46

collapsed; the walls were barely holding on; and on this

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street ruin, a Norwegian artist

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painted a huge hieroglyph.

00:10:53

translated as a house, a place to live,

00:10:55

it turns out to be a place to live that

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no longer exists

00:10:58

[music]

00:11:08

almost all the old wooden houses in

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Teriberka are in this

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condition and if you come closer and

00:11:17

look, they also still glow with the life

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that was in full swing here, the wallpaper is still there, it looks

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like a kitchen there

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were all these ghostly

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remains of the walls, there’s even a rosette

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on the wall and these houses are not

00:11:35

suitable and the constructions are just right, the

00:11:38

rest of the local population is being relocated

00:11:40

either to specially built New houses

00:11:44

or to Khrushchevka and the wooden buildings

00:11:47

that convey exactly this spirit of the north

00:11:49

it stands completely abandoned,

00:11:52

house 3, and all the ghosts in the village, there are no

00:11:56

gas stations, there is not even a clinic as such on

00:12:00

the street. But there is a kindergarten,

00:12:02

for example, and a school. The locals do

00:12:04

n’t live mostly in wooden houses. But in

00:12:06

these sockets, you know, the usual

00:12:09

Soviet-era buildings, dull

00:12:11

high-rise buildings and a bunch of garages. This

00:12:14

socket is absolutely beautiful in the

00:12:17

sense that it surrounds it because

00:12:20

it seems to be so common in every

00:12:21

city, there are a ton of them. But these rocks around

00:12:26

in that country of the ocean don’t make it, of course,

00:12:29

especially right in front of the socket, laundry is drying,

00:12:31

you know from it becomes so cozy on the street

00:12:34

and right there at the entrance lies a

00:12:36

huge happy dog. The dogs are not

00:12:39

offended here, it’s clear they walk very freely

00:12:42

around the village, a woman walks with

00:12:44

a can and a bag of groceries, and the dog

00:12:47

accompanies her. There are no chain stores in Teriberka.

00:12:49

But there are three small ones. the stall

00:12:52

there is expensive, but the most necessary things are still

00:12:55

available, it

00:12:59

costs about a kilogram of cucumbers costs 112

00:13:03

rubles and peppers cost 17 rubles, also peaches

00:13:07

429 rubles per kilogram, almost twice as

00:13:11

expensive as in a regular Moscow store,

00:13:13

if you need to buy directly, then the locals

00:13:16

go to Murmansk. It’s a bit far, but there’s no other

00:13:18

way out. there’s just no sausage

00:13:21

1042 rubles half

00:13:29

Well, watermelons

00:13:35

cost 42 rubles and the main place

00:13:39

for locals here is this

00:13:41

five-story building this is this

00:13:44

building, or rather its first floor is a champion

00:13:47

of multifunctionality, literally

00:13:49

everything is literally located here. What does

00:13:51

services mean in the city means

00:13:53

here and the library and the police station and the

00:13:58

pharmacy and the post office and my documents and

00:14:03

Sberbank and the paramedic station and everything

00:14:06

actually works in a very rather

00:14:07

unusual unusual mode. For

00:14:09

example, Sberbank is hanging a sign, you

00:14:11

approach And Sberbank works only a

00:14:14

few times a month,

00:14:17

Claire comes here, who performs

00:14:20

functions

00:14:24

and conducts payments mail works

00:14:26

every day

00:14:28

several times a day if suddenly at 12

00:14:31

o'clock at night your stomach hurts Sorry I

00:14:34

had to stock up on pills during the day my

00:14:36

documents work for two hours twice

00:14:39

a month

00:14:40

having been greedy with all the city services it’s

00:14:42

strange and wild to realize that you

00:14:45

only have two hours including the queue for

00:14:47

everything bureaucratic moments in your

00:14:50

life are resolved here, several

00:14:52

ambulances belong to the

00:14:54

paramedic station and do not work at

00:14:57

all. As soon as in the city, the paramedic is

00:14:59

not a doctor, he cannot provide all

00:15:01

medical interventions except, of course,

00:15:03

emergency ones, so the paramedic here

00:15:06

comes to the patient and examines him in

00:15:09

case why are they taking them to Murmansk

00:15:10

because there are hospitals there? We go into the door on

00:15:14

which it says police station

00:15:16

right there and a hairdresser is right there

00:15:18

and it’s like a sportsman and by the way it’s

00:15:22

not clear where the police station itself is

00:15:27

most likely this is an iron door

00:15:29

but no excuse me please this is a storage room

00:15:33

in short where is the policeman section I still do

00:15:35

n’t understand, but

00:15:38

up to 60 thousand people come to Teriberka a year, this is only a

00:15:41

more or less official figure, not counting

00:15:44

those who come here as savages. How did it

00:15:46

happen in some places it even seems that there are

00:15:49

more tourists here than locals? For example, a

00:15:51

girl walks along the beach sports warm

00:15:54

jackets windproof pants for locals

00:15:56

such clothes Well, it’s too warm

00:15:59

today, but a man in

00:16:01

sunglasses is sitting in no hurry, resting

00:16:03

Once in the history of the village there was a

00:16:05

turning point that divided the life

00:16:08

of Teriberkin before and after this Leviathan

00:16:15

[music]

