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Video tags
Subtitles
Russian
00:00:00
[music]00:00:31
[music]00:00:37
[music]00:00:48
July 3rd began for us at two in the morning,00:00:51
everything is as usual, you wake up to the sound of the00:00:53
alarm clock and for the first few minutes00:00:55
you fight the desires, you just turn it off00:00:58
and bring it out for an hour and a half, God,00:01:01
maybe even for a day but in the end,00:01:03
you accept everything as an inevitable reality00:01:05
and begin to look for the strength within yourself to00:01:07
get out of your warm sleeping bag and00:01:09
plunge into the cold of the night.00:01:11
Before those who decide to do this first, they00:01:13
have an important task: you need to00:01:16
immediately light the burner to warm up00:01:17
the inside of the tent with a toy and collect it from the00:01:20
walls. managed to form during the00:01:22
night under your warm breath,00:01:24
usually the night temperature in the tent was00:01:26
about zero degrees, but as soon as everyone00:01:28
got out of their sleeping bags, started00:01:30
moving actively, breathing, preparing food, and00:01:32
the temperature very quickly rose to00:01:35
6-7 degrees above zero at 4 in the morning we00:01:39
finally left the base even walking in00:01:42
absolute darkness, the labyrinth of the glacier00:01:44
after all the previous exits already00:01:46
seemed so familiar that there was no00:01:48
need to peer into the darkness00:01:51
trying to see the yellow markers or00:01:53
check with the traffic police every 5 minutes, you00:01:56
just go on internal autopilot,00:01:58
only from time to time you jump over00:02:00
cracks in general boredom now we were dragging an00:02:04
additional 200 meters of00:02:06
rope with us; we didn’t even have any doubts that this time we would00:02:08
finally reach the second camp,00:02:10
but in parallel with00:02:13
this, somewhere inside us there was still00:02:16
a hope that the railings would hang00:02:18
right up to the third camp, which is located00:02:20
at an altitude of approximately 7 thousand meters, that’s where00:02:23
we would need00:02:25
this rope00:02:31
[music]00:02:49
approximately 50 minutes after00:02:51
leaving the base at an altitude of 5 thousand two hundred00:02:54
meters,00:02:55
Sanya suddenly announced that perhaps at this00:02:57
point his expedition ends, that00:03:00
he is absolutely they don’t get pleasure from everything that’s00:03:02
happening and he’s00:03:04
already pretty tired of all this and he made the00:03:07
final decision to return home,00:03:09
of course this news upset us, but00:03:12
no one tried to dissuade or convince him,00:03:14
so after taking away the public00:03:17
equipment he was carrying from the sleigh,00:03:18
we took a common photo as a souvenir00:03:21
they wished each other good luck, hugged each other and00:03:23
went their separate ways00:03:26
[music]00:03:39
and what I want to say regarding this00:03:42
situation Sanya made a strong and00:03:45
informed decision, a very small00:03:47
number of people in this world are able to00:03:49
do what they really want00:03:51
Sanya did not force his body and00:03:53
mind, but simply at some point, having assessed00:03:56
everything that was happening, he decided that he00:03:59
would feel more comfortable00:04:00
outside of this expedition and not paying00:04:03
attention to all external factors such00:04:06
as money spent, time, personal00:04:09
sporting ambitions, possible misunderstanding00:04:11
on the part of friends and relatives,00:04:12
you will learn something like, well, what are you doing? no kid,00:04:16
why did you leave? I had to be patient a little more,00:04:19
and so on, and so, paying00:04:22
attention to all this, he did what00:04:24
he wanted and that’s cool, and00:04:27
in fact, when a person does00:04:29
something through the force of bi list of00:04:31
interest and love, then most often00:04:33
he will do it through the ass and such a00:04:37
person will be less attentive to00:04:38
details, it will be difficult for him to00:04:40
concentrate on the final goal, and it’s00:04:42
one thing when a person is in00:04:44
such a state at an unloved job sitting00:04:47
in a cozy office, and another thing in the mountains where00:04:50
any little thing can cost you your health00:04:52
or your life,00:04:55
in the end we reached the first camp in00:04:57
six hours, during lunch we immediately00:05:00
found where we were. A big plus from the fact that00:05:02
Sanya left us was that we had more food,00:05:04
I remember exactly how we divided a 100-thunder00:05:07
bar of chocolate between four people. this00:05:09
happened before, but already for the three of us, we were pleasantly00:05:12