00:16:22

and after the film came out gained

00:16:26

wide popularity, he received a Golden

00:16:29

Globe, was nominated for an Oscar,

00:16:31

tourists come here in droves, and

00:16:34

tourists from all over the world in order

00:16:36

to be imbued with this chthony,

00:16:39

now this director has come to our country,

00:16:40

but they began to brand him long before

00:16:43

2022 for the fact that he allegedly hates

00:16:47

Russia because he shows in films the

00:16:49

real, unsightly life of our country

00:16:51

Zvyagintsev showed Leviath no one the

00:16:54

endless board the sadness of this whole

00:16:56

world for this he was also partly condemned, but

00:17:00

no matter how the authorities canceled Zvyagintsev, it

00:17:03

so happened that Zvyagintsev

00:17:05

did much more for this place in 30 years

00:17:07

than the officials and entrepreneurs all

00:17:11

together because after the release of

00:17:12

the film Teriberka pulled out a Lucky

00:17:15

ticket to a second life She pulled out a

00:17:18

Lucky ticket to the Renaissance

00:17:20

[music]

00:17:30

the main problem of this village for me

00:17:32

as a child was it’s boring here, there’s a

00:17:35

lot of old population, young people

00:17:37

are leaving here and of course I’m the majority

00:17:40

spent time at all sorts of events,

00:17:42

there are stages and so on Because, well,

00:17:45

what else to do? Well, read books in

00:17:47

libraries. Well, yes, you can

00:17:49

run through abandoned places. Well, yes, you can, that is, what

00:17:51

else to do here? There are no cinemas. There are no

00:17:56

anti-cafes here. I don’t know. No parties. here the

00:18:00

population is small and you to this small

00:18:03

group of five or six people run here and there

00:18:05

then run there started to

00:18:07

do this Igor he was born and raised in

00:18:10

Teriberka as a child he could walk around the

00:18:12

village for hours and imagine not

00:18:14

meeting anyone in

00:18:15

2017-2018 the village there are just a

00:18:19

lot of tourists everywhere We periodically

00:18:22

stop at the window and look at the beach and the

00:18:24

beach is always full Well,

00:18:26

except in the morning in the morning because people still

00:18:28

woke up in the evening in the evening also

00:18:30

filled at night filled all the time

00:18:32

filled with people a lot of people there will always be

00:18:34

a lot as soon as

00:18:36

people started coming here hotels and restaurants have begun to open in Teriberka,

00:18:38

especially a lot of them on

00:18:41

the coast in a restaurant with panoramic

00:18:43

windows and a Moscow price list.

00:18:45

Igor works, let's look at the menu, there are a

00:18:50

lot of items with

00:18:53

seafood here for you and cod and salmon and

00:18:57

scallops in general, everything Why can

00:19:00

a tourist come to the shore of the Barinsky Sea

00:19:06

like a sandwich with oil

00:19:09

for 150 rubles

00:19:12

[music] is

00:19:22

now becoming more and more relevant

00:19:24

The topic of reboot and retreat Teriberka

00:19:27

In my opinion, it’s ideal for this place,

00:19:29

just look around,

00:19:31

its extraordinary beauty, I’ll tell you from myself, friends, that

00:19:33

there are situations that, in fact, are

00:19:36

not solved by travel, that is,

00:19:38

beautiful nature interesting places this

00:19:41

can all smooth out everything for a while problems

00:19:44

But if you are experiencing a problem in a personal

00:19:47

situation or at work then it is normal to

00:19:51

contact a specialist. I have already

00:19:52

told you that I myself personally

00:19:54

consulted a psychologist when I graduated

00:19:57

from the university, I contacted a psychologist

00:19:59

when I had it was a complete nightmare in my personal

00:20:02

life, I was broken. I understand that if it were

00:20:05

n’t for the psychologist, I would have solved these problems

00:20:07

for many, many years, and maybe I wouldn’t have solved them,

00:20:11

and my experience was absolutely positive,

00:20:13

and I now understand that it’s

00:20:17

normal to experience what -it’s awkward

00:20:19

before the first consultation,

00:20:22

but when you already find your specialist

00:20:24

who understands everything becomes

00:20:28

different, everything falls into place

00:20:30

if you have not yet had experience as psychologists,

00:20:33

then Personally, I advise you to pay attention

00:20:35

to the selection service and online consultations

00:20:41

firstly Clear this is a service that cooperates

00:20:44

only with experienced specialists with

00:20:46

proven experience and education;

00:20:48

secondly, the format of online consultations is

00:20:50

convenient and will cost less and the most

00:20:54

important thing is to find a suitable specialist on

00:20:56

Clearly; it’s easier; you create a profile, mark

00:21:00

topics that concern you, for example,

00:21:01

irritability, lack of motivation, and

00:21:04

so on, and the service itself will select 12

00:21:07

psychologists with a suitable specialization for you;

00:21:10

here there is a photo resume and a story from each

00:21:14

specialist about himself; it’s easier to

00:21:16

make a choice and start working;

00:21:18

sessions on Clear are absolutely confidential;

00:21:21

they are not recorded or saved. You do

00:21:23

n’t have to worry about this; in general, everything in

00:21:26

Clearly Made for of your Comfort, she will

00:21:29

also have a discount waiting for you for the first consultation,

00:21:30

you just need to activate the

00:21:33

People promotional code immediately before the

00:21:35

consultation and then the price will be 20

00:21:38

percent lower and remember,

00:21:41

not a single problem will be solved if you

00:21:42

ignore it. And if you contact a

00:21:45

specialist, then everything will definitely be

00:21:47

clear

00:21:49

oh the village has changed girl we are not feeling

00:21:51

well it’s not bad that we don’t see anything from this,

00:21:54

that there are hotels here, that there are

00:21:56

plenty of them here There was a festival here, too, there were

00:21:59

plenty of them, where someone takes a clean one with

00:22:02

them, who will leave this dirt I’m

00:22:04

not cold, not hot from them We did

00:22:06

n’t profit from anything they’re not there,

00:22:08

maybe somewhere they put it in someone’s pocket,

00:22:10

this money goes into someone’s pocket, but we have

00:22:12

absolutely no benefit from it, we saw how many

00:22:14

hotels are set up, we saw yes yes yes yes yes, and

00:22:17

here I am telling us that they exist, that they don’t

00:22:20

exist, I don’t touch them they don’t touch me

00:22:22

Galina Leonidovna the kids were born here,

00:22:25

her whole life passed here first Friendship First

00:22:28

love First disappointment that was all

00:22:31

here At the end of the earth and the village changed

00:22:34

before and after also Galina

00:22:37

Leonidovna

00:22:38

was so big before our eyes We didn’t even know who

00:22:41

lived where that’s how long there were people in the

00:22:43

classes, 42 students each, studying in two

00:22:47

shifts, studying in two classes each. That's

00:22:50

how many people there were, the distant Greens,

00:22:52

these boarding schools, boarding schools, we had a

00:22:55

lot of children coming here. For several

00:22:57

centuries, the fate of Teriberka was

00:22:58

intertwined with fish, here they were caught and

00:23:01

processed into on an industrial scale,

00:23:03

in the best years, 6 thousand people lived in the village

00:23:06

and almost all the locals were somehow

00:23:09

connected with fish, like Galina

00:23:11

Leonidovna’s family, her father is a Fisherman and her daughter works at a

00:23:14

fish factory, now there are only 700 local residents here

00:23:16

and it’s a great success to find work in the

00:23:19

village because Of the

00:23:21

large enterprises here, there are actually

00:23:23

only hydroelectric power stations. And there are many workers there and there is no

00:23:25

need for them. Most of the fishing enterprises

00:23:27

have closed. The locals are reluctant to work in tourism.

00:23:30

For example, Katya is the manager of the

00:23:33

hotel; she came to Teriberka from

00:23:35

Nizhny Novgorod; all these hotels

00:23:37

that are open here in Riberg. They

00:23:39

were opened by someone visiting That is,

00:23:42

I don’t know a single one, at least not a

00:23:44

single local who would build

00:23:46

or open a hotel there himself.