surprised to discover that a portion of 3300:05:15
grams of chocolate seemed simply huge00:05:17
and we finished the last crumbs with thoughts00:05:20
like oh damn, how full I was of00:05:23
chocolate,00:05:24
even the night before, we agreed with00:05:27
other climbers who at that moment00:05:29
I was in the first camp, leaving all00:05:31
together at 5 am to jointly hang up the00:05:33
ropes. The new agreed time00:05:36
only got out of the tent. We reacted to this00:05:38
with understanding and, I would even00:05:40
say, with a touch of humor, so despite00:05:42
our very small group,00:05:44
the plans remained unchanged to go to00:05:47
side of the second camp and fasten the railings,00:05:49
especially since the day before we talked with the00:05:51
exuberant Petrov, who returned to 100:05:54
ladies air-conditioning, he took her walks and he00:05:56
delighted us with the news that while grazing with cancer, he00:05:59
found our ropes and he had nothing to00:06:01
do and tied himself00:06:04
150 meters on the site on his own which is called00:06:06
Banana Ridge00:06:07
so the beginning has already been made00:06:09
[music]00:06:20
[laughter]00:06:26
[music]00:06:33
there00:06:39
[music]00:06:43
be it00:06:45
[music]00:07:03
the road to Sirocco took us only an00:07:04
hour and a half and the weather fully00:07:07
contributed to this - excellent visibility, light00:07:09
minus frozen snow and so on everything00:07:12
else, under the seroquel and the railings that we00:07:14
secured last time, I rested a little there,00:07:17
drinking tea with energy00:07:19
gels, picking up all these things that we had00:07:22
left early, we clinked them against the railings00:07:24
that were checked by a warrior and slowly00:07:27
trampled in the ferre00:07:29
[music]00:07:54
until the end of the films they even killed him quite00:07:56
quickly, and then Seryoga,00:07:58
armed with gentle pickets00:08:00
or before the dishes, went first to a rather00:08:03
unpleasant section, coped with the steepness of the00:08:05
slope of 65-70 degrees, it was unpleasant00:08:09
due to the fact that the sun had already risen00:08:11
quite high, the snow became limp and constantly00:08:13
ran away from under legs at one moment on this00:08:16
traverse, along with the snow, he went and the00:08:18
seryoga drove down 10-12 meters until00:08:21
the insurance caught him, and if it weren’t for00:08:23
the rope, having picked up speed, the seryoga would have00:08:26
turned into a bobsleigh sled and00:08:28
he would have had a pretty good chance of getting stuck on such a slope00:08:30
not enough, so00:08:32
we would have to look for it somewhere a00:08:34
kilometer and a half down the slope,00:08:36
it’s a pity that at that moment I didn’t record00:08:39
the video, I think it looked quite00:08:41
instructive, in general, don’t be lazy00:08:43
to insure yourself, there’s at least some00:08:45
chance of leaving even if you feel00:08:47
unwell super confident and you’re00:08:50
not scared at all, well, in general, somehow slowly we00:08:53
finally stomped up to the second camp,00:08:55
which is located at an altitude of 640000:08:58
meters under the wall of a large sirocco,00:09:00
the weather again began to deteriorate, an hour later00:09:03
Maria arrived, and after another 2 hours, other00:09:05
climbers remained We spent part of the day00:09:07
in the tent from time to time,00:09:10
only getting out of it to dig out the00:09:12
freshly fallen snow. Of course, the00:09:18
next day brought no improvements in terms of00:09:19
weather for me, although the forecasts00:09:22
today should have been clear and without00:09:23
precipitation, but in practice everything did not look00:09:26
so rosy; the snow fell quite00:09:28
a lot and it became obvious that the road to the00:09:30
third camp was now quite00:09:32
avalanche dangerous, so we had no00:09:34
choice but to go down and00:09:36
wait for a new weather window. I remember00:09:39
that on that day I was very00:09:41
bombed due to the unstable00:09:42
Pakistani weather, since I was00:09:45
almost completely sure that on this00:09:47
trip we would be able to set up a third camp,00:09:49
but the weather, as usual, was00:09:51
unpredictable;00:09:52
as a result, in a few hours, together00:09:55
with the wet snow, we went to the first camp,00:09:57
where we had a little snack, drank jelly,00:09:59
complained about the weather, somewhere in the depths of our00:10:01
souls, we envied Sanya, who00:10:03
was already on the way to civilization delicious00:10:06
rice, fresh meat, the Internet, beer00:10:09
and other joys of life, okay, I’ll get00:10:11
ahead a little and say that buying beer in00:10:14