00:23:49

Everyone came from somewhere, at least from

00:23:51

Murmansk. It turns out to be some kind of vicious

00:23:53

circle, the surging tourism changes the silver lining,

00:23:55

but this only partially affects the lives of the locals, the

00:23:57

same the road seems to

00:24:01

have been completed, but you yourself saw only

00:24:02

partially; for a population of 700

00:24:05

people, there are too many cars in the village;

00:24:08

every third fourth car passes

00:24:11

here with a Moscow license plate or with a

00:24:14

St. Petersburg license plate. In general, every

00:24:16

third fourth car is not local,

00:24:18

modern Teriberka is actually two

00:24:20

United village, old church,

00:24:22

village of Lodeyny, which is now called

00:24:25

Novaya siriberg, between the old and new

00:24:29

tiriberka there are about 3 kilometers and

00:24:31

no public transport;

00:24:34

now the lack of a minibus or bus

00:24:36

seems like a trifle, but in winter it’s a really

00:24:39

insurmountable distance for pedestrians;

00:24:41

if there is no car, consider it lost; the

00:24:45

locals are engaged in transporting tourists. for example,

00:24:48

an advertisement looks like this: This is just

00:24:50

a piece of paper, files that were stapled

00:24:53

to a stump and left for

00:24:58

lost souls who cannot

00:24:59

leave here. But what really strikes me most is

00:25:01

not the lack of a taxi, but the

00:25:04

prices for transportation within

00:25:06

Teriberka old new any trip 500

00:25:09

rubles even if you drive for two minutes, even if it’s five minutes,

00:25:12

even damn it’s 7,500 rubles on the one hand,

00:25:15

yes, tourism brings really good

00:25:17

money, but on the other hand, it doesn’t

00:25:19

solve the basic problems of the village at all, there are no

00:25:22

gas stations, there is no

00:25:25

full education in an

00:25:27

art school, there are no specialized

00:25:30

doctors, that is, not a surgeon, not a gynecologist, that

00:25:34

is not here, I went to my

00:25:37

homeland to give birth, that is, well, it sounds crazy,

00:25:41

of course, but nevertheless, there are no

00:25:43

cinemas there,

00:25:45

anything else, but this is kind of secondary,

00:25:48

but nevertheless, that is, the children entertain

00:25:51

you themselves. Katya has two daughters, she knows for sure

00:25:53

about what Katya says In general, she

00:25:56

never dreamed of living in the north, she

00:25:58

visited here for the first time only in 2017, she

00:26:01

came to Murmansk for a friend’s wedding.

00:26:03

We left on June 23, it was hot there

00:26:07

plus 30, that is, we arrived here in

00:26:10

Murmansk it was about plus 10 plus 7

00:26:13

even in some places People were walking around in autumn

00:26:16

coats in autumn jackets. I looked at all this, I

00:26:19

thought where the hell did I

00:26:21

end up, I need these ribers, Katya

00:26:25

then I almost didn’t get there, you ended up in an even

00:26:27

more abandoned village of Tumanny, I felt

00:26:30

like I was in Chernobyl, that is,

00:26:32

destroyed houses broken glass there are

00:26:35

only two residential houses there and I’m like that Let’s

00:26:38

go to Teriberka, I say No

00:26:40

thank you, I’ve had enough of your northern

00:26:42

landscapes no In general, Katya remembered

00:26:46

these riberkas if it weren’t for one Severe

00:26:48

Northern man Witness at a

00:26:50

friend’s wedding she’s in Nizhny Novgorod he’s in

00:26:53

Teriberka A there are hundreds of messages between them

00:26:56

Well, I somehow write to him and tell him Max is there

00:26:59

Hello la-la poplars there Maybe you

00:27:01

will send me fish there with Igor and I

00:27:03

will send you Nizhny Novgorod homemade pickles

00:27:05

there my parents have their own garden,

00:27:06

cucumbers tomatoes there, pickled

00:27:08

mushrooms and so on and how we

00:27:11

started communicating, that is, he

00:27:13

sent me fish. I sent him

00:27:15

pickles back and began to communicate, he began to

00:27:19

throw me these Tiberian sunsets,

00:27:21

beautiful views there, White nights and all that,

00:27:24

in short, it turned out to be fate Katya

00:27:27

said goodbye to her old life and gathered her

00:27:29

four-year-old daughter and bought

00:27:32

one-way tickets to the north, it was difficult True, but

00:27:35

she learned to love the North as a loved

00:27:37

one for who he is, especially

00:27:40

at work, she really has no time to be bored.

00:27:43

Tourists are like children; if they

00:27:45

get lost, I don’t know; if someone breaks down,

00:27:47

then someone needs food I had a case of an

00:27:51

old tourist in Teriberka. There is an

00:27:54

old ship and there are

00:27:56

bungees, so she decided to put on bungees.

00:27:59

Well, everyone was riding there and she decided, but

00:28:02

he had enough weight, the girl was

00:28:04

quite large, she was tall like that

00:28:06

and she just had a video of her falling

00:28:09

into the splits with altitude

00:28:12

there are three fractures and two communication breakdowns

00:28:16

as soon as Katya arrived north she

00:28:19

learned to calmly face any

00:28:21

disaster the generator broke down Okay, let's

00:28:23

fix the tourist's three fractures. I see,

00:28:26

we'll call a doctor here, in principle, you

00:28:29

may encounter a bear in the village

00:28:31

last year we had three bears

00:28:33

went out to the village this year, they also

00:28:35

went out, but didn’t go that far

00:28:38

last year, a bakery worker goes to

00:28:40

work at 6 in the morning,

00:28:43

Mishka is sitting at the entrance to the bakery, and everything

00:28:46

reacts normally, no one is hysterical or

00:28:48

crying

00:28:55

here, they do

00:28:56

n’t like whiners in the north if you

00:29:00

came especially if you came from

00:29:02

somewhere That is, if you

00:29:04

weren’t born here if you came from somewhere you chose

00:29:07

a life for yourself in the north, you’re sitting crying

00:29:18

[music] You can’t

00:29:27

even really grow a vegetable garden

00:29:29

here, there’s no permafrost, but there’s a lot of

00:29:33

sand on which, as you can really understand

00:29:35

you won’t grow anything, but

00:29:38

that doesn’t stop Galina Leonidovna at all, she brings the

00:29:40

Earth from Murmansk here. Look,

00:29:43

her potatoes are growing and her carrots and

00:29:45

parsley will wither before they bring me here.

00:29:48

And Galina Leonidovna has her own

00:29:50

fresh ones and a whole bed of strawberries.

00:29:52

Yes, here on the edge of the earth, two steps away

00:29:56

Not everyone grows strawberries from the North Pole

00:29:58

Of course, Galina Leonidovna is alone in

00:30:01

a village with such a gorgeous vegetable garden,

00:30:04

you see bare sand, here’s the

00:30:07

second sowing already. The parsley and

00:30:12

dill have fallen. There are big flowers,

00:30:21

everything is overgrown, nothing fancy, like well,

00:30:24

here, almost no one has

00:30:25

strawberries there there were well, the strawberries have already moved away

00:30:28

there are raspberries there are a little on the other side there are

00:30:30

a little currants We go into

00:30:32

Galina Leonidovna’s house yes you come you this

00:30:35

tripper just don’t need to take it off well

00:30:36

she even complains about her health

00:30:38

look how neat and cozy it is inside

00:30:40

like grandmothers came to visit Spacious

00:30:43

kitchen and to me, everything is in its place, we have already

00:30:45

earned Galina Leonidovna’s trust a little,

00:30:47

so she treats us to tea

00:30:49

and plum jam herself

00:30:59

[music]

00:31:02

So, butter bread in general would completely

00:31:05

believe that Galina Leonidovna and the plum in

00:31:08

the garden grew this well-aimed swear word and

00:31:11

straightforwardness is valued here in the north

00:31:13

especially in Teriberka, the former Fisherman's

00:31:15

Village. Imagine harsh men,

00:31:18

cold, dangerous sea and Polar climate.

00:31:21

True, on Teriberka now, instead of

00:31:23

fishermen, there are tourists, instead of boats, cafes

00:31:25

and restaurants, and instead of ships, hotels,

00:31:28

and in general, this is new after

00:31:31

Miofanovskaya Teriberka is not at all

00:31:33

depressing, it is still alive today even

00:31:36

very sunny This is a building in an old

00:31:38

Teriberka, upholstered in plastic from a red

00:31:40

roof, this is a recreation center here and a concert hall, an

00:31:44

improvised cinema and a library

00:31:46

and exhibition halls, the main thing here is Olga,

00:31:49

she is the director and leader of clubs

00:31:52

for children, literally last week we

00:31:54

created cats and there are exactly 13 of them if

00:31:58

I didn’t laugh, of course I thought it was because cats were like that

00:32:01

13

00:32:04

Black cat Once upon a time there was a black cat around the

00:32:08

corner Olga came to Teriberka 35 years

00:32:11

ago from Nizhny Novgorod, just like Katya

00:32:13

and Olga graduated from her studies and of her

00:32:16

own free will She rushed north to

00:32:18

work as a choir director Why

00:32:20

Teriberka is here I wish the result family

00:32:22

Olga will never forget the first day in the village.