Pakistan and any alcohol in general00:10:16
is a very difficult quest,00:10:18
but still we managed to find one00:10:20
life hack in Islamabad with which00:10:23
you could buy almost any00:10:24
alcohol and doing this is absolutely00:10:27
legal, but I’ll tell you about this later,00:10:30
just in case you want to spend a00:10:32
vacation in this wonderful country with a cheerful00:10:35
discussion of what Sanya will do00:10:37
first very when to descend into00:10:38
civilization, we set off towards00:10:40
our civilization, although for now it00:10:43
was only at the base camp00:10:45
[music]00:11:29
the road down would be nothing particularly interesting, I00:11:32
remember the monotonous trampling of fresh00:11:34
snow and jumping over a crack, arriving at the00:11:37
base camp a pleasant surprise was the words00:11:39
that our friends were there,00:11:41
who, like us, were driven down by bad00:11:43
weather, on the occasion of the meeting, Seryoga gave00:11:46
us 100 milliliters of alcohol, which before00:11:49
traveling to Pakistan, he very carefully00:11:51
poured with a specialist into empty bags of00:11:52
saline solution, and all because00:11:55
someone scared us that when entering00:11:57
Pakistan, border guards take away all the00:11:59
imported alcohol and if it’s in luggage and00:12:01
they see any container with a liquid, they may00:12:03
ask you to open it, or if something happens and there00:12:06
turns out to be something alcoholic, then most00:12:08
likely your expedition will pass absolutely00:12:10
soberly, however, like all of us,00:12:13
this option was not very suitable for us, so00:12:15
he came up with this method of transporting00:12:17
alcohol if there was someone at the border I asked00:12:21
the question that in these packages we would,00:12:23
of course, answer saline solution. On00:12:25
this occasion, I even specifically looked at00:12:27
how saline solution is translated in English00:12:29
games. We haven’t spent much00:12:31
time yet and have not become so severe00:12:33
as to drink pure alcohol, so we decided to00:12:36
brew sweet sweet tea with lemon. and00:12:38
pour in the 10000:12:40
milliliters we have, the whole thing as it00:12:46
should be, we had a snack of salam, no matter how00:12:49
insignificantly small the portion of alcohol may seem,00:12:51
but against the backdrop of the general fatigue of the altitude and a00:12:54
large amount of sugar in the tea, and the00:12:55
necessary result was achieved00:12:57
quite quickly for the night, we all00:12:59
showed up at in our tent00:13:01
and even for six people there00:13:03
was plenty of space there 4 am00:13:05
the boys went about their business aside00:13:07
coughed 100:13:09
well, we stayed in the base to00:13:11
recuperate a little before the next00:13:13
exit, which we were already quite seriously00:13:15
planning to do as assault00:13:17
[music] a00:13:21
day of rest for me As for a big00:13:23
coffee lover, it started out very well,00:13:25
the French lent me their geyser00:13:27
coffee maker,00:13:28
and since I love coffee00:13:30
prepared this way most of all,00:13:32
and during the expeditions I had already00:13:34
missed it, at that moment I felt00:13:36
super happy and00:13:38
finally accepted it for myself decision that during my00:13:40
next trip to the mountains I will not count00:13:42
grams and will definitely take a00:13:44
personal coffee maker with me00:13:46
since the day at the base promised to be00:13:48
boring as usual, everyone is trying to find00:13:50
at least some activity for themselves, for me00:13:53
such an activity was the global00:13:54
recount of the pharmacy that I purchased and for00:13:57
which I was responsible at the beginning of the00:13:59
expedition, the total weight of the first aid kit was 500:14:01
and 8 kilograms. During each trip00:14:04
to the mountains, I make small notes00:14:05
regarding the drugs that we00:14:08
use, for example, what was missing and00:14:10
next time we need to take more, what00:14:12
was not provided at all in the pharmacy,00:14:14
what is at altitude it works poorly and what works00:14:15
on the contrary is good, and so on, and I hope00:14:18
that with each new expedition the00:14:20
public pharmacy becomes more and more00:14:22
thoughtful and universal, I can00:14:25
say with confidence that next time00:14:26
I will give Augmentin, this is a00:14:29
broad-spectrum antibiotic at the rate of one full00:14:31
course of treatment per participant and the00:14:34
same applies to expectorants of00:14:35
type a cc,00:14:37
if we have more or less decided on the argument,00:14:40
then the shortage of cc made itself felt00:14:42
also that I would like to note this, pay00:14:46