00:32:25

I arrived with my husband, but with two

00:32:28

suitcases and a felt felt pillow. It

00:32:32

was in January that we were accommodated in a house

00:32:34

of visitors. This was a house before it was a

00:32:36

hotel. There were two rooms, one for men, one for

00:32:39

women, here is TET Nina Ushakova I just

00:32:41

worked there the maid she asks are you

00:32:44

married, I say married, she

00:32:48

will still be in different rooms in the

00:32:52

guest house Olga and her husband lived for three

00:32:55

days, then they were moved to an apartment

00:32:57

renovated especially for their

00:32:59

arrival, as I remember now, house 3, apartment

00:33:02

5, we go up the stairs, toilet on

00:33:05

the street, almost

00:33:06

a well, heating so proudly I thought I was right,

00:33:10

Lyuba opens it, says oh, but if tomorrow you leave here

00:33:15

too, pay us for the repairs.

00:33:20

That was January 1987. The

00:33:24

renovation was unsightly, of course,

00:33:27

wallpaper was hung and the floor was painted, and the weather on

00:33:30

January 24 was great. It was winter; the

00:33:33

wind was blowing mercilessly. This was the North, the

00:33:37

real North. I think at this point

00:33:40

the majority would have turned around and left

00:33:42

Riberka for about forever, but Olga did

00:33:45

n’t even have such a thought. She fell in love with the

00:33:48

North so much that she still won’t

00:33:50

let her go, but we are in defiance of everyone poems We

00:33:54

will still live nowhere from here We won’t leave,

00:33:56

but because I like it. Like I said 35 years ago, I’ll

00:34:00

look out the window and see the sea.

00:34:02

Now I’m really watching the mountains from the window, but

00:34:05

that’s also good.

00:34:16

they

00:34:18

haven’t seen each other for probably a couple of years

00:34:25

Hello

00:34:45

[music]

00:34:47

in a couple of minutes Olga July manages to

00:34:49

discuss all the most pressing matters well as

00:34:52

usual the health of the figure work and heard

00:34:56

Yes bears Quite an ordinary conversation

00:34:59

in the north and then clearly without thinking bears a

00:35:01

man walks past with a naked

00:35:03

his torso is sunbathing But even on such a

00:35:05

sunny day you can’t get rid of Tony

00:35:07

when you look at these dead wooden

00:35:09

houses on one of them it says everything

00:35:12

he had, he gave away and stands

00:35:15

destroyed like most of the old

00:35:18

Teriberka This gray building is a

00:35:22

former school building, a real tourist

00:35:24

Mecca tourists are rushing here

00:35:27

to go inside and photograph this

00:35:30

apocalyptic situation, the

00:35:32

devastation of the remains of life Olga worked

00:35:36

here for more than 20 years as a teacher of music and

00:35:40

literature. Her class was on the second floor

00:35:42

right above the entrance. It also came here in 2022 and

00:35:47

2023. In 2006, the school was closed and with Since

00:35:52

then, Olga has never entered the school; it’s

00:35:56

painful for her to even look at the crumbling building, and the fact that tourists have made an

00:35:59

art object out of this abandoned place is breaking and

00:36:02

right at that moment

00:36:04

three girls are trying to enter the school, clearly not local

00:36:08

fools,

00:36:11

looking for an atmosphere of a strange mixture of

00:36:14

hopelessness and nostalgia for the Soviet

00:36:16

school, you know, this place is not like

00:36:19

other abandoned places, can you imagine the school has been

00:36:21

closed for more than ten years,

00:36:24

something alive and real is still glowing inside

00:36:29

[music]

00:36:40

[music]

00:36:45

look, by some miracle there’s a

00:36:48

poster with suffixes hanging on the wall. Probably this was

00:36:51

earlier there was a classroom of Russian language and

00:36:52

literature, look how many books are

00:36:55

left here, it’s not clear how they were

00:36:57

n’t taken away in some classrooms,

00:36:59

literally the entire floor is strewn with them, while

00:37:02

you can still understand where which classroom

00:37:04

was before, it was probably the classroom

00:37:11

Leningrad Minsk Moscow,

00:37:14

some numbers,

00:37:16

probably the remnants are basically

00:37:19

holding on, yes, yes, Olga was just talking about him.

00:37:22

Here was her office, a

00:37:26

music and literature class, and next to it was a

00:37:28

mathematics class. I hated algebra at school,

00:37:31

but here is a piece of some kind of equation,

00:37:35

how to solve it, it’s sad

00:37:38

that no one here will learn how to

00:37:40

solve these anymore equations Why the school

00:37:42

was closed in the 60s, fish production

00:37:45

began to leave Teriberka for Murmansk and

00:37:48

the village fell into the deepest depression of

00:37:50

work and prospects for people here simply

00:37:53

did not exist and they began to leave en masse at

00:37:56

some point in the school It turned out that there were

00:37:59

27 people studying at the school after that,

00:38:01

the administration of the Murmansk region, the local

00:38:03

administration, decided that there was no

00:38:05

profitability in

00:38:07

maintaining the school; half of the windows were

00:38:10

broken; some were clogged with plywood; the paint on the

00:38:13

walls was peeling off in places, but the building was

00:38:15

objectively preserved well. As if

00:38:18

just cosmetic repairs were enough

00:38:20

and the refrigerator was already in use again,

00:38:23

look. What a cool Soviet-

00:38:25

era building it’s standing here. But the coolest thing here is the

00:38:28

view from the window. The schoolchildren were able to. I do

00:38:30

n’t think they could skip class but just

00:38:31

hang out on the hills. And even now this school

00:38:34

inspires many people

00:38:36

[music]

00:38:42

artists here really like to show off or leave some kind of inscription,

00:38:44

for example

00:38:47

Russia a generous soul, a comma for the rich,

00:38:50

or to draw some kind of picture.

00:38:52

Someone decided to leave a sign on a silent one.

00:38:55

By the way, it’s very symbolic

00:38:58

because there is no sound here, there is no

00:39:01

sound except the blowing wind and falling

00:39:04

plaster, the crunch of glass and a book

00:39:08

Underfoot and that’s it

00:39:10

[music]

00:39:16

there is Teriberki, another legendary

00:39:18

place in winter, the road to the village is covered up.

00:39:20

So even SUVs won’t get through,

00:39:23

let alone Gazelles with food. But even

00:39:26

in the harshest snowy winters, there was a smell of

00:39:29

fresh bread here thanks to Tatyana

00:39:31

Aleksandrovna, the owner of the bakery, she

00:39:33

stored grain so that the locals

00:39:35

had fresh bread every day Yes,

00:39:38

somewhere I laid aside about, for example,

00:39:40

three tons, lately, maybe even

00:39:43

6 tons because I was counting on having it in stock

00:39:47

until about March during the winter,

00:39:50

we just brought in salt,

00:39:54

sugar and this yeast, they can’t sit for long,

00:39:58

and this one I had all this in

00:40:00

stock I would have enough raw materials until June

00:40:02

Tatyana Alexandrovna looks like the heroine of

00:40:05

Remarque’s books such an elegant haircut in the

00:40:08

style of the thirties neat dress and

00:40:10

shoes with a small but still heel

00:40:12

the truth about the bakery everything is in the past

00:40:15

tense Tatyana Alexandrovna is already 70 I have

00:40:19

never either I didn’t guess and a couple of years

00:40:22

ago

00:40:24

she didn’t have the energy left to keep this place running, but the bakery

00:40:26

was only closed yesterday, perfect

00:40:29

cleanliness. It even still smells like

00:40:31

fresh bread.

00:40:36

Well, it’s worn everywhere like this; it’s going to shake; it

00:40:39

still smells like fresh baked goods.

00:40:42

I think Tatyana Aleksandrovna

00:40:45

the same Power Woman She achieved everything in her life,

00:40:47

he had his own profitable

00:40:49

store, his own successful bakery, a happy

00:40:52

family and retired. She left because

00:40:54

she wanted it, now she has only

00:40:57

one desire. She wants the bakery to

00:41:00

continue working, but without her. I

00:41:03

would like to achieve so that this enterprise

00:41:06

[music]

00:41:11

ah-and the same interested

00:41:13

continue to bake But I, if I

00:41:16

need a person like this Well, how can I

00:41:19

say technology to know, then I will help

00:41:27

about what Well, we definitely need to tell you in

00:41:31

Teriberka this is fishing before

00:41:33

tourists came here, this is where most of the people

00:41:36

lived fishermen really like to come to the

00:41:39

Barents Sea for fishing because

00:41:42

wow, the water area never freezes here.

00:41:45

There is a north current, it’s like an

00:41:47

offshoot,

00:41:48

so the water here is always liquid

00:41:52

liquid water, it seems like a

00:41:54

tautology, but that’s what fishermen call water

00:41:58

that doesn’t freeze. We also decided to

00:42:00

go out to sea and try to catch fish

00:42:02

with us Captain Sasha, he specially bought a

00:42:05

sports boat to fly on the waves,

00:42:08

really, we are rushing for all the yuan of this world

00:42:11

in a different way, Sasha is just not interested,

00:42:14

the most comfortable thing is to stand during this race

00:42:33

[music]

00:42:41

[music]

00:42:58

We have finally reached a cool place and To be

00:43:01

honest, I was blown away by how technologically advanced

00:43:03

fishing is now. On this screen

00:43:06

you can track where the fish are. You

00:43:08

see these are the schools of cod that we

00:43:11

hunt; it immediately turns out that the depth at

00:43:14

which we are standing now is three nine-story buildings, the

00:43:17

direction of the wind and a bunch of other

00:43:19

characteristics, even the fishing line on the fishing rod

00:43:22

automatically the fish is spinning around, it’s

00:43:24

still not that easy to catch, it doesn’t

00:43:26

give up

00:43:29

[music]