attention to the storage conditions of ampoules, for00:14:48
example, dexamethasone must be stored00:14:50
at a temperature of 5 to 25 degrees00:14:53
Celsius and this means that if the contents of the00:14:56
ampoule freeze, the properties of the00:14:58
drug change after a freeze-thaw cycle,00:15:01
the effectiveness may decrease sharply, and00:15:03
after the administration of such an injection there is a00:15:06
possibility of not always00:15:08
predictable side effects, in general,00:15:10
store the ampoules correctly, for00:15:12
example, like an earring in a box00:15:14
hangs on your neck and thus00:15:15
your ampoules will always be warm and00:15:18
cozy00:15:19
after yesterday's snowfall, the entire base was00:15:22
evenly covered with snow. To be honest,00:15:25
it didn’t inspire much optimism. How much00:15:27
snow fell in the region of seven thousand, one00:15:29
could only guess, but it00:15:31
was obvious that the road to camp 3 and to the very00:15:34
top it will be long and you will have to endure00:15:36
a lot and they are changing traditions, I decided to00:15:39
take a walk among the guests to find out the elbow and00:15:41
plans to collect the weather forecasts available to people00:15:44
so that then I can try to come up with something00:15:46
in between, if possible, shoot00:15:47
some expectorants and00:15:49
just chat00:15:51
from your camp, which was located00:15:53
last on the moraine until the very first00:15:55
Bulgarian-Polish camp, it took00:15:57
no more than 10 minutes to walk at a measured pace,00:16:00
but it always took me about an hour to overcome this distance,00:16:05
just passing by someone so as not to drink00:16:07
tea with him and not talk about it00:16:08
was simply impossible for everyone in the world and that’s00:16:11
cool and okay climbers they always00:16:13
have something to talk about but the local00:16:15
Pakistani guys who worked on various00:16:18
expeditions as cooks and liaison officers00:16:20
constantly asked questions about where00:16:23
I came from, what I do, they asked me to00:16:26
tell something about their country about for myself00:16:28
and my family, and so on, and it was00:16:31
really interesting, and at00:16:33
some point it even seemed to me that the00:16:34
visiting climbers are for00:16:37
Pakistanis who live in the poor00:16:39
northern regions of the country00:16:40
one of the few sources of information00:16:42
about their appearance;00:16:46
having come to visit the accordion, I found out that he was00:16:48
tomorrow is going to go up to00:16:50
try to get to the top,00:16:52
my persuasion is for him to sit in the base00:16:54
one day longer, wait until we00:16:56
rest and we are all together, you00:16:58
attempted an assault, it didn’t work, the00:17:00
warrior likes to walk on his own, I00:17:03
understand him perfectly well, the only negative is00:17:05
that that00:17:06
you have to traverse deep00:17:08
snow yourself and doing it alone is not at all00:17:10
easy00:17:11
[music] the00:17:21
next day we spent almost entirely00:17:23
repacking and equipment and00:17:25
food because of00:17:26
leaving it did not become obvious that00:17:29
we still had quite a lot of food, the00:17:31
only problem was that that all the food that00:17:33
was intended for the base camp was00:17:35
absolutely not pleasing; most of00:17:38
the diet consisted of tasteless dried00:17:40
vegetables and dried meat and fish, lard crackers,00:17:44
some absolutely non-calorie porridges and00:17:46
something else, the most interesting thing that in the00:17:49
fall of 2016 we almost We00:17:52
also ate at the Manaslu base camp00:17:54
and then we all enjoyed it with a bang, but00:17:57
now the situation was radically00:17:59
different and in fact this is quite a00:18:01
big problem when, while sitting at the base,00:18:04
you feel hungry, you start thinking00:18:06
about eating and involuntarily00:18:09
fall into depression because you understand00:18:11
that the food you have00:18:13
absolutely does not bring any00:18:15
pleasure, even despite the fact that the00:18:17
portions have increased, but the variety00:18:19
still remains quite meager. In00:18:22
general, I will say that after this trip to the00:18:24
mountains I came to the clear conclusion that00:18:27
variety in form is incredibly important,00:18:29
even though we try to organize our00:18:31
Expeditions are budget-friendly, but it’s not worth saving on food; it’s00:18:35
better to spend an extra 100 bucks upon arrival in Pakistan or Nepal to00:18:39
buy yourself an additional variety of tasty00:18:41
goodies; spend another 100 bucks to have it00:18:43
all delivered to the base camp;00:18:46
perhaps the only thing I really00:18:48