00:43:35

[music]

00:44:02

this is the goal that

00:44:07

Sasha didn’t want, Sasha’s approach to the size of the fish is

00:44:10

peculiar, less than a kilogram is generally not

00:44:13

considered unworthy of his ambitions, the catch is

00:44:16

stupidly fed to a seagull for fun

00:44:19

this season they got it on 89 here

00:44:22

on 86 it took

00:44:26

4 hours to raise it, three hours later we

00:44:29

still catch fish more or less

00:44:31

worthy of Sasha’s ambitions and rush to the

00:44:33

shore

00:44:35

[music]

00:44:42

recipe simple onion lemon and fish all in

00:44:47

foil and on the grill You can of course

00:44:49

fry it but there is no electricity today

00:44:52

[ music]

00:45:14

[laughter]

00:45:18

[music]

00:45:24

[music]

00:45:31

I’m looking at the ocean for the first time in my life I’m

00:45:36

seeing it for the first time With my own eyes it’s

00:45:39

just an incredible feeling This is the

00:45:41

last piece of land before

00:45:45

endless nature before endless

00:45:48

water there’s only the North Pole,

00:45:50

you know, just hug and cry It’s so

00:45:54

beautiful here, it’s an incredible feeling,

00:45:58

you feel so

00:46:01

merciless

00:46:05

yummy tundra,

00:46:09

you know,

00:46:11

just a couple of meters and that’s it And there’s

00:46:15

nothing else, just water, it

00:46:20

gives me goosebumps from hearing it out loud I

00:46:24

pronounce it

00:46:27

incredibly beautifully

00:46:29

[music]

00:46:40

I’ll probably say such a strange thing but

00:46:44

we’re here on On the edge of Russia, you feel like a

00:46:47

free person; all the problems

00:46:52

from Moscow don’t seem to reach here.

00:46:56

In general, your space is clear that

00:47:00

the legislation of the Russian Federation, but still with

00:47:02

its own rules, laws

00:47:09

also breathe as if you don’t need to

00:47:13

hide, don’t be afraid of this. A strange

00:47:15

feeling appears not only because of the

00:47:17

endless Its natural expanses

00:47:20

help people to feel it; they are not bendable; they are

00:47:22

harsh in places, but they give you goosebumps;

00:47:25

they are real

00:47:32

[music]

00:47:41

[music]

Description:

Альфа-Лизинг - простой и быстрый способ для предпринимателей приобрести технику с минимальным привлечением собственных средств: https://alfaleasing.ru/lp/pro-leasing/ «Ясно» — сервис онлайн консультаций с психологом. Скидка 20% по промокоду PEOPLE (до 30.07.23) при регистрации на первую сессию: https://app.yasno.live/vWlQ/people Люди, сегодня наш фильм буквально с края земли. Там дальше только вода: Баренцево море, Северный Ледовитый океан и Северный полюс. Мы – в Териберке. Это место стало гиперпопулярным после фильма Звягинцева «Левиафан». Сюда толпами приезжают туристы, чтобы увидеть вот эту нереальную красоту природы. И проникнуться хтонью и отчаянием русского севера. Но мало, кто знает, что здесь люди хранят в гаражах десятки литров бензина, потому что на весь посёлок нет ни одной заправки, чтобы закупиться всеми необходимыми продуктами и лекарствами. Или чтобы попасть, например, к профильному врачу, нужно ехать почти 200 километров в Мурманск. А ещё практически в каждом доме есть генератор, потому что из-за погоды, профилактических работ на ГЭС здесь иногда нет электричества. Это – Саша Сабынина и как люди живут из Териберки! Поддержать The Люди рублем: 💰Boosty: https://boosty.to/the_ludi?_1ld=3395117_0&_1lp=1&from=Infl_June22_The_Ludi_YT 💰Яндекс: https://money.yandex.ru/to/410018668361180 💰Paypal: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/Alyadov?country.x=GE&locale.x=en_US 💥Купить мерч The Люди: https://vidak.shop/catalog/collections/theludi (весь мир) https://vidak.me/catalog/collections/theludi (РФ) 👉The Люди в соцсетях: Лядов в telegram https://t.me/Theludi1 VK Антона Лядова: https://vk.com/id2733742 Подпишись на канал, чтобы не пропустить следующий выпуск https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwPzq5yQwczLmivBX8zq7Mw?sub_confirmation=1

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