liked from our diet00:18:49
these are dried lemons and dried olives,00:18:52
next time during a long00:18:54
expedition I will definitely take them with00:18:56
me and I also want to tell you about00:18:59
one cool thing that I discovered for myself00:19:00
before the trip to the mountains and00:19:03
decided to test this thing thoroughly in00:19:05
high altitude conditions,00:19:06
it’s about powdered food based on soy00:19:09
and lentils00:19:10
called silent, in a nutshell00:19:13
the silent is a powdered product that is00:19:16
dissolved in water and designed, according to00:19:18
its creator, to completely replace00:19:20
traditional food and contains absolutely00:19:23
all the substances necessary for the body; it is00:19:26
somewhat similar to the protein shakes00:19:28
that people eat pitching for a set,00:19:30
except for proteins, it contains00:19:32
fats and00:19:34
proteins and carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins and00:19:37
various microelements in sufficient quantities for life, most often at00:19:40
altitudes of 7000 meters, climbers have a00:19:43
rather poor appetite and sometimes you just00:19:45
have to force yourself to eat until00:19:47
the evening, sitting in a tent, you something then00:19:49
you nibble on it, but the amount of food you eat00:19:52
will not be enough to00:19:54
fully restore the calories spent during the00:19:56
day, and this is where00:19:58
silent comes to the rescue. what are the advantages that I have identified for myself? you do00:20:01
n’t need to cook, just mix00:20:03
with water, shake and drink, you can mix00:20:06
the drink for a whole day and every hour00:20:08
or 2 take a few sips,00:20:11
thereby getting rid of the feeling of hunger and00:20:13
quickly getting some kind of energy supply,00:20:16
depending on how00:20:18
difficult the coming day should be,00:20:20
you can prepare a portion with any00:20:22
required amount of calories, the taste00:20:24
and consistency of Soylent is like pancake batter,00:20:27
I can’t say that it has a pleasant00:20:29
taste, but drinking it is much easier than00:20:33
trying to force something into yourself when you have a complete lack of appetite;00:20:35
in general, I especially00:20:38
liked it, but still I would like to00:20:40
test it several more times in the00:20:42
mountains under different loads and with different00:20:44
dosages in order to finally00:20:46
formulate opinions about it and everything that I said00:20:49
above was not calls for its00:20:51
use, I’m just sharing with you00:20:53
what I myself liked somewhere at the00:20:55
top, this is a very individual question and00:20:57
I’m sure that Soylent will00:20:59
not go far for everyone it needs to be tested00:21:02
in advance and if it was an00:21:04
unpaid advertisement00:21:05
silent didn’t pay anything unfortunately the00:21:09
rest of the day we were preparing for00:21:12
tomorrow’s release all the00:21:13
forecasts received plus or minus said that for the00:21:15
next 3-4 days the weather would be good and00:21:18
practically without precipitation, of course,00:21:21
guided by previous experience and they were00:21:23
skeptical about this information,00:21:24
but still they quite seriously00:21:27
planned to get to camp 3, put up00:21:29
a tent there to rest, and at about one in the00:21:32
morning the next day go up and00:21:34
try to go to the top, especially since it00:21:37
was not clear when the next time would be there will be00:21:39
such a long weather window, and00:21:41
in fact, we didn’t have00:21:43
much time left, especially considering that in the event of a00:21:46
successful climb to the mountains Broom 2, we00:21:49
would like to try another climb on the00:21:51
roof of Broom One, so for now00:21:53
we went to bed early with all the necessary equipment00:21:56
sleep in the hope that at least this time00:21:58
the weather will be on our side and we will00:22:00
be able to implement everything plannedDescription:
💰Экономь на покупках в интернете c кэшбэк-сервиcом Letyshops: http://bit.ly/Лети-Шопс ❤️ Поддержать меня и мой канал: https://secure.wayforpay.com/payment/GornayaBolezn ________________ Инстаграм: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser Телеграмм канал: https://t.me/GornayaBolezn Фейсбук: https://www.facebook.com/unsupportedbrowser ________________ Фильм про восхождение на Гашербрум 2 (Пакистан). Это тринадцатый по высоте восьмитысячник мира, высота которого 8035 метров. Гора находится в Кашмире, в контролируемых Пакистаном Северных территориях на границе с Китаем. Расположена вершина в горной системе Каракорум, и является частью хребта под названием Балторо-Музтаг.
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